AND...you pushed your car outside IN THE RAIN!!!! You don't care about it anymore!!! /Drama
@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.
Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)
Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)
T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)
Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.
Ford control pack
Flywheel
www.americanmuscle.com
Clutch
www.americanmuscle.com
Pilot
www.americanmuscle.com
Trans tunnel
www.tinmanfabrication.com
Driveshaft will be Sot
Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC
Headers are TBD
Oil cooler nonsense is TBD
Radiator and fan are TBD
Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:
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Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)
Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)
T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)
Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.
Ford control pack
Flywheel
Ford Performance Mustang Billet Steel Flywheel; 8 Bolt M-6375-G46A (96-04 Mustang Cobra, Mach 1; 99-Mid 01 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Peace of Mind. When replacing your clutch you have two options, resurfacing your old stock flywheel, or getting a brand new flywheel. A new flywh
www.americanmuscle.com
Clutch
Ford Performance Mustang Organic Clutch Kit; 26 Spline M-7560-T46 (96-04 V8 Mustang w/ Tremec Transmission) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Enhances Overall Performance. If you want to add more power to your already impressive Ford Mustang V8, then the Ford Performance Clutch is your
www.americanmuscle.com
Pilot
Ford Performance Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing M-7600-B (96-17 Mustang GT; 07-12 Mustang GT500) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Extra Insurance. To extend the life of your Mustangs new performance clutch it is highly recommended to replace that old and worn out stock pilot
www.americanmuscle.com
Trans tunnel
1965-1973 Mustang Transmission Tunnel Panel
Parts for Engine-Transmission Swaps & Chassis Upgrades
www.tinmanfabrication.com
Driveshaft will be Sot
Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC
Headers are TBD
Oil cooler nonsense is TBD
Radiator and fan are TBD
Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:
221 - 240 of 456 Posts
First time the car has been wet in the 4 years I have had it.AND...you pushed your car outside IN THE RAIN!!!! You don't care about it anymore!!! /Drama
I was looking at things i still have left to do today when i was under the dash again sorting out wiring. I'm seriously considering calling classic tube and having them send me pre-bent stainless lines. This makes me consider it even more..
Almost 3 hours into the fronts alone. A lot of that is that I’m not very good at it, so your results may vary… Dreading the fuel lines a bit.I was looking at things i still have left to do today when i was under the dash again sorting out wiring. I'm seriously considering calling classic tube and having them send me pre-bent stainless lines. This makes me consider it even more..
Nicopp lines for brakes and fuel. A lot easier to bend. I actually aquired 1/2” stainless from scrap at work to use but ended up buying 3/8” nicopp to replace it.
True, my holes are right next to each other. Initially I had a 2 port billet bulkhead adapter from Vintage Air and I had drilled the holes for that bulkhead prior to paint. The size and limited styles of the VA fittings/tubing required for that double bulkhead proved unusable. I ended up with AN fittings and individual pass through bulkheads. The centered location did work well for the heater box side connection. However a bit wider should work fine and “may” facilitate a straight shot/connection out the back of the engine. Given the space I had you can see the loops I added to the hoses to facilitate the 90 degree fittings into the bulkheads. Shorter loops/hose wasn’t going to work given the hoses limited flexibility. And it provided some flex between engine movement and body.
You may have already but fab up your heater valve location /expected inside plumbing and hang your heater box so you can determine best bulkhead hole location - facilitating both engine side and inside etc. Just need to ensure they are fairly accessible to get a wrench on etc.
I may have already posted the below but that’s the best photo I had where you can see the hoses / bulkheads. Then on the heater box you can see how the plumbing worked out facilitating the close together, low-center firewall holes.
(“Sorcery” - that definitely applies during a Coyote swap..)😄
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You may have already but fab up your heater valve location /expected inside plumbing and hang your heater box so you can determine best bulkhead hole location - facilitating both engine side and inside etc. Just need to ensure they are fairly accessible to get a wrench on etc.
I may have already posted the below but that’s the best photo I had where you can see the hoses / bulkheads. Then on the heater box you can see how the plumbing worked out facilitating the close together, low-center firewall holes.
(“Sorcery” - that definitely applies during a Coyote swap..)😄
Started getting my oil and water sensors locations sorted. I’m setting it up to use:
-oil pressure for the nvu gauges
-water temp nvu
-factory oil pressure the computer uses
-oil temp autometer in the glove box
I am not super happy about how close the oil pressure sender is to the motor mount or the fact that I had to use 2 45 degree fittings in a row to get it there. Not sure what else to do.
I also bought a fitting to prime the engine from the factory sender port using a 5/16 hose and a bug sprayer. Anyone know if I can do that now and start it in 4 month or if I should wait? Certainly easier to do it without the engine in the car.
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Also need a tach signal. I want to use the wire on the front coil pack on the drivers side. Any of you coyote guys know which is the signal wire?
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Electrical wiring Gas]()
-oil pressure for the nvu gauges
-water temp nvu
-factory oil pressure the computer uses
-oil temp autometer in the glove box
I am not super happy about how close the oil pressure sender is to the motor mount or the fact that I had to use 2 45 degree fittings in a row to get it there. Not sure what else to do.
I also bought a fitting to prime the engine from the factory sender port using a 5/16 hose and a bug sprayer. Anyone know if I can do that now and start it in 4 month or if I should wait? Certainly easier to do it without the engine in the car.
Also need a tach signal. I want to use the wire on the front coil pack on the drivers side. Any of you coyote guys know which is the signal wire?
I had the same issue with multiple oil pressure senders facilitated by multi funky angle fittings.. I used sealer on the threads and all and it’s currently my only leak…. 😠 And needless to say it’s a pain to get to them once headers, steering rack, column and linkage are installed…
Coils: Double check but I believe all your coils will have a purple common wire - so the other is your signal.
HOWEVER - that approach may not work for you and your gauge. I had to utilize a tach adapter even though my gauge instructions stated otherwise (Marshal gauges). Boss50 had a similar nifty device that he found.
- I would prime real well just prior to start. If you do it now it wouldn’t hurt however. Then just hit it again prior to making it rumble..👍
I think my instructions say I won’t need it either. I assume a coyote is considered COP. Here are my instructions.
In the last couple weeks I have been welding and cleaning up the tunnel and firewall area. Also moved the fuel line exit in the trunk from the drivers side to the passenger and welded the old holes shut. Then pulled and clocked the fuel pump as well as verifying it was a walbro 255. Should be plenty of fuel as long as I don’t do the e85 thing. Engine and transmission went back in today for the 30th time and hopefully the second to last for a while.
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221 - 240 of 456 Posts
