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Well so far I am utterly un-impressed with the Lokar 6R "sport shifter". Huge chunk of wasted money in my humble opinion. Would have been money and time ahead simply using the 4R shifter I had on the shelf. Oh well, hindsight and all that. I own it now, might as well slap it in when the time comes I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #643 ·
What's the issue with it? I honestly think the stock shifter is the better choice, the Lokar is more for people who need to use the Baumann control unit.
 

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What's the issue with it? I honestly think the stock shifter is the better choice, the Lokar is more for people who need to use the Baumann control unit.
Considering my "stock" shifter was a manual 3 on the tree... The Lokar is overkill, doesn't fit in a boot, cover, hell, you'd have to weld a flipped over wheel barrow to the hump to cover it. The cable enters the shifter ABOVE the floor unless you opt to mount the shifter below the floor, which will need 6 inches of clearance BELOW the hump. There is a really big chunk of aluminum (6R) under that hump. There is no "mid mount" its either all in or up top. So in ANY chassis meant to look remotely period correct you are hosed. Sad that they rushed this thing to market without looking at their current line-up and customer needs. I have yet to see a single one mounted and looking "right". Your quite correct. This shifter was and is designed strictly for the aftermarket controller 'yote crowd as the super special "Sport Mode" is ONLY for map shifting which is what the Quick6 is known for. It is literally extra weight if running off the Ford PCM as it does not give 2 ****s about "sport mode". 4 detents and 2 momentary switches are all you need to run a 6R with a Ford PCM. Once I have the 6R spinnin a drive shaft, and shifting correctly (proof of concept) I'll more than likely sell it and the shifter as well as all the other BS it takes to put the 6R in a Falcon as a package and be done with it. As I said earlier, for the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, this thing is underwhelming at best. IF I change my mind once it's installed, I'll be more than happy to retract that, but as it sits, I feel it was a huge waste of money that could have been spent elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #645 ·
Considering my "stock" shifter was a manual 3 on the tree... The Lokar is overkill, doesn't fit in a boot, cover, hell, you'd have to weld a flipped over wheel barrow to the hump to cover it. The cable enters the shifter ABOVE the floor unless you opt to mount the shifter below the floor, which will need 6 inches of clearance BELOW the hump. There is a really big chunk of aluminum (6R) under that hump. There is no "mid mount" its either all in or up top. So in ANY chassis meant to look remotely period correct you are hosed. Sad that they rushed this thing to market without looking at their current line-up and customer needs. I have yet to see a single one mounted and looking "right". Your quite correct. This shifter was and is designed strictly for the aftermarket controller 'yote crowd as the super special "Sport Mode" is ONLY for map shifting which is what the Quick6 is known for. It is literally extra weight if running off the Ford PCM as it does not give 2 ****s about "sport mode". 4 detents and 2 momentary switches are all you need to run a 6R with a Ford PCM. Once I have the 6R spinnin a drive shaft, and shifting correctly (proof of concept) I'll more than likely sell it and the shifter as well as all the other BS it takes to put the 6R in a Falcon as a package and be done with it. As I said earlier, for the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, this thing is underwhelming at best. IF I change my mind once it's installed, I'll be more than happy to retract that, but as it sits, I feel it was a huge waste of money that could have been spent elsewhere.
I meant the EcoBoost Mustang shifter, which is probably around the same size but 1/10th of the price.
I agree, the Lokar is an awkward boat anchor and a console is essential, which is what drove me to want to adapt my 65's shifter. Some hotrod guy got it somewhat stealth into his FFR Cobra, I'm not sure we have the same luxury though. Definitely not without cutting, anyway.

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And there it is... Boom, mounted and plumbed. Where's all the nay-sayers now? 1/4" clearance on the HPI pump WITHOUT trimming, everything clears. There is enough room to easily mount an MPFI plate as well. Again I have not cut a damn thing off this car to mount the 2.3EB with our mounts and adapter plate. Even got the downpipe fully welded and installed. Now, with any issues documented and photographed we can remove the engine and make the changes we feel will allow more adjustability. At the time of this posting the engine/trans mating surface is in the original 289 position and the TKO is mounted in the factory Falcon crossmember. You Mustang boys may have some trimming to do, but it will be minor if any. I call it a win so far. Obviously we have a ton of welding, detail work and painting to do. We will start on the airbox tomorrow and hopefully get the core support back together and welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #648 · (Edited)
Ahh, love it. The clearance between the fan shroud and the engine gives me an idea. Maybe the radiator could be spaced back a tiny bit to jam a thin intercooler before the radiator, on the engine side of the cradle. Something like the Golf R intercooler, perhaps? Some shrouding would probably be necessary, but using that extra room is another way to avoid hacking.

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Discussion Starter · #650 ·
The European company that came out with the Equinox/Vue EPAS controller came out with EcoBoost swap wiring kits, priced pretty well:
 

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The European company that came out with the Equinox/Vue EPAS controller came out with EcoBoost swap wiring kits, priced pretty well:
looks like a knock off of the controls pack minus the plastic crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #652 ·
looks like a knock off of the controls pack minus the plastic crap.
That's my impression too, but it has the Mustang base map (and I presume flashability) and is $1,000 cheaper.
 

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Yup, I hear ya. I'm already in contact with him and will probably order one to see what's up. I'm all for a cheaper setup than the FMS controls pack. All the BS plastic is just added landfill fodder as far as I'm concerned.
 

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Can you believe this took all day? All the panels are cut and will get tacked in tomorrow. Still trying to come up with a logo or something for the lid.
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Thank you and kudos for guessing that off 3 pics of tinker toys LOL! Not as critical on a MAP or speed density setup, but I prefer my air to be pulled in not forced in. Ironic on a "Forced Induction" build I guess LOL! I've incorporated a nice 6- 4" velocity stack to direct air into it. Then the engine can sip or gulp as it pleases. The filter can flow enough to keep my boosted 351W happy ( these are spares). Airflow is such: 6" to 4" v stack. 4" opening on the filter. Cool filtered air moves into airbox and is pulled through the 3" aluminum 45 and 90 to the 2.5" turbo intake. Short, sweet, and constantly transitioning down in size towards the turbo/TB. I like to keep my intake tract as free of bends and bottle necks as possible. I'm a "bit less" worried about that on the pressurized cold side, but I try to follow the same rule as much as possible.
 

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One of the "perks" of working out of a car-port... mother nature dictates yer schedule... Raining today so all the racks and workbenches are stuffed around the lift. Played with 3.5 turbo positioning and mocked up the air box real quick. Hunter's steadily upgrading the CNC shack with Ethernet and additional circuits. New tool on its way so stay tuned.
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Things you can do with an old RedBox kiosk...
 

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Just ordered in a complete 68 Mustang floor pan to destroy. Coops is just too far gone and by the time I fix all the rot and enlarge the tunnel I'm money ahead going this route. I am also hoping to integrate some kind of console like I have in my 67. Picture below is 65 Falcon / 65 Mustang / 68 Mustang. I'll be picking up new 68 black carpet as well. I doubt Coop's will fit after the new floors go in.
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If I can make a suggestion: The bellmouth/velocity stack as you have it now is useless because while it does a great job of smoothing airflow into the airbox...that smooth airflow is broken into turbulence again as son as it hits the filter. A better solution would be to enclose the airbox entirely(with removeable lid of course) and where you have the bellmouth right now...place a large flat air filter and where you have the cone filter right now, replace it with the velocity stack. That way it smooths the airflow where it needs to be smoothed...going into the turbo compressor housing:



This is a Holset HE351VE turbo...pretty neat turbo(I have one of these myself) ...note the built-in velocity stack.

To be truthful, this little reversal isn't likely to do much, but when you want to squeeze every last bit of efficiency out of an intake setup you don't want a filter breaking up airflow...you want a velocity stack behind a filter(with at least 3/4" of clearance to said filter) smoothing already filtered air.


P.S. If you are chopping the tunnel to fit the trans, you will likely end up having to make a custom console like I did:

 

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The outlet of the box will have a suedo v stack. The pictures may be confusing without a first person vantage point. Air will enter the box via the 4" v-stack. It will exit the box via a 3" v-stack post / in the filter. Shape of the filter isn't critical here, surface area is, and to be honest, if I ever do drive her in inclement weather I'd prefer the filter stay dry-ish. Hopefully this cut away gives better perspective. Besides the agressive look and "in yer face" factor, the black external v-stack will provide a smoothed contoured inlet into the box, and the V-stack or bellmouth filter should smooth the transition into the 12" of 3" pipe before the turbo inlet. Hope thats clear as mud LOL! Whatcha think Wicked?
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