Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
21 - 40 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
AAngry, does a fellow HAVE TO do the frame rails if you do the Dyncorn +2 ? I was conteplating the MTF style, specifically because I DIDN'T want to do the frame rails, AND because I am keeping leafs out back. What are you planning for exhaust, if I may ask ? I want to go over the axle and out with 2 &1/2 or 3. Not sure I would have room with your setup. Looks awefully tight around your Watt's link. LSG
The frame rails have to go in for +2”. In the back of the tub there is only 1” between the rail and stock tub. Moving the frame does not effect leaf mounting points but will limit your tire size. The frame rails were by far the most enjoyable part of the tubbing process for me. Straight forward and fun. I am going to try to do exhaust over the rear axle. I’m using 2.5”. If it can’t happen I will go under the axle. No side exhaust shenanigans for me…
 
  • Like
Reactions: 66Coupeford

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,639 Posts
I’m hoping for at least a 305 to 315 On 10” wheels. This is about where I am right now. I have the brakes cleaned up, installed and bled. Ordered my QP center section 7 weeks ago today. Still waiting on it. When I ordered it they said 5 weeks. Talked to them today. They just can’t keep up. Volume problem not COVID problem.
View attachment 804531
Cool stuff for sure! I have boxes of the same stuff from SoT on shelves for someday. I assume you are running 40" on center on the 3 link bars, thats were I welded mine. It may sound strange but I'm most interested in how your rear seat fits/looks before I commit to tubbing my car.

I have a new 3.25 Tru Trac from QP that I'm not going to use if your interested. I doubt you are as thats a tall gear unless you are autocrossing with a T5z.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Cool stuff for sure! I have boxes of the same stuff from SoT on shelves for someday. I assume you are running 40" on center on the 3 link bars, thats were I welded mine. It may sound strange but I'm most interested in how your rear seat fits/looks before I commit to tubbing my car.
I ended up going with 39” on center to make sure the tub got in the way before the trailing arm. I’m almost sure I didn’t need to but I did. You absolutely will have to narrow your rear seat if you go the same route as I did. I have started this process on the back cushion and it seems fairly easy so far. Took the cover off, cut and welded the frame. I still need to put the cover back on. Then deal with the lower cushion. I have been side tracked for the last couple weeks by a 91 f150 that I picked up from the original owner(Wife’s grandma).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,639 Posts
I ended up going with 39” on center to make sure the tub got in the way before the trailing arm. I’m almost sure I didn’t need to but I did. You absolutely will have to narrow your rear seat if you go the same route as I did. I have started this process on the back cushion and it seems fairly easy so far. Took the cover off, cut and welded the frame. I still need to put the cover back on. Then deal with the lower cushion. I have been side tracked for the last couple weeks by a 91 f150 that I picked up from the original owner(Wife’s grandma).
Cool, I'll hopefully be able to wait to see how yours turns out. Narrowing the frame where you did made mounting the Watts link crossover bar a little more eventful? And the exhaust seems a little daunting!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Cool, I'll hopefully be able to wait to see how yours turns out. Narrowing the frame where you did made mounting the Watts link crossover bar a little more eventful? And the exhaust seems a little daunting!
It was not a joyous occasion cutting into the watts. I cut off the mounting brackets, narrowed the rest of it and cut off the outside flange of the mounting brackets. Then welded them back onto the center portion of the watts. It then slid in between the rails and I welded it in place. The frame rail pieces in the relocation kits are wider than your factory rails, so you really have no choice. Really is a snowball sort of mod. Everything effect something else. I just couldn’t get myself to cut apart the back end of my car for an inch. I’ve always wanted a mini tubbed car with 295 minimum tires and I was going to get it. If you only do an inch, you don’t need to do your rails, watts or your seats. I understand your hesitation. I’ll let you know how it goes And post some pics In the coming month or 2.

I ordered a 3.89 truetrac center for the eventual coyote/t56 swap I will be doing. I like to be tortured apparently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks for all the help guys! I’m going to order the tubs soon and start looking for a 9 inch rear end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,535 Posts
It was not a joyous occasion cutting into the watts. I cut off the mounting brackets, narrowed the rest of it and cut off the outside flange of the mounting brackets. Then welded them back onto the center portion of the watts. It then slid in between the rails and I welded it in place. The frame rail pieces in the relocation kits are wider than your factory rails, so you really have no choice. Really is a snowball sort of mod. Everything effect something else. I just couldn’t get myself to cut apart the back end of my car for an inch. I’ve always wanted a mini tubbed car with 295 minimum tires and I was going to get it. If you only do an inch, you don’t need to do your rails, watts or your seats. I understand your hesitation. I’ll let you know how it goes And post some pics In the coming month or 2.

I ordered a 3.89 truetrac center for the eventual coyote/t56 swap I will be doing. I like to be tortured apparently.
Do you have a build log? I'd like to see how you accommodated the T56.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Do you have a build log? I'd like to see how you accommodated the T56.
It hasn’t happened yet. Going to be a while until I do the coyote. $20k is what I’m expecting and I need a green light form the Mrs…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
I run the just the mini tubs and didnt move the frame rails on my 68. I have a 315 tire in the back but thats also with custom wheels that were specially fit and they are tight
Good job!

Note: Since the 68 body starts out being wider, the above info is not directly pertinent to 65/66 Mustangs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,670 Posts
I mini tubbed my car before all these neato kits came out. Didn't move the frame rail, just a squared tub to max out tire clearance. I use a 295/35/18 tire and it sits nicely tucked (see my sig pic below)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,161 Posts
I wish those who post about their completed mini tubs and tire sizes would indicate if they have a stock width axle or not and the offset of the rear rim they are using. It would answer a lot of others questions. Clearly the mini tub process is pretty well covered but always lacks complete information that can be really useful.

I have installed the DSE mini tubs in my 66 coupe project. I'm a long ways from driving it. I also install all new metal from the firewall back from a full floor to full rear frame rails, transition pan and truck floor plus the outer tubs then mini tubbing it. I have had a couple of people say I should have just back half the car. I just didn't want that and wanted more of a stock looking mustang with big back tires.

The DSE kit has pretty good instructions and once you do one side the other will be far less time to install. The next road block to fitting a 305 to 315 tire is the leaf springs. I chose to move my leafs inboard 3 inches on each side with the Crites kit. If your not going to address the leaf springs then the DSE kit may not be worth the effort. I would suggest looking at other options that will also avoid any rear seat modifications.

If I recall I have 13.75" from the inner most tub to the inside edge of the rolled lip on the quarter panel. It appears I should be able to stuff a 315 under it but I think I will go with a 305 just to be safe.

As for the rear seat I was able to install the rear side panels right to the DSE tub. I have a stripped down seat frame top and bottom and both have to been modified by one inch. The bottom of the top rear seat is narrowed at the bottom and the back of the rear bottom is narrowed. Make sense? I have not yet gotten to the point of recovering the seats but I feel it is something I can do myself.

I have also been thinking of another approach to the rear seat but haven't gotten past the thought process yet. Just been to busy at work. I work in the medical field and we have been so busy I haven't touched the project in a few months. Plus its hot and humid right now in SW Florida. lol

I have plenty of pictures in my build thread of the mini tubs and of the seat frames.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Hey RTM, thanks for the info. I agree on the axle length. I been looking at mine and thinking about that. I would like to narrow mine some, then get a deeper dish wheel. I will check out your build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,377 Posts
I wish those who post about their completed mini tubs and tire sizes would indicate if they have a stock width axle or not and the offset of the rear rim they are using. It would answer a lot of others questions. Clearly the mini tub process is pretty well covered but always lacks complete information that can be really useful.
I am getting closer to the point where I am going to have to revisit my math and make some determinations on wheel configuration. I did mini tub with thought to preserve the rear seat. One that I did that might be opposite to what others would do is actually went with a wider 67/68 rear width in my 65 because I wanted to make it easier to run modern wheels, and to match the wider wheel stance of the Griggs Racing front end. Right now I have some 8 inch wide 18" 2015 Mustang wheels on the rear. I have some 17" Bullitt wheels with lot of offset on the front and am thinking of running some 9 or 10 inch Bullitt wheels on the back.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,639 Posts
I am getting closer to the point where I am going to have to revisit my math and make some determinations on wheel configuration. I did mini tub with thought to preserve the rear seat. One that I did that might be opposite to what others would do is actually went with a wider 67/68 rear width in my 65 because I wanted to make it easier to run modern wheels, and to match the wider wheel stance of the Griggs Racing front end. Right now I have some 8 inch wide 18" 2015 Mustang wheels on the rear. I have some 17" Bullitt wheels with lot of offset on the front and am thinking of running some 9 or 10 inch Bullitt wheels on the back.
Budget wise I think you are on the right track with the wider track width.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
238 Posts
I wish those who post about their completed mini tubs and tire sizes would indicate if they have a stock width axle or not and the offset of the rear rim they are using. It would answer a lot of others questions. Clearly the mini tub process is pretty well covered but always lacks complete information that can be really useful.

I have installed the DSE mini tubs in my 66 coupe project. I'm a long ways from driving it. I also install all new metal from the firewall back from a full floor to full rear frame rails, transition pan and truck floor plus the outer tubs then mini tubbing it. I have had a couple of people say I should have just back half the car. I just didn't want that and wanted more of a stock looking mustang with big back tires.

The DSE kit has pretty good instructions and once you do one side the other will be far less time to install. The next road block to fitting a 305 to 315 tire is the leaf springs. I chose to move my leafs inboard 3 inches on each side with the Crites kit. If your not going to address the leaf springs then the DSE kit may not be worth the effort. I would suggest looking at other options that will also avoid any rear seat modifications.

If I recall I have 13.75" from the inner most tub to the inside edge of the rolled lip on the quarter panel. It appears I should be able to stuff a 315 under it but I think I will go with a 305 just to be safe.

As for the rear seat I was able to install the rear side panels right to the DSE tub. I have a stripped down seat frame top and bottom and both have to been modified by one inch. The bottom of the top rear seat is narrowed at the bottom and the back of the rear bottom is narrowed. Make sense? I have not yet gotten to the point of recovering the seats but I feel it is something I can do myself.

I have also been thinking of another approach to the rear seat but haven't gotten past the thought process yet. Just been to busy at work. I work in the medical field and we have been so busy I haven't touched the project in a few months. Plus its hot and humid right now in SW Florida. lol

I have plenty of pictures in my build thread of the mini tubs and of the seat frames.
My cars rear is 50 5/16" from flange to flange. My wheels are a 5 3/4" back spacing on a 18x12" rim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,161 Posts
My cars rear is 50 5/16" from flange to flange. My wheels are a 5 3/4" back spacing on a 18x12" rim.
I was measuring mine a while back and I have the same axle width as yours. On my build without narrowing the rear axle I think I may need up to 6 inches back spacing. What is the measurement from the inner tub to the inner fender lip on your car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Cool, I'll hopefully be able to wait to see how yours turns out. Narrowing the frame where you did made mounting the Watts link crossover bar a little more eventful? And the exhaust seems a little daunting!
Here’s how it turned out. Narrowed the seat back and did nothing to the bottom. Was more difficult to get in for sure.
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Car seat cover Automotive design
 
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Top