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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 1965 fastback with a 351w and 450hp/tq at the flywheel and had horrible wheel hop. I went through and replaced the UCA's/LCA's, tie rods, installed Bilstein sport valved shocks, Maier racing coil springs and their 4.5 leaf springs and roller spring perches. The car has a comfortable ride to it and doesn't have the wheel hop anymore but I'm thinking it can be better. I'm thinking about buying some adjustable DIY strut rods as everyone that has them says they work great as well as a boss 302 style crossmember that ties into the LCA bolt and maybe some roller LCA's. Attached below are the links to what I'm thinking of buying, they're all from the same company and would love to know what your opinions are. Car is mostly just for driving around town and on road trips but might take to the track every once in a while. Thanks!

1965-1966 Mustang Heavy Duty Adjustable Lower Control Arms (one pair), ? Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering Inc

1965 -1966 Mustang Do-It-Yourself Adjustable Strut Rod Kit (one pair), ? Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering Inc

1965-1966 Mustang Boss 302 Style Lower Cross Member, CM-1001 ? Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering Inc
 

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I'm in favor of lower arms with a bearing, adjustable struts and a stronger cross member. For the amount of money for the LCA, I would not skimp and go directly to purpose built arms, not modified stamped sheet metal. On the struts, I'm not crazy about cutting thread on the stock strut rods. I would prefer threads that are rolled, that's may preference. Cutting the thread sets up a sharp corner in the thread that could cause a failure. When some one has invested a lot of engineering time and professional, precision manufacturing along with assuming liability, it was a no brainer for me.
 

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You actually have to use your stock radius arms- cut, reduce, drill and tap the ends? I think I'd feel better spending another $100 for ones that are 'factory' built and just bolted on. The lower cross member is nice, but you could do the same thing by welding a flat plate to your stocker and drilling a hole for the control arm, right? I'll admit the lower control arms look good, but the rod end looks pretty small to me- makes me a little nervous. It very well could be as strong or stronger than the stock bushings/arm, but I'd still want to see some reviews before buying them..
 

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You actually have to use your stock radius arms- cut, reduce, drill and tap the ends? I think I'd feel better spending another $100 for ones that are 'factory' built and just bolted on. The lower cross member is nice, but you could do the same thing by welding a flat plate to your stocker and drilling a hole for the control arm, right? I'll admit the lower control arms look good, but the rod end looks pretty small to me- makes me a little nervous. It very well could be as strong or stronger than the stock bushings/arm, but I'd still want to see some reviews before buying them..
I guess more of an explanation might've been better... I'm using the stock crossmember and it's just barely rubbing on the oil pan. I've read online that it's silly to buy an aftermarket or replacement one that doesn't tie into the LCA bolts, so I figured while I had it out I might as well upgrade to something better. But you are correct about spending the extra $100 and getting a nicer product on the strut rods as opposed to doing it myself. I also saw some installed but not driven on global west tubular LCA's for around $350, might be the better way to go
 
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