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Yup, she's a moose LOL... I just ordered the exact same engine stand my boosted 351W is sitting on for this "little" V6. It'll be interesting to have them sitting side by side. Yeah, Hunter has that weird oil filter elbow on his list of things to design. We are also putting a real P/S pump on it and relocating the alternator. As far as an A/C compressor, I'll probably put a Sanden S7 on it as those are my go to and Sally will be running a Vintage Air system.
You wont be able to fit an AC compressor in the stock location...it will be into the passenger side shock tower(assuming the ecoboost compressor sits in the same place as the 3.7l). I haven't figured out an AC compressor mount yet...but I assume I will have to drop it low to match the alternator on the other side(for reference the alternator only has 1/4" clearance from the sway bar bracket, you can also see the oil filter relocated to a bracket bolted to the engine sitting where the alternator used to...even angled as it is, it barely clears the lower radiator hose. The starter cable you see on the left of the crank pulley is the only real possibility for an AC compressor mounting location to be able to clear the shock tower and LCA mounting point):



I wouldn't even bother to attempt a conventional power steering pump if I were you...you are far better off with EPAS in the column if you have to have PS....the realities of working with a v6 in place of the longer v8. The other alternative is to mount the 3.7L further forward than I did...but then you lose a lot of the advantage of better weight distribution.
 

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I plan on using this Sanden SD7 compressor myself, I feel it has the best chance of fitting, a lot easier to mount than most, the longer mounting ears will allow it to tuck closer to the oil pan...at least in theory. Upper mount will be easy, but the lower mount will be tricky considering it will need some type of tensioning ability built in and there isn't a handy oil pan boss on the FWD pan on the passenger side like there is on the driver side.
 

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Maybe a little off topic: Have you looked at an electrically driven A/C compressor? mounting options are endless.

Here is an example:


I've been intending to do some more research into how to get it to work. My A/C knowledge is lacking.
 

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Maybe a little off topic: Have you looked at an electrically driven A/C compressor? mounting options are endless.

Here is an example:


I've been intending to do some more research into how to get it to work. My A/C knowledge is lacking.
Never even thought of that...but I will bet its very high amp draw...would require a 200amp alternator and you would probably need real PWM alternator control instead of just a simple voltage regulator...I need to research it further though...sonds like a great solution if its even marginally affordable.
 

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Here's a link to the compressor they used in the video (bit pricey). They say 30 - 55 amps.

Here is another compressor I found on an EV conversion forum:
the 12v model show's 20 -41 amps.
so It might not be that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
As far as width and height compared to a 351w...they are almost identical, to within 1/4"....well, for the 3.7L, I expect the ecoboost will be 2" or so shorter due to manifold design. I do have the older ecoboost intake manifold from when I was trying to find a way to adapt it to work with injectors...before the ITBs, if you need it(not sure if there is any flow difference, but the plenum looks larger on the older manifold). One thing you will find is that the stock oil filter adapter ends up in the shock tower...I had to use a relocation kit, essentially swapping the alternator and filter locations.
Yup, she's a moose LOL... I just ordered the exact same engine stand my boosted 351W is sitting on for this "little" V6. It'll be interesting to have them sitting side by side. Yeah, Hunter has that weird oil filter elbow on his list of things to design. We are also putting a real P/S pump on it and relocating the alternator. As far as an A/C compressor, I'll probably put a Sanden S7 on it as those are my go to and Sally will be running a Vintage Air system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Better pics of the 3.5 as well as some CAD porn... There is still some scaling to be done and a bit of detail work but this is what we had envisioned for the kit. The plate and bushing housing will be milled one piece of 6061 aluminum, while the remainder of the mount will be mild steel. We are also working on adjustable height mounts for the guys that want to go dry sump or have a rack and pinion. Bushings will be poly and have a steel sleeve (missing from CAD drawing)
3.5 hub adapter.JPG 3.5l.JPG 3.5r.JPG




Daylight pics:
20210226_120044.jpg 20210226_120202.jpg 20210226_120244.jpg 20210226_120534.jpg
 

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The mounts are very similar to mine...I suggest a rubber option as well though, I chose rubber specifically because there isn't much material to work with there, poly might as well be solid, for reference, this is 550RPM with rubber:


Notice how much the chassis is moving when I move the camera under the car. I have yet to drive the car, but I am betting my rubber bushings feel like poly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The mounts are very similar to mine...I suggest a rubber option as well though, I chose rubber specifically because there isn't much material to work with there, poly might as well be solid, for reference, this is 550RPM with rubber:



Notice how much the chassis is moving when I move the camera under the car. I have yet to drive the car, but I am betting my rubber bushings feel like poly.
No problem... I'll see what I can find in rubber that spec out to the polys if not we can adjust the diameter of the hole in the billet plate if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
We found this little guy on Fleabay. Some FWD 3.5s used a belt driven P/S pump so curiosity got the best of me. The truck 3.5 gen2 at least the one I have (2020) has a different block casting and the bosses for the pump have been moved further apart to mount the A/C compressor. The bosses in the timing cover were also deleted. So... Hunter busted out his handy dandy notebook and is designing a low profile adapter to put the P/S pump right back in the same position. Its short enough to clear the shock towers, at least on paper. We are also looking at making a mount to put it on the 2.3EB as well.
I would personally install AN fittings on the inlet and out let run a remote reservoir, mount it down low and be done with it.
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Engine stand was delayed due to weather... OK... So while we had the opportunity we installed the 3.5's printed hub spacer and test fit the "AOD" as well as the "6R" flex-plates. Perfect fit so once we settle on a thickness for the adapter plate, we can adjust the hub's thickness to align the flex with the starter pinion perfectly. Pretty sure I can shove a SBF mini starter through that hole, notch, nook, whatever you want to call it LOL...

20210302_134453.jpg 20210302_134525.jpg 20210302_124117.jpg 20210302_133117.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Okay... just ordered up full schematics for the 2015-2020 3.5Eco F150. These are the years where several changes were made to the engine controls. They increased the security significantly and changed the PCM design in 2018, and then again in 2020. I'll get started on a Gen1 and Gen2 stand-alones ASAP.
 

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Okay... just ordered up full schematics for the 2015-2020 3.5Eco F150. These are the years where several changes were made to the engine controls. They increased the security significantly and changed the PCM design in 2018, and then again in 2020. I'll get started on a Gen1 and Gen2 stand-alones ASAP.
A link that may help you, I have found it to be invaluable:


Its good for mustangs anyway, I assume there are others in there somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
OK, it's been quite a while since we updated this thread. Coop and the 2.3 swap has taken up most of our time. As we have Coop torn open for the 2.X swap I decided to use her engine bay to prototype the 3.5 Raptar swap as well. As I refuse to cut the towers we have opted for remote mounting the turbos to the outside of the engine bay. While this makes the plumbing for the turbos a bit more complex, it frees up crucial real estate in the engine bay. And as this is a Gen2 the turbos are pushed to the rear of the engine in stock form. This is not ideal packaging for the Falcon's firewall so severe notching would typically be necessary for the down pipes. I have scored a set of 2014 3.5 f150 turbos to play with. They are slated for the FWD 3.5 install, but I have no issue with them being used for mockup of the RWD setup. I already have the 3.5 ]FWD mounting system in my head, I just gotta get it on paper so Hunter can create it in ACAD. It'll be alot like the 2.3 system but a bit more substantial as the motor is a beast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Getting a little more traction on the 3.5 front... I'll pop the intake tomorrow and get measurements for some adapter plate ideas. Folks seem keen on swapping the low profile RWD F150 intake to the FWD heads. Looks to me like a simple adapter plate so that's at least a start in the correct direction. LOL!
 

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Getting a little more traction on the 3.5 front... I'll pop the intake tomorrow and get measurements for some adapter plate ideas. Folks seem keen on swapping the low profile RWD F150 intake to the FWD heads. Looks to me like a simple adapter plate so that's at least a start in the correct direction. LOL!
If we are talking FWD Ecoboost 3.5 vs RWD Ecoboost 3.5, the intake manifold is a direct bolt on as far as bolt pattern goes from what I seem to remember. As far as using a Ecoboost 3.5L manifold on the non-turbo 3.5/3.7 that would require an adapter plate(which would lift manifold height back up to just as high as the NA 3.7L manifold and some creative injector mounting machined into that adapter plate. The NA 3.5/3.7L injectors mount pointing almost directly down, the Ecoboost manifold doesnt have the height or clearance to accommodate that injector angle...and changing the injector angle to point inward would be very inefficient for primary injectors(as supplemental injectors it would be ok). I have one on the shelf and tried and tried to find a good way to use it with the 3.7 and couldn't come up with much anything. Injector angle is actually why I moved the injectors inside the runners for my ITB setup...that actually gives a better than stock injector angle.
 

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View attachment 791220

Things must have changed... 2014 Taurus and 2015 Nagigator pictured.

Well, that is interesting...it looks like the manifold bolt pattern itself is shared with the 3.5/3.7 NA...but the water neck area is different than booth the RWD 3.5 ecoboost and the RWD 3.5/3.7 NA. This is the only picture I could find:



Notice on the Cyclone manifold that the water ports in the back are inline with each other. Theoretically if you cut off the water housing portion you could bolt it up to a RWD NA engine..but you would be stuck doing what I did and be forced to use an ecoboost water pipe assembly. I don't see that SHO manifold being usable at all with a RWD Ecoboost 3.5 though unless you re-route the water housing inlet through the adapter plate at an angle...of course it would be fairly easily without that FWD water housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well, that is interesting...it looks like the manifold bolt pattern itself is shared with the 3.5/3.7 NA...but the water neck area is different than booth the RWD 3.5 ecoboost and the RWD 3.5/3.7 NA. This is the only picture I could find:



Notice on the Cyclone manifold that the water ports in the back are inline with each other. Theoretically if you cut off the water housing portion you could bolt it up to a RWD NA engine..but you would be stuck doing what I did and be forced to use an ecoboost water pipe assembly. I don't see that SHO manifold being usable at all with a RWD Ecoboost 3.5 though unless you re-route the water housing inlet through the adapter plate at an angle...of course it would be fairly easily without that FWD water housing.
I'm gonna pull the intake on my 2020 to see what differences it has vs. what is pictured. Most if not all of the visible mess pictured seems to be well hidden on my 2020. Then again it's lurking in the dark reaches of the carport where few men dare travel. I NEED a friggin' shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I'm gonna pull the intake on my 2020 to see what differences it has vs. what is pictured. Most if not all of the visible mess pictured seems to be well hidden on my 2020. Then again it's lurking in the dark reaches of the carport where few men dare travel. I NEED a friggin' shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try a few hours of rolling in gravel. It get a little better with some kind of gravel shield. I may or may not be the only person on this forum who definitely know what you mean about needing a SHOP. . Right friggin now!!
 
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