@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

25632 Views 455 Replies 27 Participants Last post by 602Raptor, 15 d ago

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · Jan 7, 2022 (Edited)

Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Billet Steel Flywheel; 8 Bolt M-6375-G46A (96-04 Mustang Cobra, Mach 1; 99-Mid 01 Mustang GT) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Peace of Mind. When replacing your clutch you have two options, resurfacing your old stock flywheel, or getting a brand new flywheel. A new flywh

www.americanmuscle.com

Clutch

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Organic Clutch Kit; 26 Spline M-7560-T46 (96-04 V8 Mustang w/ Tremec Transmission) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Enhances Overall Performance. If you want to add more power to your already impressive Ford Mustang V8, then the Ford Performance Clutch is your

www.americanmuscle.com

Pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Ford Performance Mustang Roller Pilot Bearing M-7600-B (96-17 Mustang GT; 07-12 Mustang GT500) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Extra Insurance. To extend the life of your Mustangs new performance clutch it is highly recommended to replace that old and worn out stock pilot

www.americanmuscle.com

Trans tunnel

1965-1973 Mustang Transmission Tunnel Panel

Parts for Engine-Transmission Swaps & Chassis Upgrades

www.tinmanfabrication.com

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD

Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #121 · Apr 29, 2022

Vintage air front runner. As many of you know this is a pretty nice kit. Some of the machining is a little goofy but over all it looks nice. One word of caution for you long haulers is that I see no way to change a belt without taking it apart.

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BarryS

· #122 · Apr 29, 2022

Anangryford said:
to change a belt without taking in apart.

I have the same setup and you are correct!

Reactions: 2

Boss5Oh

· #123 · Apr 29, 2022 (Edited)

I have not seen the value in using the front runner accessory drive over the Ford OEM accessory drive. Now, in all fairness, my engine is a low mileage take out from a 2017 GT, so I got the accessory drive, AC compressor, and alternator for free with the engine. However it fits very well in my 70 Mustang using the TCP front subframe. It is easy to change belts or other components and the KRP PS pump is designed to work with it. Is there some advantage I am missing, not criticizing your choice, just curious.
Although I have never checked but I would think the Ford OEM parts should be available.

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #124 · Apr 30, 2022

Boss5Oh said:
I have not seen the value in using the front runner accessory drive over the Ford OEM accessory drive. Now, in all fairness, my engine is a low mileage take out from a 2017 GT, so I got the accessory drive, AC compressor, and alternator for free with the engine. However it fits very well in my 70 Mustang using the TCP front subframe. It is easy to change belts or other components and the KRP PS pump is designed to work with it. Is there some advantage I am missing, not criticizing you choice, just curious.
Although I have never checked but I would think the Ford OEM parts should be available.

They are available but the cost would have been the same had I set up my crate like yours. I figured since I was using the rest of the VA kit I should go this direction. Your build is incredible and if I find myself near you I will be messaging you to swing by to see it. May be headed to munds next month.

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Boss5Oh

· #125 · Apr 30, 2022

Looking forward to it if you make it up here for golf.

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #126 · May 2, 2022

Gauges

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Boss5Oh

· #127 · May 2, 2022

Anangryford said:
Gauges
View attachment 840688 View attachment 840689

Gauges look great. Did the manufacturer include the single disconnect Molex connection? I did something similar on my Factory Five Cobra when I wired the Speedhut vintage gauges for it. The single disconnect is very handy if you ever need to service the gauge pod, or just remove it to gain access to something behind it.

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #128 · May 2, 2022

Boss5Oh said:
Gauges look great. Did the manufacturer include the single disconnect Molex connection? I did something similar on my Factory Five Cobra when I wired the Speedhut vintage gauges for it. The single disconnect is very handy if you ever need to service the gauge pod, or just remove it to gain access to something behind it.

I don’t know what molex is but there is a single disconnect in the second pic. It’s white.

Boss5Oh

· #129 · May 3, 2022

Anangryford said:
I don’t know what molex is but there is a single disconnect in the second pic. It’s white.

Yes that is the Molex connector. Molex is just a term for a line of connectors that have been common place for decades.
Thumbs up to the manufacturer to do it right and not just leave a bunch of wires dangling.
It is actually better for the manufacturer too as it allows a single connector to functionally check the gauges before boxing them up for shipping. Sorry the engineer in be likes this stuff.
I found the Dakota Digital gauges interesting as they have a single CAT5 network connection between the gauges and the wiring block. So similarly, easy to disconnect if needed.

Reactions: 1

602Raptor

· #130 · May 4, 2022

Nice. I apologize if I missed it, but who was the vendor / manufacturer for the gauges?

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #131 · May 5, 2022

602Raptor said:
Nice. I apologize if I missed it, but who was the vendor / manufacturer for the gauges?

Oops. I never said. New vintage USA. They are the 69 series. It was between that and the Dakota but I don’t like the small tach and these were very cheap compared the them. I asked them questions via email and they were very prompt to reply and sent me a 10% off code. Main thing is that the speedo is electronic so I can eliminate the cable.

Reactions: 2

Huntingky

· #132 · May 11, 2022

Huntingky said:
I believe it would be a viable option but I haven't actually driven the truck so hard for me to say good or bad. He has the pump mounted up under the fender and there is just a little sound from it when you turn the power on but you can't here it at all once he lights the fuse on the Coyote.
I'm sure he would give you his thoughts on it, functional and budget wise. I need to get over to his place and return his Coyote lift plates and check out his twister build so I will see what he thinks now that he has lived with it for a year.

So, I was at my friends shop Saturday and I asked him about the Volvo pump and steering. He really likes it, says the road feel is great. In fact, he had just picked up a new project, a 63 F100, and intends to use same setup in this one. He got a steal on the truck, someone had already done a very, very nice job of installing a Crown Vic front end and new floor pan and then got bored with the project. Got it for way under 2K. Picked up a Coyote F150 for a decent price and will be dropping it in there.
Also has an 86 (?) F150 and complete Crown Vic he will be combining soon.
Almost done with his Mustang Twister.

Reactions: 1

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #133 · May 11, 2022

Been talking to Tilton about my HRB the last couple days. They have not been very much help but its likely for liability reasons. Gave them the bore and stroke of my malwood and asked if it was 100% necessary to put in a clutch stop. They said yes. I found the data sheet online for the bearing and did the math and I think I can get away with not running it. The bearing has a capacity of .81 ci at full stroke and the malwood pushes .61 so I should be good assuming its enough to disengage the clutch.

Now I just need to figure out where to put the clutch switch for the PCM.

Also ordered an aluminum drive shaft from @Shaun @ Street or Track yesterday and to my surprise, it will be built and sent across the country in 4 days! Should have it Friday. Anyone know of any decent 1330 U joints? As of now moog are in my cart from summit.

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Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #134 · May 11, 2022

Huntingky said:
So, I was at my friends shop Saturday and I asked him about the Volvo pump and steering. He really likes it, says the road feel is great. In fact, he had just picked up a new project, a 63 F100, and intends to use same setup in this one. He got a steal on the truck, someone had already done a very, very nice job of installing a Crown Vic front end and new floor pan and then got bored with the project. Got it for way under 2K. Picked up a Coyote F150 for a decent price and will be dropping it in there.
Also has an 86 (?) F150 and complete Crown Vic he will be combining soon.
Almost done with his Mustang Twister.

Nice! Wish there were deals like that here.

Glad he likes the Volvo pump. Too late for me on that. I spent the money on the VA setup for project simplification. Definitely wasn't as simple of an install as I expected even though I read the instructions before I bought it. As an FYI I talked to VA about the integrated reservoir and they said there isnt enough room and it has to be remote.

Reactions: 1

arcane73

· #135 · May 11, 2022

So, which of us will be the one to drive their running pile over to the other's house first?
That's the real question!

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #136 · May 11, 2022

arcane73 said:
So, which of us will be the one to drive their running pile over to the other's house first?
That's the real question!

Easy answer is you are. I hope to fire it in December but that's a lofty goal. Every time I stare at it I remember or see something else that needs done. The never ending list is only getting longer. Even the metal work(which I usually like) seems daunting. Even debated getting the prefabbed tunnel you have to save time, but I don't think its tall enough. Then on to the parking brake. As high as the drivetrain is I'm not sure there is room. On the plus side, most of the expensive things are bought. Only big ticket item I have left is AC components. Then there will be bugs to work out, tuning, carpet. Long way to go!

Reactions: 1

BarryS

· #137 · May 11, 2022

Anangryford said:
Been talking to Tilton about my HRB the last couple days. They have not been very much help but its likely for liability reasons. Gave them the bore and stroke of my malwood and asked if it was 100% necessary to put in a clutch stop. They said yes. I found the data sheet online for the bearing and did the math and I think I can get away with not running it. The bearing has a capacity of .81 ci at full stroke and the malwood pushes .61 so I should be good assuming its enough to disengage the clutch.

That's an interesting find. The manual for my Tremec T56 Hydraulic Release Bearing (P/N 60-6105) indicates a full stroke of 0.70". I imagine that this travel is reduced by the initial setup of 0.125" clearance so the practical travel is down to 0.575" max. It also states that most diaphragm requires 3/8 to 7/16" for disengagement and 0.5" for 3-finger diaphragms. the HRB displaces 0.604 ci @ 0.5" (stated in installation instructions). The 1968 mustang Malwood with a 0.75" bore and 1.375" travel displaces 0.607 ci which would reach the 0.5" travel needed for the worst case diaphragm requirements. What displacement are you going the get at 0.81 ci volume and why do you think you'll need more than 0.5". Thanks

Anangryford

Discussion Starter · #138 · May 11, 2022 (Edited)

BarryS said:
That's an interesting find. The manual for my Tremec T56 Hydraulic Release Bearing (P/N 60-6105) indicates a full stroke of 0.70". I imagine that this travel is reduced by the initial setup of 0.125" clearance so the practical travel is down to 0.575" max. It also states that most diaphragm requires 3/8 to 7/16" for disengagement and 0.5" for 3-finger diaphragms. the HRB displaces 0.604 ci @ 0.5" (stated in installation instructions). The 1968 mustang Malwood with a 0.75" bore and 1.375" travel displaces 0.607 ci which would reach the 0.5" travel needed for the worst case diaphragm requirements. What displacement are you going the get at 0.81 ci volume and why do you think you'll need more than 0.5". Thanks

Oh good call. I didn't think about the .125 clearance and how that would effect travel. I just did the math based on the Tilton piston size(1.215) and the .700 stroke to make sure the Malwood wouldn't exceed the HRB's capacity. My main concern was over extending the bearing as it doesn't have a stop inside of it. Did you add a pedal stop? Tilton seems to want me to install one no matter what. They said if it compresses the pressure plate too far that it could cause issues.

https://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/HRB-6000-Series.pdf

BarryS

· #139 · May 11, 2022

I spoke with Malwood this morning and they actually recommend the Tilton and expressed that the under dash unit was designed with the Tilton as an end. I have not installed the Malwood unit yet and am replacing the MDL Rue Goldberg crap with the Malwood when my car gets back from upholstery. Question now is can the clutch pedal stop be the end of the MC travel, I think it can. I'm calling Malwood back.

BarryS

· #140 · May 11, 2022

The Malwood unit has a built-in pedal stop and it is somewhat adjustable (from the source). Thanks for bringing this up.

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