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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
Got the fuse box mounted inspired by @Huntingky as well as sorted most of the under dash ac and heater routing. Will need some aluminum welded to finish. Hopefully this weekend.
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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
You're not supposed to be taking stuff off! Don't do like I keep doing and removing more than you're adding!

But progress is still progress! We'll be out wheelin' these piles sooner or later!
I know. The while I’m at it nonsense needs to stop!
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Stripped it and added some gussets to the lower control arm support area. Also settled on mounting locations for my dryer and battery distribution block.
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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
Dash is blacked out. Seemed with my plans for my interior it would be easier. I’m a little sad about it but it’s probably best. Also started the tin foil process that I promised myself I’d never do again after my 67.
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Discussion Starter · #250 · (Edited)
Battery cable has been ran.
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I also started putting things back in the dash and eliminating wiring that was no longer needed.
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Plugged this in for fun.
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65 Coupe / Family owned since 21 APR 1964
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OK,,,
Thats some serious wrong right there!!
Rewiring the under dash area is supposed to be numerous hours laying on your back, kinked and bent neck, at least one ear torn from getting caught on the brake peddle, moments of fear when your arm gets wedged/stuck and you feel like you’re going to be trapped for hours. Wire sheath in your eyes while stripping over head, burnt marks from solder failing on your cheek and once you’re done cussing from pain, you realize you forgot to put the heat shrink on first,,,….. The list is long but it’s a right of passage…

Cheater! 😜
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
OK,,,
Thats some serious wrong right there!!
Rewiring the under dash area is supposed to be numerous hours laying on your back, kinked and bent neck, at least one ear torn from getting caught on the brake peddle, moments of fear when your arm gets wedged/stuck and you feel like you’re going to be trapped for hours. Wire sheath in your eyes while stripping over head, burnt marks from solder failing on your cheek and once you’re done cussing from pain, you realize you forgot to put the heat shrink on first,,,….. The list is long but it’s a right of passage…

Cheater! 😜
Ha ha true but instead I’m risking my sound deadener starting on fire so I don’t have to deal with that. Seems worth the risk to me😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Working on buttoning up behind the dash. The evaporator is in and wired. Got to turn the blower on. Most of the wiring is done under the dash including for the control pack. Just needs taped and tidying up.
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New mass backed carpet kit actually fits pretty well. Not perfect but good enough for me.
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I want to get the cowl on!!!
 

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Just thinking out loud...before you weld those in, you could run a string between two points, say the cowl and frame rail and then put a floor jack under the front crossmember and apply tension and see if slack is created in the string, and then repeat the test after they are welded in. I think that would be a cool test to prove that your reinforcements worked as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Just thinking out loud...before you weld those in, you could run a string between two points, say the cowl and frame rail and then put a floor jack under the front crossmember and apply tension and see if slack is created in the string, and then repeat the test after they are welded in. I think that would be a cool test to prove that your reinforcements worked as expected.
I could try that. I doubt it would create slack. The front sub frame is quite rigid (sf connectors and torque boxes). They will certainly help tosional rigidity once I tie the two sides together and into the cowl. Two 1/2” lugs will be welded to the inside of each bar and will protrude into the engine bay.
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