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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sorry that I am asking for help on my first post but I am a little puzzled on a few things.
Trying to be short.....A guy is paying me to put his interior back in his car (carpet recover the low back buckets headliner and the entire dash) The car was repainted and the interior was gutted.
Now I dated a girl that had one in highschool (her dad collected them)but I never really was paying attention to the car at the time.
I have had mostly GM and currently drive this

I have most of the parts that were handed to me in boxes and bags(unmarked of course) and I will be having many more questions as I go

I bought the detroit iron disc and the Mustang interior restoration guide (good if you have a 64.5-66 but not good past that)...

the questions
Can I put the headliner in with the front and rear glass already installed or will it have to be pulled?

Is there a book that shows a step by step resto of the 69 interior?

The bows that he gave me will not fit in the holes (about 3 inches too long) and will notstand veticle agains the roof do they lean back?

What type of glue will I need to use to glue the drivers door glass back in its rear regulator channel?

Why did I take on such a project?

thanks for any help

Gone but never forgetten
25,239 Posts
To "do it right", the back glass should come out, and have a new rubber seal put in it, when it goes back in. Starting with the '69's, though, the front glass is "glued in" with mastic. DON'T attempt to take it out, as the headliner does not go below it, like it did in the previous years. Instead, there's a trim piece that goes across the top of the windshield to hold the headliner.

I've never seen a step-by-step of a '69 interior, but the bulk of it is like any other year, with the huge exceptions of the dash and front glass.

Good luck on the side glass. I've never found anything that would hold more than a couple of years, so I tossed all the '69 glue in glass in our '69's (we have 3) and put the '70 bolt in glass in them.

9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you so much for the replies so far. I suspected that the front glass could stay although I have been told by others that it needed to be removed. I did see where it has a trim piece that goes across (missing) because a few screws were hanging down.

There are 4 bows for the headliner and the ends have (best guess) yellow, orange, and 2 that are black or dark blue?

They Float? What are the holes in the side panels above the door glass for? I am probably going to have to post pics of this. So do I ignore the holes and slip the rods over the the top of the panel behind it, rather than use the holes?
thanks again.

3,824 Posts
The rods do have a particular order and thus the reason for the color-coding and are insterted in the holes above the door glass.

A trick I learned from Johnpro last year when I installed my headliner:
There are two factory small wires that attach the rear-most bow to the roof support near the back glass. These are there so the headliner does not pull to far forward. There are two holes in the header/roof support near the w/s which Ford did not use. Once the rods are installed on the headliner and attached to the body and the rear bow is held in place by the rear wires attached to the rear roof header, take some wire and carefully poke it through the rod sleeve for the front-most rod and you can 'pull' the headliner forward and make it tight then tie the wires to those 2 unused holes near the w/s. This places the stress for holding the headliner on the the wires and you can glue the remaining front flap to the w/s header as designed without stressing the glue point.

2,169 Posts
I'm putting together a comprehensive guide of instructions to do full 69/70 interior restorations, but it's not complete enough to help you right now.

A good order of installation is:
Sailpanels w/interior lights
roof rail welting
roofrail weatherstrips
Rear Window
Windshield pillar covers
door and 1/4 glass
kick panel vents
pedal support assembly
firewall insulation
emergency brake asby
heater box asby
lower dash asby
instrument cluster
door post welting
rear quarter interior panels (big fiberglass parts)
rear seats
dashpad & windshield (I save these till the end incase I have to troubleshoot electrical problems)
front seats
sill plates (save till the very last to avoid damage if using new ones)

NOte: The sail panels are also glued in behind the rear window as well as the headliner.

Stand the header bows on end. They are installed in the car with the shortest in the front and the longest in the back. THey fit tight to the roof once installed. there is also supposed to be 2 stiff steel wires that hold the rear bow the correct distance from the rear window. the new headliner will set the distance between the others when its installed properly. As I recall they all are held straight up except for the rear one, which angles towards the rear of the car. (the big hole above the quarter windows is for the seat belts. there is also 4 coat hooks. I recommend installing bolts / screws in these holes before you install the headliner. this will help you locate the holes after the headliner is in.

A very very good set of instructions on how to install a new headliner is in the Mustang Restoration handbook by Don Taylor ($20). You should get his book. its available from all the mustang repo parts vendors.

Also visit my webpage and look for the 1969 Mustang Sportsroof project (not the LE600 Mustang Sportsroof project). on pages 21-23 I show how I installed the interior on a 69 fastback. Note: put the seat belts in before the rear trim goes in.

The best way to reglue the door glass (and it can be done correctly) is to take a dremel tool and grind out all of the old adhesive from the brackets. you need shiney metal. then fill the channels with urethane windshield adhesive. Make sure the glass is very clean. use alcohol. window cleaner will leave a residue. the brackets are glued in exaclty 3/4" away from the outside edges (I use masking take as a guide).

Resto secret #1: (shhh don't tell Johnpro, I want me to give me his old glue-in glass)
Cut 4 lengths of 5/8 heater hose about 1 3/4" long. then cut a slit down them. insert them over the vertical window guide rails in the doors. slide the mall the way to the bottom. they will act as extra stoppers and prevent the glass from being forced out of the brackets that are glued to the glass.
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