[LeeFred]

Does that work every time you rev your engine? What starts the 10 second delay?

There's a wire from the alternator that goes to a switched source. When you start your engine, the alternator gets a signal from that wire to start charging. I get the squeal when I start my engine, but not when it's up and running. When I've kicked up the RPM's to pass or get on the freeway, or just to see how things are running when I punch it, I don't get a squeal from the alternator, or I'm just not hearing it.

 

[66coupe289]

There's a wire from the alternator that goes to a switched source. When you start your engine, the alternator gets a signal from that wire to start charging. I get the squeal when I start my engine, but not when it's up and running. When I've kicked up the RPM's to pass or get on the freeway, or just to see how things are running when I punch it, I don't get a squeal from the alternator, or I'm just not hearing it.

Okay. With my high output alternator, I would get a squeal with a single V belt when rev'ing. I even had under drive pulleys. Thus, the alternator delay would not have solved a problem like mine. I cured it with dual V belts. Some go the multi-rib belt option.

 

[Rufus68]

Okay. With my high output alternator, I would get a squeal with a single V belt when rev'ing. I even had under drive pulleys. Thus, the alternator delay would not have solved a problem like mine. I cured it with dual V belts. Some go the multi-rib belt option.

I think if you got the squeal every time you rev'ed your engine, then something extra was going on. Sounds like your belt was on the verge of slipping already. And you're right, an initial 10 second delay would not help in this situation.

The common startup squeal is usually because of the load on the battery from just starting the engine causing the alternator to charge at startup. This alternator load combined with the revs of startup result in the squeal. The initial 10 second delay allows time for the engine to be started and settle down some before allowing the alternator to add any load to the belt.

 

[W427]

Multi-rib grips better, and Goodyear has some tech articles as to why if you're interested. That said, one of mine is V-belt with a 3G 130A and spec belt tension, and like others never squeals. I have solved squealing before and most times it is worn belts or pulleys.

From my aviation-tech days, the grooves must be clean and level with no worn waviness, pits, corrosion, or run-out. Effectively, look like new with some sheave polishing, but without distortion in the reflection. Our old pulleys rarely are. Likewise, the V-belt must be the same, with no glazing, shiny surface, cracks or age-hardening. Belts are done for good grip after ±5 years due to hardening, and like old tires don't grip as well.

Worn pulleys wear the belt, and the belt then wears the other pulleys, but never the same pattern so the grip is greatly reduced at every point. The worst point squeals, the belt almost instantly glazes, and here we go again. BTW - the same things can happen to multi-rib.

So now the method that has worked 100% for decades when changing new belts, that will freak-out some readers. It freaked me out. Following some of my tech instructor guidelines for certification, they told me to install the new belt with a tiny rub-in of grease. Yes, a dab of grease rubbed invisibly into the contact areas of the belt with no excess, just this once. Installed and properly tensioned, the grease works for only a few minutes at low speeds to help the belt seat to the pulleys, while avoiding belt glazing from frictional heat of seating and any slippage (usually none) until it seats. The belt is considered "used" after 10 minutes running, and re-tensioned. I would have never believed it before, but damned if it doesn't work, and every time.

Related tip: I found my pinky finger can apply about 4 pounds of pressure without pain. Cool. At 4 pounds pressure at the mid-point of the belt span, there should be 1/64" deflection per inch of span. So, on a 12" free span of belt, it should deflect 3/16". Now I can properly tension my belts without any special tools or guessing, for maximum performance and life of all the parts affected. Grab your scale and see what tools are on your hands.

 

[LeeFred]

If it is only the alternator squeal of a 3G alternator you're trying to solve, then you can also change the voltage regulator to the time delay "white" voltage regulator.
Time delay voltage regulator on eBay

Well, I tried this but it was a no go. The socket for the wiring harness on the white regulator is completely different from the end on the wiring harness. They'll never connect and lock in place. Back to the drawing board.

 

[Woodchuck]

Well, I tried this but it was a no go. The socket for the wiring harness on the white regulator is completely different from the end on the wiring harness. They'll never connect and lock in place. Back to the drawing board.

You have a 3G alternator? Pix of the plug on the wiring harness?

 

[Atti]

I'm interested in this delayed regulator too. Here's what my 3G pigtail looks like.

 

[jasonwthompson]

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in the posts, but I am running a 130 amp 3G with a single deep V groove HIPO/Boss pulley and it has never squealed. Cheaper than switching to serpentine or multi ribbed.

 

[j persons]

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in the posts, but I am running a 130 amp 3G with a single deep V groove HIPO/Boss pulley and it has never squealed. Cheaper than switching to serpentine or multi ribbed.

If it works, don't mess with it

 

[66coupe289]

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in the posts, but I am running a 130 amp 3G with a single deep V groove HIPO/Boss pulley and it has never squealed. Cheaper than switching to serpentine or multi ribbed.

I expect that would work as it is significantly larger in diameter than a standard pulley so there is more contact area.

 

[LeeFred]

You have a 3G alternator? Pix of the plug on the wiring harness?

I'll have to get back to you on this as I'm not near my car at the moment.

The socket on the 10 second delay regulator is rectangular with two ridges on the upper portion and one ridge off-center on the bottom. The wiring harness plug is rectangular in shape, but the two upper corners are rounded instead of squared, and there is a groove at the bottom of the plug that is centered.

 

[W427]

Yep, there are two connector versions. Early and most common is the '94+ "D" shape, and later some (often called "2000-'09", but not accurate) had the rectangular Bosch/AMP "Timer" or "JPT" connector with the key ridges.

Some options are to buy another with correct connector type, or get the correct connector (store, online or wrecking yard) and splice it on, or use crimp-on spade connectors (less secure), or cut the connector and solder the wires directly to the pins (works but makes disconnection a pain ). Of course I do not suggest the last two, but if you're stuck somewhere...

Sometimes the regulator is cheaper then the connector. [EDIT] BTW, they are always white, but sometimes called "soft-start".

These connectors are very common on imported Euro cars, so finding one at the wrecker's is fairly easy. Take your regulator and verify the key slots fit. Most will. Some stores may have them in-stock, or get them online at 5 kits for $5, but wait a month:

 

[Woodchuck]

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[Atti]

Ok, I did some google hunting. It looks like the F786 regulator has the old style plug. The F795 has the soft start with the newer style plug. It says it has a 2.5 second delay though, not 10. Not sure if that makes any difference.

Time delay regulator F795

 

[LeeFred]

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in the posts, but I am running a 130 amp 3G with a single deep V groove HIPO/Boss pulley and it has never squealed. Cheaper than switching to serpentine or multi ribbed.

I was reviewing this thread with the plan of seeing what direction to go. Somehow I missed this post earlier, but though I'd give it a try. There was one of these pulleys on eBay in Mesa, AZ, so I ordered it and got it in two days. I installed it and have been driving my car for a few days now. No more squeal on start-up! The voltmeter shows it is charging just fine. I'll give it a few more starts in the hopes that the squealing is a gone issue and move onto something else. Thanks to all for your ideas and suggestions.

 

[jasonwthompson]

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

 

[LeeFred]

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

Yes, thanks for the info. Didn't have to drop almost $300 dollars on a new serpentine system, or try to put together a bunch of pulleys in the hopes they would align with each other. And I use my old v-belt with a spare in trunk!

 

[Rufus68]

I was reviewing this thread with the plan of seeing what direction to go. Somehow I missed this post earlier, but though I'd give it a try. There was one of these pulleys on eBay in Mesa, AZ, so I ordered it and got it in two days. I installed it and have been driving my car for a few days now. No more squeal on start-up! The voltmeter shows it is charging just fine. I'll give it a few more starts in the hopes that the squealing is a gone issue and move onto something else. Thanks to all for your ideas and suggestions.

Can you post a link to the pulley you used?

 

[LeeFred]

Can you post a link to the pulley you used?

This one is what I searched for: C5AF-10352-H

 

[Rufus68]

This one is what I searched for: C5AF-10352-H

You left an "A" out of the number but it was close enough for me to find it. Thank you.
C5AF-10A352-H (the last letter can differ by finish)