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Gotta love it when a typo gets you a trans and a 100.00 discount to boot.
About 13 years ago I bought a 94 f150 on ebay that was at used car dealer local to me. It was listed as a 5.8L 5 spd, which I knew was highly unlikely but I was more than happy to have a 5.0L 5 spd so I bid anyway. Of course I didn't tell the dealer that, I feigned outrage and demanded he make it right when it turned out to "only be a 5.0L". I got about 25% knocked off.

I miss that truck.
 

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Aw yeee :cool: Next up, 10R80 lol
Using the stock shifter to control it seems like a great idea now instead of paying $400 to integrate. Can you imagine that six months ago, a $400 shifter and $1000 trans controller seemed like a good idea?
As a non PHD holding ex member of the Intel Engineering staff I friggin LOVE me some bluetooth! I may just play around with a bluetooth setup to mount on the steering wheel to allow operation of the sport feature without releasing the wheel. There are a few shifter knobs with momentary switches pre-installed for linelock, nitrous, etc. While I love Lokar quality, I can't see paying that kind of money for a shifter and 2 micro switches. Some folks may disagree, but I think a more traditional shifter and something integrated into the wheel for sport mode would be the way to go.
 

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Aw yeee :cool: Next up, 10R80 lol
Using the stock shifter to control it seems like a great idea now instead of paying $400 to integrate. Can you imagine that six months ago, a $400 shifter and $1000 trans controller seemed like a good idea?
Hey now...I just paid $300 for a short shifter assembly for the MT82 a few months back...the sticker shock of performance parts these days(or actually just parts that alleviate factory shortcomings)
 

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Discussion Starter · #585 ·
Hey now...I just paid $300 for a short shifter assembly for the MT82 a few months back...the sticker shock of performance parts these days(or actually just parts that alleviate factory shortcomings)
Maybe not relevant to a stock-powered setup, but a slipped clutch from too much power will run you another $500, plus another $500 for a lightweight flywheel. These parts, they add up.
 

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Maybe not relevant to a stock-powered setup, but a slipped clutch from too much power will run you another $500, plus another $500 for a lightweight flywheel. These parts, they add up.
Haha...lucky I have a v6...my clutch and flywheel "upgrades" amounted to using stock Coyote stuff. The v8 flywheel is about half the weight of the v6 unit, and the clutch is probably a 40% torque holding increase for my engine. I think I paid $80 for the combo...some 1k mile v8 unit a salvage yard had sitting on its shelf. Guess someone wrecked the car.
 

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I felt like a dipshit bolting my 2 piece billet onto a 4 banger, and then slapping on my faceplated TKO-600 OVERKILL! I just needed something for mock up LOL! All that stuff is for the 351W. I do have a nice Fox billet steel zero balance for the Eco, but didn't feel like going to storage to grab it. I love the fact that the Coyote 5.0 flywheel is a bolt-on upgrade for the 3.7, I'm hoping that holds true for the 3.5 Eco as well. It would make sense as the 3.5 is also 8 bolt and shares the same pattern as the 'yote. I was concerned as to balance, diameter, and tooth count/pitch.

As far as the earlier conversation on the 6R sport mode . I think I have come up with a wireless option for the Up/Down that we can also integrate the cruise control Resume/Set into. Mount the receiver in the dash and wire it accordingly. As the older columns have no provisions for a clock spring setup or power to the wheel, a small power supply (probably a small lithium button battery) for the wireless side will be needed. If the battery goes dead, no harm no foul, as neither cruise nor sport shifter function is critical for the safe operation of the vehicle. Cruise will still disengage by slight pressure on the brake pedal as usual. I would also keep the cruise on/off switch hardwired on the dash as we had previously discussed.

Hope y'all had a Happy Easter
Bill
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Discussion Starter · #588 · (Edited)
After some reflection, having the manumatic function isn't totally necessary for me as long as the normal and sport modes are both well-tuned for what I want. I barely use it in my beater G37. One thing I might try is to use a stock C4 shifter with the 6R80, like this Cougar owner did. Use the regular 'dot' mode for normal, and the green dot for sport, with a limiter to prevent the transmission from going any further. The part used is Performance Automatic PASS53104. If wireless buttons clipped to the steering wheel can make it work, great. Bonus for not having to use some monstrosity of a console to cover the 6R shifter.


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After some reflection, having the manumatic function isn't totally necessary for me as long as the normal and sport modes are both well-tuned for what I want. I barely use it in my beater G37. One thing I might try is to use a stock C4 shifter with the 6R80, like this Cougar owner did. Use the regular 'dot' mode for normal, and the green dot for sport, with a limiter to prevent the transmission from going any further. The part used is Performance Automatic PASS53104. If wireless buttons clipped to the steering wheel can make it work, great. Bonus for not having to use some monstrosity of a console to cover the 6R shifter.


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Thats pretty slick.
 

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I felt like a dipshit bolting my 2 piece billet onto a 4 banger, and then slapping on my faceplated TKO-600 OVERKILL! I just needed something for mock up LOL! All that stuff is for the 351W. I do have a nice Fox billet steel zero balance for the Eco, but didn't feel like going to storage to grab it. I love the fact that the Coyote 5.0 flywheel is a bolt-on upgrade for the 3.7, I'm hoping that holds true for the 3.5 Eco as well. It would make sense as the 3.5 is also 8 bolt and shares the same pattern as the 'yote. I was concerned as to balance, diameter, and tooth count/pitch.

As far as the earlier conversation on the 6R sport mode . I think I have come up with a wireless option for the Up/Down that we can also integrate the cruise control Resume/Set into. Mount the receiver in the dash and wire it accordingly. As the older columns have no provisions for a clock spring setup or power to the wheel, a small power supply (probably a small lithium button battery) for the wireless side will be needed. If the battery goes dead, no harm no foul, as neither cruise nor sport shifter function is critical for the safe operation of the vehicle. Cruise will still disengage by slight pressure on the brake pedal as usual. I would also keep the cruise on/off switch hardwired on the dash as we had previously discussed.

Hope y'all had a Happy Easter
Bill
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Virtually bolt-on upgrade for the Coyote flywheel...the main difference is that the Cyclone(whether 3.5L or 3.7L has a dual mass flywheel, which is thicker, and the 5.0 does not...you you need a .75" spacer for the hydraulic TOB when you do the swap, but that is all, everything else is just fine...all these modern engines are internally balanced, so that isnt even a thing anymore, and the 3.7L starter turns the 5.0L ring gear without issue...just make sure you get the block/trans separator plate(speaking of which that looks identical between the 5.0 and 3.7 as well, so as long as you are talking RWD 3.5 and not FWD block that should hold true for the ecoboost too)
 

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Turbocluck, what price point are you shooting for with a full bolt in kit?
Arden
I'll have to figure all that out after I figure out what all it will take to do a complete install... I'd hate to throw pricing out, just to find out that something major has to be added to make it all work. I will tell you that we are looking at several different "levels" of "kits", from just a mount kit, or just an engine management kit. to a full bore weekend bolt-in kit from mounts to engine management, and everything in between. We will also sell most of the items as separate packages, and of course we will also be happy to supply replacement bits and pieces for our kits if they were to get damaged or misplaced. I'm still not sure how we would go about doing the harnesses, send me yours and I'll modify it, or simply supply the new donor harness myself at a higher price point. What would you consider a decent price on a PCM and full drop on harness? I find it best to ask what folks are willing to pay, than to arbitrarily decide what I feel it's worth. I can build a 1000 of these kits and have not a darn one sell due to ridiculous pricing, or I could lose my shirt... LOL! I'd like to be somewhere in the middle. Honestly, Arden, throw out some pricing that you would be comfortable paying and I'll add it to the list. It seems most "most" folks try to be as reasonable as possible when asked what they would be willing to pay, some want everything for free... just gotta wait, look at the total picture, then figure out what folks would pay for it. I will also say this, Ford wants ~$450.00 for a stone stock OEM harness. a typical set of adjustable motor mounts for a small block Ford from Summit $275.00, etc. A Quicktime bell is $1100.00. Rest assured, as hotrodders and Ford fanatics, we will make it as affordable and easy to install as possible.
 

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Closer and closer... We finally set/welded the 2.X in exactly where we want her and have started the process of designing billet motor plates for the mounts. We are basing our setup loosely off the Ron Morris SBF mounts, but the main body and plate assembly will be billet for weight savings and CNC'd for proper fit to the block... With and without a P/S bracket incorporated in on the passenger side. As we discussed in a previous post... The Direct Injection pump clearance issue was expected and calculated into the engines positioning. Once the motor comes back out we will trim the DFI pump housing on the CNC adding about 3/4" of clearance between the pump housing and firewall. We will be constructing a new bolt in crossmember to replace the existing bolt in unit. We are also toying with a different pan design to increase capacity. Basically, she fits like a fine suit, just needs a bit of custom tailoring.
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Best of all, shifter is centered up, and our mounts are fully adjustable with 1.5" of forward travel and 1" side to side. Motor sits level with the shock towers and is COMPLETELY bolt in.
 

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Closer and closer... We finally set/welded the 2.X in exactly where we want her and have started the process of designing billet motor plates for the mounts. We are basing our setup loosely off the Ron Morris SBF mounts, but the main body and plate assembly will be billet for weight savings and CNC'd for proper fit to the block... With and without a P/S bracket incorporated in on the passenger side. As we discussed in a previous post... The Direct Injection pump clearance issue was expected and calculated into the engines positioning. Once the motor comes back out we will trim the DFI pump housing on the CNC adding about 3/4" of clearance between the pump housing and firewall. We will be constructing a new bolt in crossmember to replace the existing bolt in unit. We are also toying with a different pan design to increase capacity. Basically, she fits like a fine suit, just needs a bit of custom tailoring. View attachment 789596 View attachment 789597 View attachment 789598 View attachment 789599 View attachment 789600 View attachment 789601 View attachment 789603 View attachment 789606 View attachment 789607 View attachment 789608

Best of all, shifter is centered up, and our mounts are fully adjustable with 1.5" of forward travel and 1" side to side. Motor sits level with the shock towers and is COMPLETELY bolt in.
The oil pan issue is actually the reason I bought Z-Ray's unassembled kit and welded it myself, I was able to clock the crossmember slightly off vertical to give me roughly 1/2" of clearance there. The funny thing is that net time I pull the engine I will be slotting my frame plates as well...I cursed many times wishing for an extra 1/4" clearance to one side or the other installing the headers.
 

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My JD2 model 32 is clunky and cannot do compound bends or back to back offsets. I'll probably just do a 60 degree bend on each end of some .250 wall 1.5" DOM and miter the ends. Weld on some bolt plates and that will gain me the 2" I needed then some. We are also going to put a jack point and cleat on it to protect the alloy pan hence the heavy tube choice.... well that, and I have a metric ton of the stuff... The above pics are with the trans mount set to the extreme rear of its travel. We will set the motor plates to the same. From there its all forward adjustment for different firewall designs. I feel that we can squeeze another quart into the pan if we tried. More oil the better on these little motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #597 · (Edited)
Bill, what do you figure the odds are of clearing a stock-style PS ram? It looks like it might interfere with the transmission bell...

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I have no clue as I don't run that stock BS. As the scattershield is in the OEM bellhousing position I would assume so, but then again, Cars running a Lakewood scatter-shield typically aren't the type to be running OEM P/S especially a system known to leak like an excited old man and foul track surfaces. I guess a guy could try, but by the time you rebuild that pile of tears you could have a Borgeson Box and be done with it. Embrace the Borg... resistance is futile. By the way, I have no idea what that last mess is, but it isn't a gen 1 Mustang.If it is, I've never seen anything like that in any of mine.

Bill
 

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Closer and closer... We finally set/welded the 2.X in exactly where we want her and have started the process of designing billet motor plates for the mounts. We are basing our setup loosely off the Ron Morris SBF mounts, but the main body and plate assembly will be billet for weight savings and CNC'd for proper fit to the block... With and without a P/S bracket incorporated in on the passenger side. As we discussed in a previous post... The Direct Injection pump clearance issue was expected and calculated into the engines positioning. Once the motor comes back out we will trim the DFI pump housing on the CNC adding about 3/4" of clearance between the pump housing and firewall. We will be constructing a new bolt in crossmember to replace the existing bolt in unit. We are also toying with a different pan design to increase capacity. Basically, she fits like a fine suit, just needs a bit of custom tailoring. View attachment 789596 View attachment 789597 View attachment 789598 View attachment 789599 View attachment 789600 View attachment 789601 View attachment 789603 View attachment 789606 View attachment 789607 View attachment 789608

Best of all, shifter is centered up, and our mounts are fully adjustable with 1.5" of forward travel and 1" side to side. Motor sits level with the shock towers and is COMPLETELY bolt in.

I have to ask, what is your center to center bolt measurement(outer shock tower bolt to mount bolt) for your shock-tower mounts? I suspect your plates may actually fit my 3.7L too. If that is the case(when taking the slots into account). I think I would like to buy a set of your plates. They are a bit prettier than mine, and would allow a bolt up option to be able to slide my engine around a bit side to side without me having to revisit that particular piece:

 

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Discussion Starter · #600 ·
Making the mount brackets modular could help with the 3.5L situation. Lots of possibilities there.
 
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