@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

25626 Views 455 Replies 27 Participants Last post by 602Raptor, 15 d ago

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · Jan 7, 2022 (Edited)

Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Billet Steel Flywheel; 8 Bolt M-6375-G46A (96-04 Mustang Cobra, Mach 1; 99-Mid 01 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Peace of Mind. When replacing your clutch you have two options, resurfacing your old stock flywheel, or getting a brand new flywheel. A new flywh

www.americanmuscle.com

Clutch

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Organic Clutch Kit; 26 Spline M-7560-T46 (96-04 V8 Mustang w/ Tremec Transmission) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Enhances Overall Performance. If you want to add more power to your already impressive Ford Mustang V8, then the Ford Performance Clutch is your

www.americanmuscle.com

Pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing M-7600-B (96-17 Mustang GT; 07-12 Mustang GT500) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Extra Insurance. To extend the life of your Mustangs new performance clutch it is highly recommended to replace that old and worn out stock pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Trans tunnel

1965-1973 Mustang Transmission Tunnel Panel

Parts for Engine-Transmission Swaps & Chassis Upgrades

www.tinmanfabrication.com

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD

Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

Car Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive parking light Vehicle registration plate

Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle

Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Motor vehicle

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Automotive design

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel

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301 - 320 of 456 Posts

Boss5Oh

· #301 · 6 mo ago

Anangryford said:
They are stickers that are placed where my welds are going. Lots of extra work but I decided it makes sense to have paint anywhere I can.

It did not even occur to me that your were simply masking the welds so you could paint. I took a different approach and sprayed the seam with copper infused weld through primer.
I could not replicate what Ford did with their spot weld through seam sealer. I figured anything was better than leaving the metal bare. I have had my eyes opened as I have replaced panels and found rust between the layers of spot welded metal, for example the tail light panel.

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #302 · 6 mo ago

Boss5Oh said:
It did not even occur to me that your were simply masking the welds so you could paint. I took a different approach and sprayed the seam with copper infused weld through primer.
I could not replicate what Ford did with their spot weld through seam sealer. I figured anything was better than leaving the metal bare. I have had my eyes opened as I have replaced panels and found rust between the layers of spot welded metal, for example the tail light panel.

I noticed the same in the layers. Mostly surface rust in my case. I thought about the weld thru primer but read it doesn’t do much in the way of corrosion prevention and is a pain to weld.

Boss5Oh

· #303 · 6 mo ago

Anangryford said:
I noticed the same in the layers. Mostly surface rust in my case. I thought about the weld thru primer but read it doesn’t do much in the way of corrosion prevention and is a pain to weld.

I agree on the pain. I first tried the Eastwood WTP and after one use, threw it away. I got a UPOL copper infused WTP which I like much better. Still harder to strike an arc than bare metal, but I found if I scratched through the primer where the plug welds were to be made, no issue at all as the weld quality was good.

Reactions: 2

Redneckgearhead

· #304 · 6 mo ago

I use wtp then chuck up an end mill in my hand drill to remove the primer in the hole.

Reactions: 2

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #305 · 6 mo ago

Wish me luck…

Vehicle Car Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Tread Tire

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Boss5Oh

· #306 · 6 mo ago

Lots of clamps to keep the upper cowl from shifting. I clamped in a copper backer under the lower layer to prevent blow through were the metal was thinned where you cut through with the spot weld cuter. A little insurance makes the job got quicker.
Good luck, show us the cowl after welding and grinding!

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #307 · 6 mo ago

Didn't get to grinding on the window channel but I did sand the lip under the hood. May go over it with the welder one more time if I'm feeling energetic.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #308 · 6 mo ago

Boss5Oh said:
Lots of clamps to keep the upper cowl from shifting. I clamped in a copper backer under the lower layer to prevent blow through were the metal was thinned where you cut through with the spot weld cuter. A little insurance makes the job got quicker.
Good luck, show us the cowl after welding and grinding!

I tacked all of the spot welds at the windshield lip as that was the only spot I had left to locate because the lower cowl is completely new. I then started in the middle of the lip under the hood and worked my way out. Then welded out both rows in the windshield channel. Went okay but there is more cleanup at the windshield than I would like.

Reactions: 1

arcane73

· #309 · 6 mo ago

Anangryford said:
May go over it with the welder one more time if I'm feeling energetic.

Uh-huh. Sounds like me when I told you I didn't feel like welding in the cowl reinforcement for my strut tower brace.
"You're already there. May as well go ahead and do it"

Reactions: 2

602Raptor

· #310 · 6 mo ago

My .02: I think filling in the gaps on the support brace with weld, will make it look like less of an addition. Your work there looks great either way.

Reactions: 1

Boss5Oh

· #311 · 6 mo ago (Edited)

My .02 cents, I over did it, especially where the welds would be visible with the hood up. Just me as I sometimes don't know where good enough will do, the curse of being a retired aerospace/electronic engineer.

Reactions: 2

Kjsmitty

· #312 · 6 mo ago

I couldn’t tell you how many projects around the house and/or shop that I had to “do over” because I decided to go for “better” or near perfect…. Many times “good enough” can be “the best”. 👍😜

Reactions: 3

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #313 · 6 mo ago (Edited)

Did some grinding and filling (weld) to make it a bit smoother. Got it sanded, cleaned, masked, primed, seam sealed and painted. Not bad for a days work. Here are some pictures in no particular order due to the unique way this site works

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Grille

Window Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle door

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rolling

Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design

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Huntingky

· #314 · 6 mo ago

arcane73 said:
Uh-huh. Sounds like me when I told you I didn't feel like welding in the cowl reinforcement for my strut tower brace.
"You're already there. May as well go ahead and do it"

I was so paranoid on doing mine, I even set the fenders and hood in place just to double check my alignment before I actually started welding.

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #315 · 6 mo ago

Huntingky said:
I was so paranoid on doing mine, I even set the fenders and hood in place just to double check my alignment before I actually started welding.

I just used the old holes in the windshield pinch area and the extensions to the aprons to try to put it back where it was. I will let you know how that worked out in a couple months.

Reactions: 1

Huntingky

· #316 · 6 mo ago

Anangryford said:
I just used the old holes in the windshield pinch area and the extensions to the aprons to try to put it back where it was. I will let you know how that worked out in a couple months.

I'm sure it will work out great. I also used those alignment holes but being I was in such uncharted territory for myself, I was taking a lot of unnecessary steps to doublecheck myself. Still do...one of the reasons I make such slow progress..ha ha

Reactions: 1

Boss5Oh

· #317 · 6 mo ago

I would suggest we are a lot more concerned about exact alignment than was Ford. I think we will all find that the cowl replacement will go just fine.

Reactions: 2

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #318 · 6 mo ago

Quick update. Felt like it couldn’t wait as I’m sure @LSG is on the edge of his seat.

The cowl held me up for 5 days because the seam sealer got sticky once it was painted. Super fun. 4th time sealing and painting was the charm (used different sealer).

Today I bled the brakes and checked for leaks. Installed the fuel lines and checked for leaks up to 80 psi. Then dialed it back to 55 psi per the control pack instructions (more questions on that later). Took the passenger header off and used a bfh to clearance the bell and starter bolt because it moved during welding. Installed the PS lines on the rack. All was good so I installed the engine and transmission. The intake is just sitting on the engine not installed. Maybe tomorrow. It’s not likely I will make my goal of starting it this year…

On to the pics obviously in no particular order do to the unique way this site works.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Car Automotive exterior

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle Automotive exterior

Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold

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Nailbender

· #319 · 6 mo ago

Ready to rumble? 2023!

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #320 · 6 mo ago

Nailbender said:
Ready to rumble? 2023!

I want to be driving it around with it fully assembled by February. We shall see. Burn out could be a factor.

Reactions: 2

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