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@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

19083 Views 371 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  pdubbb1
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Great idea! Did you ever see this build? This guy basically took what you are thinking to the extreme:


You can see the mounts for the engine "cage" in this pic:


Might give you some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
Great idea! Did you ever see this build? This guy basically took what you are thinking to the extreme:


You can see the mounts for the engine "cage" in this pic:


Might give you some ideas.
Yep. That’s @digitalsolo. Exactly where the idea came from. Crazy build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 · (Edited)
Today I hung the ugly vents and plumbed them to the evap except for the driver side which needs to go over the wiper bracket on the cowl. It was a huge pain in the a$$ without a cowl on the car. Props to all of you who do it under your dash. If it ever needs to come out, I’m not sure how that’s going to happen

Hung obd2 under the dash.

I cleaned up the wiring as good as I care to. I opted to not tape everything shut for easier access in the future. I’m using an electrical bulkhead in the drivers fender well to power everything except the control pack and ac.

I cleaned and painted and welded some crap on Tuesday because I didn’t feel like doing the things I was supposed to from my list.

Now I’m trying to figure out what to do about an inertia switch. I was going to put it in the trunk on the negative side of the fuel pump but I’m afraid the draw is too high. May put it on the accessory wire from the ignition switch of the control pack instead. I don’t feel like putting a relay underneath the package tray. It would be redundant because of the control packs relay.

List is getting shorter before the cowl install. 3 items left. I’m relying on a friend that’s helping for free on one of those items and it’s the front end support. The mock up is on seamed tubing. He needs to bend both sides out of DOM and then he’s going to tig them in. He’s a busy guy and that’s a couple days of work so we’ll see how long it takes.


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Discussion Starter · #267 · (Edited)
Tacked in to locate the lugs and 1” supports that go to the torque boxes. Going to tack the lugs and extra support in place. Then pull everything out to fully weld. Hopefully have them completely in tomorrow.
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65 Coupe / Family owned since 21 APR 1964
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I often think I should have installed this MTF offer. At the time I questioned with the other items I accomplished, if it would just be added weight. My opinion however, that smaller pipe triangulating between the upper and the torque box is by far the most important piece.
Looks good Angry. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
I often think I should have installed this MTF offer. At the time I questioned with the other items I accomplished, if it would just be added weight. My opinion however, that smaller pipe triangulating between the upper and the torque box is by far the most important piece.
Looks good Angry. 👍
It would’ve been a lot easier to go with the MTF. I didn’t like where they connected to the firewall though. I wanted them in the corner. The 1” tying to the torque boxes are important but I think the lugs are the most important that will tie it to the cowl. That is, if I have room over my engine. Thank you, sir.
 

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I don’t remember, did you fab up your own or find another source? Tying into the cowl will be good, but yes - possibly challenging given the Coyote. At least you don’t have an air cleaner to work around. 😄👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
I don’t remember, did you fab up your own or find another source? Tying into the cowl will be good, but yes - possibly challenging given the Coyote. At least you don’t have an air cleaner to work around. 😄👍
My friend bent them up for me. He is also helping me fit them and tig welding them in. Very nice of him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
Only got one side completely in yesterday. The other one is tacked. He is super picky so fit up took forever. Other side should be in this weekend so I can move on to the cowl. I’m running out of time! Seems unlikely I will start the car this year.
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You are a go getter! Impressive!
 
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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Picked up the paint for the cowl today. The scan came back highland green. If the vintagleds show up today so I can install the flashers I may weld the lower cowl in.
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Tacked in to locate the lugs and 1” supports that go to the torque boxes. Going to tack the lugs and extra support in place. Then pull everything out to fully weld. Hopefully have them completely in tomorrow.
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Why run the battery cable UP and then back down over the splash shield ? Why not just around the bottom ?
 
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