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Third member removal

871 Views 19 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  vegasloki
Finally getting back to trying to figure out the clunk in the rear, which is requiring me to remove the 3rd member. Axles are removed, driveshaft out, all nuts around the all 3rd member removed except the top one, that's loose.

I've been trying to get it open enough to drain fluid and remove it but the things not budging. Some fluid is leaking around a few of the bolt holes. I tried using a jack to push up on the yoke carefully, no joy.

I've read about copper crush washers, I can see those, but can't seem to remove them as there's no lip to pry them off.

Any tips? Tried tapping a screwdriver in with a hammer, but not sure if I should be hitting it harder and trying to avoid damaging it.

Thanks.
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Those copper washers are your problem. They will have to come off somehow. IIRC I had to use a small screwdriver and some gentle tapping with a hammer to get them to budge, then some needlenose pliers to worry them off of each stud. A true PITA.

Good luck,
MrFreeze
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Thanks, I was thinking I'd read those need to come off. I'll just have to figure out some way of prying those out where there's no visible lip to tap with a screwdriver.

There's a washer on every one right?
Thanks, I was thinking I'd read those need to come off. I'll just have to figure out some way of prying those out where there's no visible lip to tap with a screwdriver.

There's a washer on every one right?
There should be

John
I don’t know why the washers would need to come off. I don’t take them off when I remove it.

I fashioned my own tool for separating things like this. Take the edge of a flathead screw driver and grind it to a fairly sharp point. Then hit it with a hammer to wedge it between the third member and the housing. It WILL make it separate.

On the tool, eventually the screw driver shaft will protrude to the end of the handle, which is then perfect. Then every once in a while you need need to refresh the edge.
I’ve used a set of automotive picks to get the washers off. The sharp tips allowed me to dig the copper out of the threads and lift them a little so i could get a small screwdriver under them and work them off.
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I have used a one inch putty knife to start loosening them up. Destroys the putty knife but it is a three dollar tool. Once they get a little loose, graduate to a small screw driver to brake them loose.
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I don’t know why the washers would need to come off. I don’t take them off when I remove it.

I fashioned my own tool for separating things like this. Take the edge of a flathead screw driver and grind it to a fairly sharp point. Then hit it with a hammer to wedge it between the third member and the housing. It WILL make it separate.

On the tool, eventually the screw driver shaft will protrude to the end of the handle, which is then perfect. Then every once in a while you need need to refresh the edge.
If they are not stuck on there I would say they were not crush washers or the nuts were not torqued down enough.
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If they are not stuck on there I would say they were not crush washers or the nuts were not torqued down enough.
I agree - in my experience you could torque down the nuts onto those washers, then remove all the nuts and drive like that for as long as you wanted to. Those little bastards hold on TIGHT.

MrFreeze
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I use an ice pick or awl to remove the washers.
I just did this project this past summer and went throught the same thing. I used a small sharp chisel to chip away at the copper washers. Once you get them moving they will come off. You need to work at it some and get them all off. Once I got them all off, I pounded the chisel into the joint between the pumpkin and the housing and it came loose pretty easily.

Hope this is helpful.

Glen
Split the washers with a small chisel then pick away with a pocket screwdriver.
Small screw driver with a sharp tip and some time to spare. Also be ready for a big stink from that gear oil LOL ! sniff sniff !
Got it!! Was definitely the washers that were holding it on, I ended up using a combination of a pick, small screwdriver and needle nose pliers to get them removed. Interestingly, I only had copper washers on about half of the studs. Once I chipped, picked and pulled those out of the way, a screwdriver, followed by a chisel as I worked my way around separated it until I could pull it out entirely. Of course, a screwdriver and chisel fell into the drain pan, now full of stinky oil.

So, now it is off, couple other questions... Do the studs that the 3rd member is on push out at all? Trying to think of a way to make cleaning the old gasket / sealant off the surface a little easier and if those come out, it will certainly make that job a little simpler.

Second, now I have this big heavy stinky oil covered 3rd member out, what can I clean it with? I don't have a parts washer, just typical house hold stuff available to me. It'll make working on it more enjoyable if I can clean it up first.
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I would not remove the studs. They are pressed in. Scrape the gasket off around them. Its time consuming.
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I got tired of breaking the tips of small screwdrivers (even though they are under warrantee) and got a couple of these.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Mini-Pocket-Prybars/5"-Angle-Tip-Mini-Pocket-Prybar-(Green)/PBMB5G

ETA: Use Seafoam to clean the grease and oil loaded parts. Available at any auto parts joint.
ETA: Use Seafoam to clean the grease and oil loaded parts. Available at any auto parts joint.
I actually have an almost full can of seafoam sitting on the shelf, not really sure what I bought it for, do I just spray it on and then wipe off / let it evaporate / rinse?
Couple of cans of brake clean to clean up all of the oil and grime, lots of paper towels and new copper washers. I've used these before and they work fine.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle



Had a can of brake cleaner, went to town with that and it cleaned up nicely. Going to give it another clean and wipe with paper towels, then try to figure out what's causing the clunk.
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I actually have an almost full can of seafoam sitting on the shelf, not really sure what I bought it for, do I just spray it on and then wipe off / let it evaporate / rinse?
Yep. I dry wipe the bulk of grease/dirt off (if it’s loose enough or thick enough) then either soak or wire brush dipped in it and go to town. As noted above brake cleaner works well but if you’re doing a lot of parts it can be expensive. I also use Zep degreaser from Lowes (I think Home Depot has it too). Not as immediate as brake clean or Seafoam but quite a bit less expensive in bulk. Sometimes I’ll do a first pass or two with Zep then Seafoam with a Scotch Brite pad or wire brush.
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