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Well, I just got done attempting to tune up the 69 ... notice the use of the word attempt(ing) in that sentence. That word leads me to a question ...

The oil pan is beat up pretty bad ... looks like one of the POs tried to take it across Baja with the oil pan dragging. When I went to change the oil, the threads stripped out of the oil pan. The last time the oil was changed, the plug got torqued down so hard that the gasket is now part of the head on the plug. That's probably a good part of why I stripped the threads ... anyways, to make a long story longer ... how hard is it to remove the cross member under the oil pan so I can drop the pan out the bottom. Maybe a better question to ask would be, how hard is it to get the cross member back in right after I get a new oil pan on? Am I just being a doofus and am worried about nothing? I've always seen the engine pulled to replace the oil pan, and since this is my first project, I'd rather ask for the combined wisdom of the ages instead of curse myself for not using my resources ...

Thanks for the help ...

kt
1969 Coupe ... work in progress
 
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Simple on a 66, take off the crossmember, starter, and pan. Never looked at a 69 so don't know if different
or not, but while you're in there, replace the oil pump too, unless you know it's new.

66 Coupe, 289/2v, C4, CA Red
 

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It's not that difficult to change the pan with the engine in. Just remove the crossmember (don't worry, it's very simple to pull out and put back in), and unbolt the idler arm from the passenger frame rail. This will almost give you enough clearance to drop the pan but not quite.

Next step is to pull the pan down off the block and just let it rest on the center link. Reach inside and remove the 2 bolts holding the oil pump to the bottom of the block, and just drop the pump into the pan. Now the whole pan will come out nice and easy.

Installation is just the reverse ... throw the pump into the pan, put the pan back under the block, reach in and bolt in the pump, put everything back together.

Pay particular attention to the front and rear pan seals. If you don't get them fully seated before bolting the pan on, you will have a oil leak, guaranteed.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
http://www.classic-mustang.net/john66/mustang/pics/66fsides2.jpg
 

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Be careful when you remove the crossmember. Those bolts can be pretty tight. Just be sure your breaker bar or ratchet has a safe place to go when the bolt breaks free. I almost knocked myself out pulling the pan on my old Cougar, hehe. . . Invest in a long extension to get at the pan bolts if you don't have one already and a good strong scraper to hanmmer around the pan to break it free. The job is a PIA but not as much hassle as pulling the motor is. Good luck!

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
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