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@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

25626 Views 455 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  602Raptor
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Engine and transmission are out. T5 is sold. Anyone need a sbf or pimpxs setup😂?
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A large box that says Ford Racing showed up today...

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The Gen-3 is in the house!!!!!
Congrats! :p
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The Gen-3 is in the house!!!!!
Congrats! :p
So enormous. This is only the second time in my life I have felt overwhelmed working on a car. The first was the mini tubs. Going to be a long ride. Thank goodness I have all of you with your past experience to rely on. Now I need to figure out a good way to pick this thing up because I had no way to do it. Me and three neighbors took it off the pallet by hand.
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Do you have access to an engine hoist? You basically have two lifting options on the engine. There are large steel adapters that mount - one on the rear of the passenger head the other on the front side of the drivers head. There are also intake manifold plates that bolt on with the manifold off etc. I have both and found the manifold plate by far the best. The below from MMR is one of the best (1/2 inch thick billet aluminum $70). Having the intake off is also best if you’re making multiple fit tests, in and out etc. The manifold plate will lift both engine and trans assembled.
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Do you have access to an engine hoist? You basically have two lifting options on the engine. There are large steel adapters that mount - one on the rear of the passenger head the other on the front side of the drivers head. There are also intake manifold plates that bolt on with the manifold off etc. I have both and found the manifold plate by far the best. The below from MMR is one of the best (1/2 inch thick billet aluminum $70). Having the intake off is also best if you’re making multiple fit tests, in and out etc. The manifold plate will lift both engine and trans assembled.
View attachment 828196
I do have access to a hoist and was leaning towards an intake plate. As much as I don’t want to take the intake off, it seems like having it out of the way for test fitting would be the best way to avoid breaking anything. Thanks!
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I do have access to a hoist and was leaning towards an intake plate. As much as I don’t want to take the intake off, it seems like having it out of the way for test fitting would be the best way to avoid breaking anything. Thanks!
I didn't want to pull my intake so went with the corner attachments. There was more than one time I almost broke down and ordered intake plate.
One thing I did do was took old piece of leaf spring and make a smaller, thinner version of the rear passenger attachment. Then I left it in place. I realized it was so tight I was going to have to use a really short bolt to enable me to remove it after installing the engine. And of course, there was the concern if I ever have to pull it back out. the plate kind of disappears in back but is there if I need it.
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I ordered this.

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Spending hours and hours researching and haven't been able to find the cooling requirements for the coyote. I have a direct fit Ron Davis aluminum radiator with 2 1" cores that I would like to use but I'm not sure if its enough. The hose orientation it right though. I live in Phoenix and need A/C. What are your thoughts? The factory GT radiator doesn't appear to have any more volume and saving the space in my tiny engine compartment would be nice. Not to mention it has 1200 miles on it, its an $800 radiator, and I already have it. Thoughts?
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Nice looking radiator but as you may be thinking - it may not work for you - or, as you stated size/space and every thing else the swap requires may take you a different direction etc.

Two key items/requirements many have is both an engine oil cooler and power steering (PS) cooler. ( Is that provisions for a trans “or“ PS cooler in the bottom of yours?)(I just remembered you may run elect PS as well)

Both can be done external to the radiator but space and extra plumbing can be an issue. I looked for the largest radiator that would fit and had both the PS and engine oil cooler integrated into the radiator etc. The PS was a given. The engine oil cooler I could have gone stand alone, installed in front but my future dream of an intercooler “requirement“ 😜 had me wanting to preserve space out front and minimize plumbing in that area. I settled on a C&R radiator W/both coolers built in - it’s actually sized / designed for a 67 or newer Mustang application but given the radiator support mods I already had planned, a few more minor adjustments to ensure fitment were easy.

On the other hand, I would suggest calling Ford Performance. Your current radiator may be fine in regards to required cooling ability and Coyote requirements. With your IFS and Gen3 are you forced into an external oil filter and cooler or can you remotely use the Coyote oil filter mount/cooler unit? I feel that is a stupid question but asked…. 🤓
- If your plan was a remote oil filter and oil cooler from the get go, you could go that route and use your current radiator. HOWEVER, when plumbing your PS and oil filter/cooler consider doing it in a way where if you had to go to a larger radiator (cooling proved insufficient), the necessary plumbing or location adjustments were painless or at least minimal cost etc.. Basically engineer/mod-in some flexibility if needed etc.

I would start there.
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Nice looking radiator but as you may be thinking - it may not work for you - or, as you stated size/space and every thing else the swap requires may take you a different direction etc.

Two key items/requirements many have is both an engine oil cooler and power steering (PS) cooler. ( Is that provisions for a trans “or“ PS cooler in the bottom of yours?)(I just remembered you may run elect PS as well)

It is a trans cooler so I could use it as a PS cooler.

Both can be done external to the radiator but space and extra plumbing can be an issue. I looked for the largest radiator that would fit and had both the PS and engine oil cooler integrated into the radiator etc. The PS was a given. The engine oil cooler I could have gone stand alone, installed in front but my future dream of an intercooler “requirement“ 😜 had me wanting to preserve space out front and minimize plumbing in that area. I settled on a C&R radiator W/both coolers built in - it’s actually sized / designed for a 67 or newer Mustang application but given the radiator support mods I already had planned, a few more minor adjustments to ensure fitment were easy.

I have no plans on a intercooler so my plan was to find a -12 oil cooler that would go in front of the radiator.


On the other hand, I would suggest calling Ford Performance. Your current radiator may be fine in regards to required cooling ability and Coyote requirements. With your IFS and Gen3 are you forced into an external oil filter and cooler or can you remotely use the Coyote oil filter mount/cooler unit? I feel that is a stupid question but asked…. 🤓
- If your plan was a remote oil filter and oil cooler from the get go, you could go that route and use your current radiator. HOWEVER, when plumbing your PS and oil filter/cooler consider doing it in a way where if you had to go to a larger radiator (cooling proved insufficient), the necessary plumbing or location adjustments were painless or at least minimal cost etc.. Basically engineer/mod-in some flexibility if needed etc.

Good idea. I will call FP tomorrow and see if I can email them pics of the radiator. Maybe I'll give PBH a call too. I am still torn between an electric volvo PS pump and the integrated pump with the vintage air front runner kit. Either way, my rack will remain hydraulic.
I will be running a remote filter and plan to set it up like @Boss5Oh but run it to the external cooler through bulkheads in the core support. Thanks!
Here is what I used in my 70 Mach 1. C & R Racing's 1967-1970 Mustang Radiator Module 15-11554 features built-in power steering cooler, engine oil cooler, with dual 11-inch Spal electric fans for superior cooling. The inlets and outlets on the radiator are designed to work with engine swaps of newer Ford Coyote and Modular engines. Said to be good to 1000 HP, so appropriate for boosted builds too. The radiator is very wide, I actually had to make a relief in the front inner fender apron on the DS for the lower radiator hose.
When trying to integrate all the features one should have, not a lot of choices out there in a off the shelf design. You can always have a custom configuration made up, but up goes the price too.
In my case the radiator covers the engine coolant, engine oil, and PS cooling functions. Additionally I have the Vintage Air Condenser and a Ford Racing Trans cooler for the 6R80 up front too.
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Here is what I used in my 70 Mach 1. C & R Racing's 1967-1970 Mustang Radiator Module 15-11554 features built-in power steering cooler, engine oil cooler, with dual 11-inch Spal electric fans for superior cooling. The inlets and outlets on the radiator are designed to work with engine swaps of newer Ford Coyote and Modular engines. Said to be good to 1000 HP, so appropriate for boosted builds too. The radiator is very wide, I actually had to make a relief in the front inner fender apron on the DS for the lower radiator hose.
When trying to integrate all the features one should have, not a lot of choices out there in a off the shelf design. You can always have a custom configuration made up, but up goes the price too.
In my case the radiator covers the engine coolant, engine oil, and PS cooling functions. Additionally I have the Vintage Air Condenser and a Ford Racing Trans cooler for the 6R80 up front too.
And here I was thinking my old radiator was expensive... It is an amazing package, I just want to try to kind of stick to my budget so my wife doesn't murder me. I know budgets and coyote swaps don't really mix but I don't want to tell her that. I actually found a guy in Texas running my same basic radiator on his swap and he has not had an issue even in the summer. He said it has never exceeded 195*. He doesn't have AC yet though. So many decisions. I need to stop looking at parts of the build I'm not dealing with at this moment because my head is spinning.
I know budgets and coyote swaps don't really mix but I don't want to tell her that.
Good luck with your budget, mine went out the window very early on in the build.
If you have not already, take a look at my build thread just to get ideas from what I have already done.
I started my build in 2017 and accumulated a lot of parts before the SCOTUS Wayfair decision regarding collection of sales tax on Internet sales. A lot of parts were also bought before the post pandemic inflation we see now. I have not tried to do anything on the cheap except my labor. Yeah, a well done Coyote swap is not cheap or easy. I have it all, AC, PS, Hydroboost PB, 6R80 AT, full chassis, suspension and brake upgrades and it goes on and on. I don't even want to put a number in print, but it is a bunch.
Regarding the radiator, after buying mine for $1699 from Summit I saw a smaller company, possibly Lethal Performance that had it for over $100 less. With price increases and the time that has passed, I imagine the current price has to be closer to the C&R retail number.
Good luck, keep looking at parts and refine your plan. There are lots of ways to approach a Coyote swap, simple keeps the cost down. For example, Mustangs to Fear has a Coyote swap radiator, however it does not have the engine oil and PS coolers built in. Ford built in a oil cooler for a reason, eliminating it poses a possible risk to the engine. I chose not to test fate and go without it.
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Intake comes off easy. I found the direct injectors.
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Intake comes off easy. I found the direct injectors.
Well that’s interesting. I was actually wondering where that took place since the manifold looked very similar to the Gen-2. That also answers my question regarding what that silver/plumbing looking unit on the passenger valve cover was all about…

Thanks for sharing Angry,

PS - I used to joke with my wife when looking at parts. I would tell her if the words “Coyote Swap” were anywhere on the page, all parts listed were twice the cost they should be….

KJ
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Well that’s interesting. I was actually wondering where that took place since the manifold looked very similar to the Gen-2. That also answers my question regarding what that silver/plumbing looking unit on the passenger valve cover was all about…

Thanks for sharing Angry,

PS - I used to joke with my wife when looking at parts. I would tell her if the words “Coyote Swap” were anywhere on the page, all parts listed were twice the cost they should be….

KJ
No problem.
Yep. It’s like the difference in flowers at the grocery store and flowers for a wedding. Whatever you do, don’t type in coyote.
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Plate is on. Seems like it should be clearance for the DI rail bolts. There is about a .060 gap between the plate and the heads because the bolts stick above the intake plain. Other than that it fit well. Now I’m debating removing the wire harness entirely. The engine mounts are in the mail somewhere in Canada and are delayed by “uncontrollable events“ (UPS) but I should be test fitting in the next week or two.
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Got the front end and interior out today. now I need to clean all of the undercoating off the inner fenders and firewall. Never really liked it and it was done by the PO. I will leave it on the subframe though. The front of the subframe that runs across below the radiatior support has 66 written on it. I assume that means that it must have been replaced at some point?
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