Ha ha true but instead I’m risking my sound deadener starting on fire so I don’t have to deal with that. Seems worth the risk to me😂OK,,,
Thats some serious wrong right there!!
Rewiring the under dash area is supposed to be numerous hours laying on your back, kinked and bent neck, at least one ear torn from getting caught on the brake peddle, moments of fear when your arm gets wedged/stuck and you feel like you’re going to be trapped for hours. Wire sheath in your eyes while stripping over head, burnt marks from solder failing on your cheek and once you’re done cussing from pain, you realize you forgot to put the heat shrink on first,,,….. The list is long but it’s a right of passage…
I could try that. I doubt it would create slack. The front sub frame is quite rigid (sf connectors and torque boxes). They will certainly help tosional rigidity once I tie the two sides together and into the cowl. Two 1/2” lugs will be welded to the inside of each bar and will protrude into the engine bay.Just thinking out loud...before you weld those in, you could run a string between two points, say the cowl and frame rail and then put a floor jack under the front crossmember and apply tension and see if slack is created in the string, and then repeat the test after they are welded in. I think that would be a cool test to prove that your reinforcements worked as expected.