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@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

19096 Views 371 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  pdubbb1
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Yesterday I modified the ford racing engine stand to mount to the engine with the bellhousing, starter and motor mounts installed. I also started working on putting fittings together to have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp sender on the engine.
AND...you pushed your car outside IN THE RAIN!!!! You don't care about it anymore!!! /Drama :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Did some lines today. Not as much fun as I remember 😂. Also sorted where my ac lines were going in and began to come to terms with the fact I will be grinding away on my new block yet again to fit heater lines under the manifold. @Kjsmitty was right yet again!
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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
I was looking at things i still have left to do today when i was under the dash again sorting out wiring. I'm seriously considering calling classic tube and having them send me pre-bent stainless lines. This makes me consider it even more.. :LOL:
Almost 3 hours into the fronts alone. A lot of that is that I’m not very good at it, so your results may vary… Dreading the fuel lines a bit.
 

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Did some lines today. Not as much fun as I remember 😂. Also sorted where my ac lines were going in and began to come to terms with the fact I will be grinding away on my new block yet again to fit heater lines under the manifold. @Kjsmitty was right yet again! View attachment 857225
View attachment 857226
Your brake lines look great! There is just so much electrical and plumbing work going on with the Coyote it’s a bonus to be able to hide some of it. So far the “under the manifold” path has worked well.. 👍 I only ground a little on the drivers side if I remember right. 👍. I’m actually worried if I instal a Whipple I’ll have to re do all of it.. 😥

in my opinion where ever you source your Coyote crate/engine from,, it should come with a four inch angle grinder…. It’s a required accessory. 😜

PS - are using stainless or other for fuel and or brake lines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Your brake lines look great! There is just so much electrical and plumbing work going on with the Coyote it’s a bonus to be able to hide some of it. So far the “under the manifold” path has worked well.. 👍 I only ground a little on the drivers side if I remember right. 👍. I’m actually worried if I instal a Whipple I’ll have to re do all of it.. 😥

in my opinion where ever you source your Coyote crate/engine from,, it should come with a four inch angle grinder…. It’s a required accessory. 😜

PS - are using stainless or other for fuel and or brake lines?
Nicopp lines for brakes and fuel. A lot easier to bend. I actually aquired 1/2” stainless from scrap at work to use but ended up buying 3/8” nicopp to replace it.
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Awesome work! I noticed you “crossed over” under the manifold.. Good idea. I ended up having a cross over on the inside of the fire-wall due to flow direction and where I had my hot water flow valve.

NICOP is definitely the way to go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
Awesome work! I noticed you “crossed over” under the manifold.. Good idea. I ended up having a cross over on the inside of the fire-wall due to flow direction and where I had my hot water flow valve.

NICOP is definitely the way to go!
Thank you.

I crossed over because I’m going to end up putting my valve in the same place as you. I have not drilled the holes in the firewall or mounted the valve yet, so it may end up not crossed over. Did you go through your firewall right where they came out of the back of the manifold or was there more sorcery involved? Your heater holes look like they are closer together than mine will be. Thanks for your help as always.
 

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True, my holes are right next to each other. Initially I had a 2 port billet bulkhead adapter from Vintage Air and I had drilled the holes for that bulkhead prior to paint. The size and limited styles of the VA fittings/tubing required for that double bulkhead proved unusable. I ended up with AN fittings and individual pass through bulkheads. The centered location did work well for the heater box side connection. However a bit wider should work fine and “may” facilitate a straight shot/connection out the back of the engine. Given the space I had you can see the loops I added to the hoses to facilitate the 90 degree fittings into the bulkheads. Shorter loops/hose wasn’t going to work given the hoses limited flexibility. And it provided some flex between engine movement and body.
You may have already but fab up your heater valve location /expected inside plumbing and hang your heater box so you can determine best bulkhead hole location - facilitating both engine side and inside etc. Just need to ensure they are fairly accessible to get a wrench on etc.

I may have already posted the below but that’s the best photo I had where you can see the hoses / bulkheads. Then on the heater box you can see how the plumbing worked out facilitating the close together, low-center firewall holes.

(“Sorcery” - that definitely applies during a Coyote swap..)😄
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Discussion Starter · #233 · (Edited)
Started getting my oil and water sensors locations sorted. I’m setting it up to use:
-oil pressure for the nvu gauges
-water temp nvu
-factory oil pressure the computer uses
-oil temp autometer in the glove box

I am not super happy about how close the oil pressure sender is to the motor mount or the fact that I had to use 2 45 degree fittings in a row to get it there. Not sure what else to do.

I also bought a fitting to prime the engine from the factory sender port using a 5/16 hose and a bug sprayer. Anyone know if I can do that now and start it in 4 month or if I should wait? Certainly easier to do it without the engine in the car.
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Also need a tach signal. I want to use the wire on the front coil pack on the drivers side. Any of you coyote guys know which is the signal wire?
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Started getting my oil and water sensors locations sorted. I’m setting it up to use:
-oil pressure for the nvu gauges
-water temp nvu
-factory oil pressure the computer uses
-oil temp autometer in the glove box

I am not super happy about how close the oil pressure sender is to the motor mount or the fact that I had to use 2 45 degree fittings in a row to get it there. Not sure what else to do.

I also bought a fitting to prime the engine from the factory sender port using a 5/16 hose and a bug sprayer. Anyone know if I can do that now and start it in 4 month or if I should wait? Certainly easier to do it without the engine in the car.
View attachment 857332

Also need a tach signal. I want to use the wire on the front coil pack on the drivers side. Any of you coyote guys know which is the signal wire? View attachment 857334
I had the same issue with multiple oil pressure senders facilitated by multi funky angle fittings.. I used sealer on the threads and all and it’s currently my only leak…. 😠 And needless to say it’s a pain to get to them once headers, steering rack, column and linkage are installed…
Coils: Double check but I believe all your coils will have a purple common wire - so the other is your signal.
HOWEVER - that approach may not work for you and your gauge. I had to utilize a tach adapter even though my gauge instructions stated otherwise (Marshal gauges). Boss50 had a similar nifty device that he found.
- I would prime real well just prior to start. If you do it now it wouldn’t hurt however. Then just hit it again prior to making it rumble..👍
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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
I had the same issue with multiple oil pressure senders facilitated by multi funky angle fittings.. I used sealer on the threads and all and it’s currently my only leak…. 😠 And needless to say it’s a pain to get to them once headers, steering rack, column and linkage are installed…
Coils: Double check but I believe all your coils will have a purple common wire - so the other is your signal.
HOWEVER - that approach may not work for you and your gauge. I had to utilize a tach adapter even though my gauge instructions stated otherwise (Marshal gauges). Boss50 had a similar nifty device that he found.
- I would prime real well just prior to start. If you do it now it wouldn’t hurt however. Then just hit it again prior to making it rumble..👍
View attachment 857339
I think my instructions say I won’t need it either. I assume a coyote is considered COP. Here are my instructions.
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Obviously things are snug in your engine bay, but could you mount the sensors somewhere else and plumb a line to a manifold for them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
I'm curious as to why you'd want the shock tower filler panels removable. Header install? Seems like that would be an area where you could gain some chassis stiffening back by welding the panels in. Regardless, the work looks great and the removable radiator support is smart. Can you share a pic of the back side of those fasteners?
Took pics of the view for you.
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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
In the last couple weeks I have been welding and cleaning up the tunnel and firewall area. Also moved the fuel line exit in the trunk from the drivers side to the passenger and welded the old holes shut. Then pulled and clocked the fuel pump as well as verifying it was a walbro 255. Should be plenty of fuel as long as I don’t do the e85 thing. Engine and transmission went back in today for the 30th time and hopefully the second to last for a while.
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