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1966 289 3-speed
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I realize this is super remedial so please be kind. Of all the cars I've owned I've weirdly never needed to change a thermostat until now. My car currently has a 180 stat that was installed this summer when I had other work done but its taking longer than id like to get up to temp now that the Phoenix weather has cooled off. So I'm all set to do it this weekend and just need some tips to avoid any rookie mistakes. I have a 195 stat, gasket and sealer from Summit. My plan is to drain the coolant from the radiator about half way and remove the housing. I know the correct way to position the new stat, but I'm not sure if I need to let the sealer set or how much to torque down the bolts when I'm done.
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The current housing is NOT chrome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
On a related note, anyone know where to get a replacement hose for this radiator? I don't know the brand and I'm not sure if there is a generic replacement.
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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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all I used was a light coat of bearing grease on each side to hold the gasket and stop corrosion, never leaked. Not sure about the torque though.
 

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I'm in AZ and always use the factory stated 195 degree thermostat. I use Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I little on each side of the gasket.
 
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Where did you pick up a radiator for a 66 Mustang that has the upper hose on the driver's side?

If you're going to keep it, pull the hose and take it to an old-style auto parts store that has a couple of crusty old guys behind the counter with a bunch of binders filled with parts catalogs, etc. Maybe even a monochrome CRT monitor. Show them what you have and they'll match it up to an appropriate sized hose. Make sure you find out what that hose is for and put that info somewhere so later on you can just walk into any auto parts store and tell them what you want.
 

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I know the correct way to position the new stat, but I'm not sure if I need to let the sealer set or how much to torque down the bolts when I'm done.
The current housing is NOT chrome.
Torque for thermostat housing bolts is 12-15 Ft-lbs.
And is on page 11-10 - Part 11-5 Specifications - of the 1966 Ford Factory shop manual.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did you pick up a radiator for a 66 Mustang that has the upper hose on the driver's side?

If you're going to keep it, pull the hose and take it to an old-style auto parts store that has a couple of crusty old guys behind the counter with a bunch of binders filled with parts catalogs, etc. Maybe even a monochrome CRT monitor. Show them what you have and they'll match it up to an appropriate sized hose. Make sure you find out what that hose is for and put that info somewhere so later on you can just walk into any auto parts store and tell them what you want.
That's the PO's handy work. He was the original owner and is pushing up daisy's now, so unfortunately I have nothing to go on. I'll I know is its a 4 row and it works really well. My guess is it was installed around 10-15 years ago when the engine was overhauled.
 

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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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I don't think changing the thermostat will bring the engine up to temperature any faster. It will get to 180 in the same amount of time. As far as a replacement hose, have you looked to see if there is a part number marked somewhere...many hoses do. That hose looks brand new.
 

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For the thermo gasket, I spread a thin (thin thin) smear of RTV on both sides of the paper gasket, and install and torque immediately.
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There is Blue RTV for thermostat housings. However, I always use old school grey RTV, no issues. The most important part is cleaning, cleaning and cleaning. Be careful not to move the thermostat around during the installation process. I use a rubber band to hold it in place which can be easily removed afterwards.
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I don't think changing the thermostat will bring the engine up to temperature any faster. It will get to 180 in the same amount of time. As far as a replacement hose, have you looked to see if there is a part number marked somewhere...many hoses do. That hose looks brand new.
I was also going to say that hose looks really good in the picture. Any reason to replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was also going to say that hose looks really good in the picture. Any reason to replace it?
Only because I don't know how old it is and figured I might as well do it at the same time, or at least have an extra. But I cant find a match to the numbers on the hose anywhere on the interwebs.
 

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I realize this is super remedial so please be kind. Of all the cars I've owned I've weirdly never needed to change a thermostat until now. My car currently has a 180 stat that was installed this summer when I had other work done but its taking longer than id like to get up to temp now that the Phoenix weather has cooled off. So I'm all set to do it this weekend and just need some tips to avoid any rookie mistakes. I have a 195 stat, gasket and sealer from Summit. My plan is to drain the coolant from the radiator about half way and remove the housing. I know the correct way to position the new stat, but I'm not sure if I need to let the sealer set or how much to torque down the bolts when I'm done. View attachment 814644
The current housing is NOT chrome.
Those thermostat housings tend to leak or weep, so it's good insurance to coat both sides of the gasket with the appropriet sealer.
Be sure the intake and the housing are free of scale/corrosion and are dry, b4 U put the sealer on or install the gasket with sealer on it.
You can lightly run the housing over a piece of 220 grit sand paper, laid on a flat surface to be sure it has a flat mounting surface. Sometimes these thermostat housings warp a bit, so check that out. 🙂
 

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When you take the thermostat housing off, clean the gasket surface, then run it across some sandpaper on a flat surface. If you have high spots at the bolt locations, keep sanding until you have a consistent surface across the entire gasket face.

I also punch or drill a 1/16" hole in the t-stat flange to allow air to escape, orient the hole at 12 o'clock when you install it.
 
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