@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

25589 Views 455 Replies 27 Participants Last post by 602Raptor, 11 d ago

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · Jan 7, 2022 (Edited)

6

Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Billet Steel Flywheel; 8 Bolt M-6375-G46A (96-04 Mustang Cobra, Mach 1; 99-Mid 01 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Peace of Mind. When replacing your clutch you have two options, resurfacing your old stock flywheel, or getting a brand new flywheel. A new flywh

www.americanmuscle.com

Clutch

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Organic Clutch Kit; 26 Spline M-7560-T46 (96-04 V8 Mustang w/ Tremec Transmission) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Enhances Overall Performance. If you want to add more power to your already impressive Ford Mustang V8, then the Ford Performance Clutch is your

www.americanmuscle.com

Pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing M-7600-B (96-17 Mustang GT; 07-12 Mustang GT500) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Extra Insurance. To extend the life of your Mustangs new performance clutch it is highly recommended to replace that old and worn out stock pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Trans tunnel

1965-1973 Mustang Transmission Tunnel Panel

Parts for Engine-Transmission Swaps & Chassis Upgrades

www.tinmanfabrication.com

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD

Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #81 · Mar 26, 2022

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #82 · Mar 28, 2022

3

Got the CAI tacked in. Decided I’d stitch weld it instead of butt welding. There are a bunch of places the apron needs flattened out which would make butt welding and making it look good a pain. Took the easy way since no one will see it anyway. Also dropped the passenger side of the engine 1 degree to level it out. Nothing will be fully welded until everything fits at the same time. Transmission crossmember will be here Tuesday.

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Kjsmitty

· #83 · Mar 28, 2022

Good call on tack welding and waiting to finalize nail everything is / has been installed and perfected. Very well may not be a fitment issue but a change of direction.
I had a fun time with my Heidts engine mounts as well. Just due to their hand welding / jigs my drivers side mount was slightly angled resulting in 1/4 inch or more lower on the drivers side. I then had to change the centering hole due to it pulling the engine closer one way than the other. Had similar issues with their IRS mounts/saddles. Their customer support was great however. I ended up completely fabricating an entire new rear frame rails / IRS support structure that incorporated their saddles however laminated the frames from torque box through rear frame to where a roll cage would mount etc.

Got off track,, but regardless of manufacturer a lot of these kits are welded by hand, add that to 1960s build perimeters and tolerances definitely need to be validated on each car

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #84 · Mar 30, 2022 (Edited)

5

Got the trans mount tacked up and the car on the ground with the weight of the drivetrain on the chassis for the first time in a while. In the next couple days I will measure the drivetrain angle at ride height. I also have a 15/16 MC from a 95 cobra showing up tomorrow to try out. The reservoir is tilted and will hopefully help out the fact the MC needs to be raised. Thanks to @arcane73 for showing me @j persons post on this mount. It’s a nice piece. What do you guys think of me running without a tunnel support? I’m debating it because of space. I also am not sure it would do very much without the crossmember installed. Seems like it would need that triangulation to be strong enough to make a difference.

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arcane73

· #85 · Mar 30, 2022

Anangryford said:
Got the trans mount tacked up and the car on the ground with the weight of the drivetrain on the chassis for the first time in a while. In the next couple days I will measure the drivetrain angle at ride height. I also have a 15/16 MC from a 95 cobra showing up tomorrow to try out. The reservoir is tilted and will hopefully help out the fact the MC needs to be raised. Thanks to @arcane73 for showing me @j persons post on this mount. It’s a nice piece. What do you guys think of me running without a tunnel support? I’m debating it because of space. I also am not sure it would do very much without the crossmember installed. Seems like it would need that triangulation to be strong enough to make a difference.

That turned out to be a beefy piece. I'm glad it worked out for you. I really can't say much on the tunnel support that would help. I would -think- that it's less important since you now have a more robust piece in place acting as both a trans crossmember and keeping the front rails tied together.

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #86 · Apr 2, 2022

5

Still hacking away. So much cutting. Glad it’s a T code. Want to thank @Kjsmitty for the pics under his dash. Definitely gave me some ideas. I need to move my MC about 3/4 outward and 3/4” up. I’m trying to accomplish 1/4” using the pin where the MC attaches to the brake pedal. I have to move it anyway since I had the mustang Steve power brake kit before. For the other 1/2” I will modify the pedal support To make it a bit offset as well as longer with a 3/16” thick tilted plate at the end to bolt to the firewall and MC. Firewall will have an 18 ga skin put over it. Lots of work for manual brakes. The rusty plate is for mock up of MC

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Nailbender

· #87 · Apr 2, 2022

Kjsmitty

· #88 · Apr 3, 2022

Great idea in regards to the way you cut the peddle box/assembly. My brain was adamant about not doing that but looking back that would definitely be the easier approach. You will most likely need/want a 1/2 inch spacer to accommodate the possible 3/4 raise at the firewall. That was with leaving the rear box shape the same etc. You will have the brakes sorted soon. Then on to the clutch.👍

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #89 · Apr 3, 2022 (Edited)

Nailbender said:

I completely agree😂. I knew there would be challenges. It is fun though. Even asked myself if I should just spend the $1500 and do the hydro boost to save the hassle but I don’t think the car needs it and as complicated as it is to get it sorted, I like the simplicity/feel of the manual. I had a fox booster and was about as happy as you were with your power brakes. This setup will rule out the cable clutch though, so an order to malwood will be in my near future.

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #90 · Apr 3, 2022 (Edited)

Kjsmitty said:
Great idea in regards to the way you cut the peddle box/assembly. My brain was adamant about not doing that but looking back that would definitely be the easier approach. You will most likely need/want a 1/2 inch spacer to accommodate the possible 3/4 raise at the firewall. That was with leaving the rear box shape the same etc. You will have the brakes sorted soon. Then on to the clutch.👍
[/QUOTE
I need to extend the firewall end about 1.5”. I will try to have the rise come from that extension. If that’s not enough I will try to Pie cut it after the pedal shaft so I don’t move the pedals up. That said, I haven’t been under there yet to see what’s going to happen. Today was a golf day and then pool. 88* here today. I’ll probably have an update tomorrow.

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #91 · Apr 3, 2022

5

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #92 · Apr 3, 2022

3

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Kjsmitty

· #93 · Apr 4, 2022

Nailed it!l. Nice work - great modification/thinking and execution. 👍

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #94 · Apr 4, 2022

Kjsmitty said:
Nailed it!l. Nice work - great modification/thinking and execution. 👍

Thank you! I won’t weld the 3/16” MC support plate to the pedal support until I have the actual firewall mocked up in place. I’ll bolt the plate to the MC and firewall and tack it so it fits perfectly. Should have sheetmetal and hole saws Tuesday. Then I need a pushrod and some machining to the MC so it captures the pushrod and can’t fall out. I knew the brakes were going to be a pain. Should be all down hill after though. Hoping to have the brake nightmare over this month.

Metal work sucks without a bench vise! I know some people don’t have a garage, and I am a whiner but my limited space is making this more difficult than it should be.

arcane73

· #95 · Apr 4, 2022

Anangryford said:
Metal work sucks without a bench vise! I know some people don’t have a garage, and I am a whiner but my limited space is making this more difficult than it should be.

I always say the same thing! Even with a half-lift, I still gripe about having so little room to work!
Looking good!

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #96 · Apr 6, 2022

2

While I am working on the firewall, the engine will be out for what seems like the hundredth time. I want to figure out what I'm going to do for the alternator and PS drive while its out. I'm looking at the PBH and Vintage Air but would be open to any others if they're good.

The VA doesn't move the alternator and I'm not sure if it will fit in the stock location. I assume it would because of how high my engine is. I also don't know if I want the power steering on the passenger side of the engine. Seems like routing would be a pain.

The PBH moves the alt to the pass side and puts the PS pump where the alt used to be right near my rack connections. I don't especially like how the alt looks in there backwards but its not a deal breaker. They have a modular ford pump option and a smaller gm pump option. I have no idea which is best.

Anyone use these setups and what do you like/dislike about them? Which pump did you get If you're running the PBH? Which alternator kit did you get if your running the VA? Where did you get PS hoses?

I'm leaning towards the PBH kit except that the AC kit will be by VA and I don't like to mix parts if I can help it. They both cost around $2k for everything.

PBH

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VA

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Redneckgearhead

· #97 · Apr 6, 2022

Can you do away with the ps pump and just run an electric ps pump?

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #98 · Apr 6, 2022

Redneckgearhead said:
Can you do away with the ps pump and just run an electric ps pump?

I could use a Volvo pump out of a yard. That crossed my mind too, but I haven't seen anyone do it to know what its like.

Kjsmitty

· #99 · Apr 7, 2022

Good evening,
Given the Heidts IFS my hands were tied In regards to the Alt would have to go somewhere other than the lower left. Compound that with a desire to someday supercharge my Stang left me ordering from PBH. The only negative is the reversed mounted Alt. And it’s only a negative to me due to abnormal looks and the opposite direction of rotation had this older Motörhead saying whhhaat? Not much run time but it has all worked flawlessly. So no complaints.
Now, if your IFS supports running the Alt in the lower left, I would probably stick with that location and go either VA front runner or other than PBH. Again, nothing wrong with the PBH setup but it’s main reason for existence is placing the Alt elsewhere all while still supporting PS and AC, and support for several boost options etc..

If you go VA, purchase the Boss Alt kit from Summit. You get a new Ford 150amp Alt w/pulley, belt and tensioner if I remember right. Then get the VA front runner with Sanden compressor and integrated PS pump and reservoir.

If you go PBH, I would suggest just getting their NA setup as pictured above with low profile PS pump mount (if needed). It comes with both required belts and all idler/fixed pulleys. Purchase the Sanden compressor from Summit. Then save some $$ and grab a reman Gen-2 Coyote/Mustang150amp Alt with either a clutch or direct drive pulley - I believe the six speed Coyote had a clutch pulley and automatics had a direct mount pulley (if you go clutch pulley it requires a simple modification due to the reverse rotation). Then a 1996 V8 Mustang PS pump with pulley. PBH will sell you all of it but they want about $700 for the Alternator, Pulley, and PS pump (I have not looked lately however). They also sell a low profile plumbing kit/fittings for the 1996 Mustang style PS pump that works well. I can provide more details if you go that route.

KJ

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1bad68cat

· #100 · Apr 8, 2022

Anangryford said:
While I am working on the firewall, the engine will be out for what seems like the hundredth time. I want to figure out what I'm going to do for the alternator and PS drive while its out. I'm looking at the PBH and Vintage Air but would be open to any others if they're good.

The VA doesn't move the alternator and I'm not sure if it will fit in the stock location. I assume it would because of how high my engine is. I also don't know if I want the power steering on the passenger side of the engine. Seems like routing would be a pain.

The PBH moves the alt to the pass side and puts the PS pump where the alt used to be right near my rack connections. I don't especially like how the alt looks in there backwards but its not a deal breaker. They have a modular ford pump option and a smaller gm pump option. I have no idea which is best.

Anyone use these setups and what do you like/dislike about them? Which pump did you get If you're running the PBH? Which alternator kit did you get if your running the VA? Where did you get PS hoses?

I'm leaning towards the PBH kit except that the AC kit will be by VA and I don't like to mix parts if I can help it. They both cost around $2k for everything.

PBH
View attachment 836859

VA
View attachment 836860

I am running the stock alternator in the factory position using the Detroit Speed alternator relocation bracket. It rotates the alternator closer to the block and further away from the frame rail.

Detroit Speed 060436DS Detroit Speed Coyote Alternator Relocation Bracket

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