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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, since the Coyote inlet/outlet look identical to my 3.7L, I can at least suggest a radiator....look for an aftermarket aluminum one from a 66 T-Bird:



The height is low enough to tuck under the radiator support(note: the measurment you are looking for the the core height, the overall height is taller because of brackets you may have to cut off) and the inlet/outlet are where you need them. Yes, you would need to cut the support open to maximize airflow and yes, you would need to use a similar expansion tank system to S197 mustangs(or do like me and come up with something on your own):

View attachment 823524

I actually used a SN95 radiator, but the same concept, I just learned the T-bird unit would fit bitter after I had already installed the SN95 unit
Thanks for the input. My current radiator is that configuration but much smaller(direct 66 replacement for 5.0 swap). Its a Ron Davis radiator with 2 1" rows. I would like to run as large as I can, but the airbox needs to go up there somewhere. I wonder if with the right fan I could get away with keeping the one I have. Not sure if its enough with AC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Since the shock towers are already gone anyway, enjoy your 8000 rpm! What the hell is going on with your shifter? I'm not sure if I hate it or want it?
It’s a “restomod” shifter mustangs plus made back in the day. Makes driving super comfortable and the throw shorter.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think your car is almost perfect as it is. Love the stance. Love that rear end shot. Love the color.

Hate the shifter. That's why it's almost perfect lol.
It may go away. Depends on where the t56 shifter is located.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the shifter has to go away PM me. If it actually works.
It works well. I’ll let you know. It’s going to be a while. My wife is giving me a monthly allowance and if I use a new crate 3rd gen it’s about $10k😳. Oh, and DONT SELL YOUR CAR! It’s one of my favorites on here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a close friend doing a Coyote / 10R80 in a classic bronco (also in Phx). He convinced me that buying the new Coyote long block would come out around 1K cheaper due to not paying for parts that wouldn't be used.

Here's what he bought:
Ford Performance Gen 3 Coyote Engine - Long Block | M-6006-M50C (lmr.com)

Not sure if tat's helpful as I haven't seen anyone here buy a long block vs. complete, but it makes for an interesting discussion. Very cool build. I can't offer much, but I'm not far away if you need a second pair of hands.
I would think it would be hard to find an intake and injectors with a tb alone. I’ll look into it though. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The Gen-3 is in the house!!!!!
Congrats! :p
So enormous. This is only the second time in my life I have felt overwhelmed working on a car. The first was the mini tubs. Going to be a long ride. Thank goodness I have all of you with your past experience to rely on. Now I need to figure out a good way to pick this thing up because I had no way to do it. Me and three neighbors took it off the pallet by hand.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Do you have access to an engine hoist? You basically have two lifting options on the engine. There are large steel adapters that mount - one on the rear of the passenger head the other on the front side of the drivers head. There are also intake manifold plates that bolt on with the manifold off etc. I have both and found the manifold plate by far the best. The below from MMR is one of the best (1/2 inch thick billet aluminum $70). Having the intake off is also best if you’re making multiple fit tests, in and out etc. The manifold plate will lift both engine and trans assembled.
View attachment 828196
I do have access to a hoist and was leaning towards an intake plate. As much as I don’t want to take the intake off, it seems like having it out of the way for test fitting would be the best way to avoid breaking anything. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Spending hours and hours researching and haven't been able to find the cooling requirements for the coyote. I have a direct fit Ron Davis aluminum radiator with 2 1" cores that I would like to use but I'm not sure if its enough. The hose orientation it right though. I live in Phoenix and need A/C. What are your thoughts? The factory GT radiator doesn't appear to have any more volume and saving the space in my tiny engine compartment would be nice. Not to mention it has 1200 miles on it, its an $800 radiator, and I already have it. Thoughts?
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Nice looking radiator but as you may be thinking - it may not work for you - or, as you stated size/space and every thing else the swap requires may take you a different direction etc.

Two key items/requirements many have is both an engine oil cooler and power steering (PS) cooler. ( Is that provisions for a trans “or“ PS cooler in the bottom of yours?)(I just remembered you may run elect PS as well)

It is a trans cooler so I could use it as a PS cooler.

Both can be done external to the radiator but space and extra plumbing can be an issue. I looked for the largest radiator that would fit and had both the PS and engine oil cooler integrated into the radiator etc. The PS was a given. The engine oil cooler I could have gone stand alone, installed in front but my future dream of an intercooler “requirement“ 😜 had me wanting to preserve space out front and minimize plumbing in that area. I settled on a C&R radiator W/both coolers built in - it’s actually sized / designed for a 67 or newer Mustang application but given the radiator support mods I already had planned, a few more minor adjustments to ensure fitment were easy.

I have no plans on a intercooler so my plan was to find a -12 oil cooler that would go in front of the radiator.


On the other hand, I would suggest calling Ford Performance. Your current radiator may be fine in regards to required cooling ability and Coyote requirements. With your IFS and Gen3 are you forced into an external oil filter and cooler or can you remotely use the Coyote oil filter mount/cooler unit? I feel that is a stupid question but asked…. 🤓
- If your plan was a remote oil filter and oil cooler from the get go, you could go that route and use your current radiator. HOWEVER, when plumbing your PS and oil filter/cooler consider doing it in a way where if you had to go to a larger radiator (cooling proved insufficient), the necessary plumbing or location adjustments were painless or at least minimal cost etc.. Basically engineer/mod-in some flexibility if needed etc.

Good idea. I will call FP tomorrow and see if I can email them pics of the radiator. Maybe I'll give PBH a call too. I am still torn between an electric volvo PS pump and the integrated pump with the vintage air front runner kit. Either way, my rack will remain hydraulic.
I will be running a remote filter and plan to set it up like @Boss5Oh but run it to the external cooler through bulkheads in the core support. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Here is what I used in my 70 Mach 1. C & R Racing's 1967-1970 Mustang Radiator Module 15-11554 features built-in power steering cooler, engine oil cooler, with dual 11-inch Spal electric fans for superior cooling. The inlets and outlets on the radiator are designed to work with engine swaps of newer Ford Coyote and Modular engines. Said to be good to 1000 HP, so appropriate for boosted builds too. The radiator is very wide, I actually had to make a relief in the front inner fender apron on the DS for the lower radiator hose.
When trying to integrate all the features one should have, not a lot of choices out there in a off the shelf design. You can always have a custom configuration made up, but up goes the price too.
In my case the radiator covers the engine coolant, engine oil, and PS cooling functions. Additionally I have the Vintage Air Condenser and a Ford Racing Trans cooler for the 6R80 up front too.
And here I was thinking my old radiator was expensive... It is an amazing package, I just want to try to kind of stick to my budget so my wife doesn't murder me. I know budgets and coyote swaps don't really mix but I don't want to tell her that. I actually found a guy in Texas running my same basic radiator on his swap and he has not had an issue even in the summer. He said it has never exceeded 195*. He doesn't have AC yet though. So many decisions. I need to stop looking at parts of the build I'm not dealing with at this moment because my head is spinning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well that’s interesting. I was actually wondering where that took place since the manifold looked very similar to the Gen-2. That also answers my question regarding what that silver/plumbing looking unit on the passenger valve cover was all about…

Thanks for sharing Angry,

PS - I used to joke with my wife when looking at parts. I would tell her if the words “Coyote Swap” were anywhere on the page, all parts listed were twice the cost they should be….

KJ
No problem.
Yep. It’s like the difference in flowers at the grocery store and flowers for a wedding. Whatever you do, don’t type in coyote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Plate is on. Seems like it should be clearance for the DI rail bolts. There is about a .060 gap between the plate and the heads because the bolts stick above the intake plain. Other than that it fit well. Now I’m debating removing the wire harness entirely. The engine mounts are in the mail somewhere in Canada and are delayed by “uncontrollable events“ (UPS) but I should be test fitting in the next week or two.
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