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"I have to ask, what is your center to center bolt measurement(outer shock tower bolt to mount bolt) for your shock-tower mounts? I suspect your plates may actually fit my 3.7L too. If that is the case(when taking the slots into account). I think I would like to buy a set of your plates. They are a bit prettier than mine, and would allow a bolt up option to be able to slide my engine around a bit side to side without me having to revisit that particular piece: "

We can make you a set when we start the 3.5 prototyping. You can test fit them, If you like 'em yell it from the roof tops, if you see any issues, let us know and we will ship a new part with the revisions. I was actually going to hit you up as a beta tester for these on a 3.5/3.7. Hunter is finalizing the 2.3 design today and hopefully we will have a full set printed tonight or tomorrow. The new design will be able to incorporate a crossmember as well.. For those folks that don't have one already. I am worried that the width and positioning of the 3.5/3.7 will not allow the longer 2.3 mounts we have to fit, we will probably need to go back to the shorter steel style in the previous pics. the revised plates on the 2.3 are a bit longer and drop the engine waaay down. I'll get pics up of the prot0type 2.3 mounts tonight. Right now, I'm trying to locate healthcare bennies for the family.

Bill
 

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I have to ask, what is your center to center bolt measurement(outer shock tower bolt to mount bolt) for your shock-tower mounts? I suspect your plates may actually fit my 3.7L too. If that is the case(when taking the slots into account). I think I would like to buy a set of your plates. They are a bit prettier than mine, and would allow a bolt up option to be able to slide my engine around a bit side to side without me having to revisit that particular piece:

WOW, my PC or this site is smoking better **** than me... Just dawned on me what you were asking... The plates in the pics are from my Ron Morris kit and were basically using them as measuring points to the block. The 2.3 plates will need to be a bit longer and slung down considerably. With that being said, the Ron Morris plates are very close to what we are looking to do with the big V6. As you noticed they are darn close to perfect. SO the above offer still stands, or we can send you a set of plates when we get them done. But that is gonna be a bit.
 

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WOW, my PC or this site is smoking better **** than me... Just dawned on me what you were asking... The plates in the pics are from my Ron Morris kit and were basically using them as measuring points to the block. The 2.3 plates will need to be a bit longer and slung down considerably. With that being said, the Ron Morris plates are very close to what we are looking to do with the big V6. As you noticed they are darn close to perfect. SO the above offer still stands, or we can send you a set of plates when we get them done. But that is gonna be a bit.
Will be happy to test fit that stuff(although my setup isn't going to allow me to go any further back than I already am due to the headers being finished, I do have some leeway in other directions). It is kinda funny that the RMP plates may actually be bolt on for me though(possibly). I was just struck by how close the height looks to be(hard to judge though, going off of the 90 made by the 2 inner bolts aligned to the frame rail, and it looks like the RMP plates don't make use of the top inner hole for whatever reason....not sure why you wouldn't want to distribute the weight as much as possible)
 

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Will be happy to test fit that stuff(although my setup isn't going to allow me to go any further back than I already am due to the headers being finished, I do have some leeway in other directions). It is kinda funny that the RMP plates may actually be bolt on for me though(possibly). I was just struck by how close the height looks to be(hard to judge though, going off of the 90 made by the 2 inner bolts aligned to the frame rail, and it looks like the RMP plates don't make use of the top inner hole for whatever reason....not sure why you wouldn't want to distribute the weight as much as possible)
Yours is the closest to running/driving and I trust you to be candid. We were looking at the lack of a third hole and concluded the clamping force to hold the plates would be sufficient as the RMPs have held some high HP/TQ mills in check in a ton of higher powered vehicles. With that said, there is absolutely no reason I can see not to use the additional hole. Unlike RMP, We will be using counter sunk hardware so the third hole will be handy for a third clamping point. Applied torque distributed across three bolts can be slightly less than the typical 2 bolts with the same clamping force produced. I have found that countersunk hardware holds well, but can easily be stripped at the drive if too much torque is applied for clamping. Haven't had my coffee this AM, hope that makes sense, 'cause I think I confused myself there a bit LOL! 2 bolt BAD, 3 bolt GOOD! ;-)
 

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Yours is the closest to running/driving and I trust you to be candid. We were looking at the lack of a third hole and concluded the clamping force to hold the plates would be sufficient as the RMPs have held some high HP/TQ mills in check in a ton of higher powered vehicles. With that said, there is absolutely no reason I can see not to use the additional hole. Unlike RMP, We will be using counter sunk hardware so the third hole will be handy for a third clamping point. Applied torque distributed across three bolts can be slightly less than the typical 2 bolts with the same clamping force produced. I have found that countersunk hardware holds well, but can easily be stripped at the drive if too much torque is applied for clamping. Haven't had my coffee this AM, hope that makes sense, 'cause I think I confused myself there a bit LOL! 2 bolt BAD, 3 bolt GOOD! ;-)
From a practical perspective I understand leaving out the 3rd hole if not strictly needed since it does allow an extra inch of space or so for convoluted header designs...but that is assuming a triangular shape rather than a shape like I used....a triangular shape is certain to be stronger though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #608 ·
Excellent.
I presume there will be full OBD port connectivity, yes? Gotta tune it for that massive torque spike somehow!
 

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Excellent.
I presume there will be full OBD port connectivity, yes? Gotta tune it for that massive torque spike somehow!
Yes, no different than any stock PCM, we just removed the Passive Anti Theft System. We are getting close to firing this biotch off with all in house components and engineering. Any flash tuner such as SCT, COBB, HPT should be able to tune it without any issues regarding PATS.
 

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We now have steering! WOOT! All factory manual V8 components except the Baer Trackerz and 67 Cougar Spindles. The steering is fully functional and turns a full lock to lock without contact. The PowerMaster infiniclock starter clears the block perfectly. We are still playing with mount styles but we have pretty much settled on what you see in the driver's side. Passenger side oil drain is givin' us fits, but we think we have that handled as well. the Power / Relay box and FMIC harness are complete. Tomorrow well drop the steering and pan. install the drain plug bung, put some dead dino juice in 'er and get her ready for her first start attempt this weekend. We will have full video of the successful fire-up... or you won't hear from me for a week as I have a nervous breakdown.prepped

Looks like a decent fit to me... Full dresser pics coming up, turbo and all accessories installed soon. Time for about 3 bowls and bed.
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Ah, you have the manual v8 drag link in....is there a way you can get a measurement for me of the location it occupies?(all I have is the I6 version and its different). I am looking for the distance from the bottom of the frame rail and from say the back of the LCA mount area...mostly I am looking for vertical position though, so bottom of the frame rail(as measured in front of the curve)
 

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Ah, you have the manual v8 drag link in....is there a way you can get a measurement for me of the location it occupies?(all I have is the I6 version and its different). I am looking for the distance from the bottom of the frame rail and from say the back of the LCA mount area...mostly I am looking for vertical position though, so bottom of the frame rail(as measured in front of the curve)
Sure thing bud, I'll get those tomorrow. This is the Falcon version. It's 2" narrower than the stang, but I believe that is the only difference.
 

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Ah, you have the manual v8 drag link in....is there a way you can get a measurement for me of the location it occupies?(all I have is the I6 version and its different). I am looking for the distance from the bottom of the frame rail and from say the back of the LCA mount area...mostly I am looking for vertical position though, so bottom of the frame rail(as measured in front of the curve)
5.25" draglink flat (@ inner rod end) to flat (control arm pick up point behind bolt head.)
2.25" (CL of draglink @ inner rod end) to frame just in front of curve.
Both measurements taken on the passenger (right) side of the assembly.
 

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I didn't realize you were a shop or Holley/QT distributor... Since they market a bell, shouldn't they market the remainder of the bits as well? I would think that they would at least have a solution before dumping money into tooling up for this motor... Bells are useless if you can't get a clutch or TB off the shelf. They surely had some documentation as to what bits to use instead of custom made $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ bits?
Ok, I have been away for a while but have been crazy busy at work. I now currently have the quicktime bellhousing and a RAM Clutch to go behind the ECO for our XR4Ti project, and paln to do a dry fit this week.

So the deal on the Clutch is, Holley/Ram Contracted a clutch manufacturer to build the clutch, but apparently the market was not there for the kit so has since discontinued the clutch.
Holley still had a couple in stock but not for sale, I was able to get my hands on one and will be trial fitting to make sure it will work with our intended TKX setup.
 

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That is is exactly why we are using all Fox/Coyote parts behind our Eco swaps, no chance of the supply drying up... ever. That and the surface area of the clutch is approx.30% larger on a 10.5" vs the 9" Eco flywheel. More surface area = better grip and less load across the PP and old leg joints. We simply can't trust the big-boys to support a grassroots movement like ours. Once we succeed and make this a bit more mainstream, I have no doubt that the "aftermarket" vultures will step in again once they smell money. I know I am patenting everything I make just in case.

Truly sucks that you are obligated to a now discontinued clutch. What plans do you have for a replacement clutch once your Eco smokes the one-off? You may want to take the plate and PP you have now to a local friction surface relining company and have a couple disks done for back-ups. I had a Buick GN motor in my s10 years ago and needed a custom clutch. Once I found a place to make them, I had three done. Ended up using 2 by the time I sold the truck. The 3rd was sent along in a box.

Good luck with your dry install, can't wait to see pics bud!

Bill

20210402_130819.jpg
 

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Truly sucks that you are obligated to a now discontinued clutch. What plans do you have for a replacement clutch once your Eco smokes the one-off? You may wan to take the plate and PP you have now to a local friction surface relining company and have a couple disks done for back-ups.

Good luck with your dry install, can't wait to see pics bud!

Bill
I contacted the manufacturer.... They are relining the disc to there specs rather than the specs called out by the big guys... I misspoke it was a Hays clutch not Ram. The plan is also to get me a new pressure plate with there name on it. I am not planing on making gobs of power with this build and should have no issue having the clutch rebuilt if/when needed. However you are correct and I will have at least one spare disc commissioned.

I completely understand the reasoning for going the direction you are going, but for our application hopefully we will be able to keep everything tighter and more compact for the home it is going to live in.

Also I am Very Mutch interested in your PATS workaround and would love to talk to you about this and what wires are absolutely nessasary in my harness. I have already trimmed the fat on my harness and am down to what I believe would be necessary to make it run if I had a proper ECU configuration.
 

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Longhorn - your last post disappeared. Hays and Ram are both great companies in my book. Hopefully they will offer something for the guys using the QT bell.

Post some pics when you can.
Bill
 

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Longhorn - your last post disappeared. Hays and Ram are both great companies in my book. Hopefully they will offer something for the guys using the QT bell.

Post some pics when you can.
Bill
Yeah I made an edited the post regarding the PATS workaround waiting for moderators to review. I also sent you a PM.
 

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Busy day... Cooper put on her best bib and tucker. We needed her skin on to locate the grille, etc. and weld in the tabs for mounting. Pics are pretty self explanitory, we also needed to get some of the Ecos supporting goodies mounted and placed. We pulled the fiberglass out of storage so we can get the tubular bash bars and FMIC/oilcooler mounts done as well. Not really sure if the FMIC will allow stock bumper placement. I guess we'll find out tomorrow.
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