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@thatgreen66yote Coyote Swap Thread

25669 Views 455 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  602Raptor
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

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Now I need to figure out how to get the sealant off without damaging the crappy paint.
I was very surprised that the brake fluid I used to soften the gasket DID not attack the paint. I guess after 52 years, the paint is hard as nails.
I have been using a professional strength goof off to remove the adhesive from my weather strip trim channels around the doors. It attacks the adhesive but it might not attack cured paint, something to try maybe? I didn't care about removing the paint so the methods I used to remove the sealant were too aggressive for your application. I would suggest putting an edge on a paint stick or something else made of wood to prevent scratching.
Got my parking brake yesterday. It’s from control cables. Looks pretty nice. View attachment 844105

price is good too, i just ordered
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As long as your aren't looking to fit a battery up there(battery I have there is just temp there till I relocate it) you should have plenty of room for an airbox...I would recommend making your own airbox anyway rather that trying to fit one made for a different chassis, neither fiberglass or steel would be incredibly difficult to fabricate for something like that, it doesn't have to be air tight, it just needs to isolate a cone filter from the engine bay heat.
Don’t worry, my second gen coyote runs nice and and cool at 190deg romping pretty good with the AC running. One fan comes on with Ac request and the other fan kicks in also with ecm signal.

Thanks for the input. My current radiator is that configuration but much smaller(direct 66 replacement for 5.0 swap). Its a Ron Davis radiator with 2 1" rows. I would like to run as large as I can, but the airbox needs to go up there somewhere. I wonder if with the right fan I could get away with keeping the one I have. Not sure if its enough with AC.
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Don’t worry, my second gen coyote runs nice and and cool at 190deg romping pretty good with the AC running. One fan comes on with Ac request and the other fan kicks in also with ecm signal.
Did you have the ECM re-flashed to come on at 190 deg? My ECM out of the box turned on at 180 deg.
I have been lazy lately as it has been hot here. I have been fitting up some ac components and debating where all the wiring will go. May pull the drivetrain again today to remove the cowl this weekend. Did have the factory heater fittings modified by a friend with some -10an ends. They were $7 instead of the $140 for the billet ones.
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Well done!
Nice TIG work by your friend as well. I here ya on the cost of the aftermarket AN options. At the time my “cheaper” option was to purchase two of the smaller passenger side fittings from MMR and fabricate an adapter mount to facilitate having it work on the drivers side. But yes, still way more than $7…. Now that I think about it I don’t think they had a bolt on drivers side -10AN fitting at the time.

Guys got to take a break from the build from time to time. I go in spirts, but have not remotely felt burn out etc.
- Actual milestone today matter a fact! My 65’s now registered, insured and state inspection complete.

The cowl…. You best get on that so you aren’t loosing sleep due to the excitement 😜
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Last week I also threw my seat, pedals and shift lever in to see how everything felt. Pedals seem high, but my friend with a 68 @arcane73 had the same pedal height as me on the stop in the same basic state.
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Today the real fun started.
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I’m not excited.

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Last week I also threw my seat, pedals and shift lever in to see how everything felt. Pedals seem high, but my friend with a 68 @arcane73 had the same pedal height as me on the stop in the same basic state. View attachment 847676
View attachment 847674
For another data point my pedals measure 6.5 inches from the carpet which tells me your 7 inches is normal considering the mass backed 1/2 inch thick carpet I have..

**Also, the Coyote throttle pedal mount measurement we where discussing last week is actually “2” inches (I was only off by 100%).

Oh,,, we feel the excitement….. 😜
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**Also, the Coyote throttle pedal mount measurement we where discussing last week is actually “2” inches (I was only off by 100%).

Oh,,, we feel the excitement….. 😜
[/QUOTE]
Lol. Thanks KJ
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You're pulling out the cowl and I'm spraying lizardskin in uncomfortable places......we're making progress during the hottest days of the year so far. You've got this! And my offer still stands of standing nearby while holding a cold beverage and being all judgy about your progress! :ROFLMAO:
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Last week I also threw my seat, pedals and shift lever in to see how everything felt. Pedals seem high, but my friend with a 68 @arcane73 had the same pedal height as me on the stop in the same basic state. View attachment 847676
View attachment 847674
Today the real fun started.
View attachment 847680
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View attachment 847681
I’m not excited.
Been there done that, so much fun, NOT! I know you have to do it, my mistake was counting the number of spot welds removed, about 180 as I remember.
Been there done that, so much fun, NOT! I know you have to do it, my mistake was counting the number of spot welds removed, about 180 as I remember.
Think I’m through 12 so far. 168 to go!
Half way there. Not fun at all but given what I found it was necessary.
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More fun. Given how much of the structure is missing right now it’s probably a very good thing I have sf connectors and torque boxes
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I'm exhausted just looking at the pictures! I admire your commitment to the project. Curious on the wiper motor and arms?
I'm exhausted just looking at the pictures! I admire your commitment to the project. Curious on the wiper motor and arms?
Thanks! It’s a pain! Curious about what? The brackets, motor and sealed points looks shockingly good and the bolts don’t all match so I assume it has been messed with. I left the assembly attached when I pulled the lower cowl but have since removed them.

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Man, that's a lot of work just to get a better view of the wiring behind the dash!;)

Looks good, though. I know it sucks to find the rust holes around the cowl but at least it justifies you taking the time to pull it all apart.
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Props to you for tackling that. Looks like a hell of a lot of work. You started with a nice car and it's going to be a really nice car once complete. Keep up the good work!
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To prove that I don’t just tell you guys to do stupid things I also do them myself, I no longer have any wiring or switches on or behind my dash. I should probably figure out if I’m going to black out my interior so I don’t need to do it again with the car assembled.
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To prove that I don’t just tell you guys to do stupid things I also do them myself, I no longer have any wiring or switches on or behind my dash. I should probably figure out if I’m going to black out my interior so I don’t need to do it agwin with the car assembled.
Just going to let you know that I have the AAW crimpers if you decide to completely rewire your car. You're welcome to borrow them -after- I get through cussing through rewiring my car! :sneaky:
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