I understand burnout! Best to have a clear head when lighting the candle the first time!
@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.
Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)
Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)
T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)
Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.
Ford control pack
Flywheel
www.americanmuscle.com
Clutch
www.americanmuscle.com
Pilot
www.americanmuscle.com
Trans tunnel
www.tinmanfabrication.com
Driveshaft will be Sot
Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC
Headers are TBD
Oil cooler nonsense is TBD
Radiator and fan are TBD
Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:
![Car Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive parking light Vehicle registration plate]()
![Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle]()
![Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior]()
![Vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Motor vehicle]()
![Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Automotive design]()
![Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel]()
Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)
Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)
T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)
Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.
Ford control pack
Flywheel
Ford Performance Mustang Billet Steel Flywheel; 8 Bolt M-6375-G46A (96-04 Mustang Cobra, Mach 1; 99-Mid 01 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Peace of Mind. When replacing your clutch you have two options, resurfacing your old stock flywheel, or getting a brand new flywheel. A new flywh
www.americanmuscle.com
Clutch
Ford Performance Mustang Organic Clutch Kit; 26 Spline M-7560-T46 (96-04 V8 Mustang w/ Tremec Transmission) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Enhances Overall Performance. If you want to add more power to your already impressive Ford Mustang V8, then the Ford Performance Clutch is your
www.americanmuscle.com
Pilot
Ford Performance Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing M-7600-B (96-17 Mustang GT; 07-12 Mustang GT500) - Free Shipping
FREE SHIPPING! Extra Insurance. To extend the life of your Mustangs new performance clutch it is highly recommended to replace that old and worn out stock pilot
www.americanmuscle.com
Trans tunnel
1965-1973 Mustang Transmission Tunnel Panel
Parts for Engine-Transmission Swaps & Chassis Upgrades
www.tinmanfabrication.com
Driveshaft will be Sot
Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC
Headers are TBD
Oil cooler nonsense is TBD
Radiator and fan are TBD
Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:
321 - 340 of 456 Posts
I'm right there with you, bud. We're so close, though! Maybe a day out at AMP with Mike and co harrassing us will help......
I have news. The first start will happen this year. Not sure if it will be open header or not but I will try to start it. Put in some hours the last 2 days. Need to fill the trans and cooling system. Then take care of the vacuum nonsense. After that I can crank away. Wiring is in but not put away. Also have a question for you coyote swap guys. Does the check engine light get sent a negative signal or positive? I ask because I wired it for a positive and my check engine light is on with my car off. I also find it interesting that the fuel pump didn’t prime when I turned the key on. I read the gen 3 is like that though. Engine bay is filling up…
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Greetings Angry,
When I turn my key “ON”, my fuel pump only runs about 2-3 seconds. (No tune yet). It obviously comes back on while cranking/once engine starts.
MIL: My gen2 harness had a BLUE (BU) blunt lead 4, and RED (RD) blunt lead 6 wire that connected to the MIL. The red is Posative and HAAT - hot at all times. The blue is ground from the computer. Grounded only if a code/fault is present. So with the key off there should be no ground present on the blue wire thus MIL off.
Not sure how different the gen2 vs gen3 harnesses are. See below for my instructions (see cavity/lead 4 and cavity/lead 6)
My initial start was open headers.. Off course even after I installed the exhaust it was just as loud.. The noise was “further back”…..😵💫
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When I turn my key “ON”, my fuel pump only runs about 2-3 seconds. (No tune yet). It obviously comes back on while cranking/once engine starts.
MIL: My gen2 harness had a BLUE (BU) blunt lead 4, and RED (RD) blunt lead 6 wire that connected to the MIL. The red is Posative and HAAT - hot at all times. The blue is ground from the computer. Grounded only if a code/fault is present. So with the key off there should be no ground present on the blue wire thus MIL off.
Not sure how different the gen2 vs gen3 harnesses are. See below for my instructions (see cavity/lead 4 and cavity/lead 6)
My initial start was open headers.. Off course even after I installed the exhaust it was just as loud.. The noise was “further back”…..😵💫
321 - 340 of 456 Posts
