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Hey new here! I have been talking with a seller about potentially buying his 68 mustang. The link for it is this: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1053416858188204/

I feel his asking price is a little high and think I can get it down to about 15.5k. is that a good deal? Any red flags about this car? He says is it was a complete restoration in 2016 and hasn't been driven much since then. The motor and radiator look much more worn to me than when it was put in. Or is that normal? It is advertised as rust free. I'm not sure what the motor is but he claims it's 400hp which I am doubting. It has disc power brakes and stock power steering.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1053416858188204/
 

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This could be a good deal if the entire driveline is matched up and all working in alignment with each other...if all the mechanics are working great and upgraded, then the price would be good. I might negotiate around $2k.

Don't underestimate the benefits of a fully built drivetrain. He said he put $12k in the motor/trans. If the rest of the mechanics are upgraded (disc brakes, suspension, rear-end, etc), then this is an excellent deal. Don't expect to restore anything close to $20k with those upgrades. He's taking a big loss, for sure.
 

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Yeah having disc power brakes is a plus. All he said about suspension is that it has new shocks and springs so probably nothing special there. Not sure what rear end it has but I'm assuming stock. Wheels are 14". He said it has aluminum heads, roller rockers, roller cam.
 

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To me, looks like engine bay was painted with undercoating.
I don't see any power brake booster.
Tops of fender attached by looks to be screws with metal covers, why?
If restored, why front of radiator support look so bad?
Headers looked good in shop, all rusty on car.
Based on intake, not 289/302.
Was rear end rebuild?
Drum brakes in rear?
AC really work?

I'd guess $15 - 17k
 

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To me, looks like engine bay was painted with undercoating.
I don't see any power brake booster.
Tops of fender attached by looks to be screws with metal covers, why?
If restored, why front of radiator support look so bad?
Headers looked good in shop, all rusty on car.
Based on intake, not 289/302.
Was rear end rebuild?
Drum brakes in rear?
AC really work?

I'd guess $15 - 17k
Those are great observations
 

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Its really about how the system was designed. Aluminum heads says nothing. Is it designed for street or street strip or was it designed to be a drag race motor but then put in a street car. My biggest issue is that it is missing a man-pedal. 400hp doesn't do you right in an automatic unless the auto was built for it with the correct stall converter for the engine build e.g. cam, intake. headers, heads...That said, be hard to build a car that nice for $20k.



If you decide to add a man pedal, probably better to find a different car. Not crazy about the wheel choice, they were cool 25 years ago but look dated now and not in a good way. Approaching 20k is fastback territory. Don't get blinded by the motor bling, unless bling is your thing.



Run a hose in the cowl in every Mustang you look at, watch the carpet for water...
 

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Tops of fender attached by looks to be screws with metal covers, why?
If restored, why front of radiator support look so bad?

It looks like the owner used stainless steel button head bolts and washers to attach the fenders along with that polished stainless steel fender apron cover. The standard hex head bolts would look ugly in that situation. Maybe the stainless apron covers are being used to hide the rust that is common on the '67 and later fender aprons where they overlap near the shock towers.


I see a reflection of the hood in the polished stainless steel radiator support cover.
 

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Complete restoration? NO Complete exterior paint job, YES. Im curious whats up with the tan console, door pulls and floor mats?

Id say its a $12.5k car


I had this car for sale for $15k and never got one bite besides a scammer. It hasn't seen rain since 1982 and the underside is as nice as the rest of the car, the only non original metal on the car is the doors, the stamped interior grain was beat up so I replaced them. After a frustrating attempt at a sale, I've decided to keep it, I couldn't build another as nice for anything close to what I could get for it.
 

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Wow that does look clean, good to compare it to others in similar price range.
Keep in mind that you can fresh'n up the engine compartment in a day, fenders off and everything. I did it before and it makes all the difference. You can't build a performance engine & trans in that short of time. The complaints you hear about could be rather small problems. The pics and description maybe aren't good enough to make a judgment without seeing it.

That serpentine belt-drive system (polished pulleys, etc) is expensive, maybe $800 or more. You just can't compare it to a v-belt pulley system in the sample pic.

Eye-appeal is buy-appeal and it looks like the owner neglected to clean up some things in the engine compartment.

All I'm saying is that I would look at it, drive it and see if the issues are small. Test drive it, do an emergency stop, spin the wheels and push the limits of the car to see where it's vulnerable...then, make the offer.

Console and door panels can be changed. It already has the premium TMI seats, so it's off to a good start.

After testing it and you think it's really a $12k car, then offer $12k.
 

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Keep in mind that you can fresh'n up the engine compartment in a day, fenders off and everything. I did it before and it makes all the difference. You can't build a performance engine & trans in that short of time. The stuff you're looking at could be rather small in comparison.

All I'm saying is that I would look at it, drive it and see if the issues are small. Test drive it, do an emergency stop, spin the wheels and push the limits of the car to see where it's vulnerable...then, make the offer.

Console and door panels can be changed. It already had the premium TMI seats, so it's off to a good start.
I'm just not digging the engine bay spray paint in undercoating.
Either lazy or hiding issues...
That's not fixed in a day
 

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Restored means different things to different people. To many of us around here it means the car was disassembled completely and brought back to original or near original condition. To this guy it looks like it means paint, interior and drive train. To bring a car to that state you'd need a $10k or so donor or be willing to do the metal and paint yourself. Even if you got a donor carcass free you couldn't duplicate that for $20k. And you'd need the skills, tools, time and space. It adds up pretty quickly.

I don't know where @Lightning is located but in the southwest you could get $15k for his car. It's a good looking ride. Location, location, location. You'd have to list if for a couple/few grand more becasue everyone likes to haggle and think they got a good deal. In CA, NV and AZ there is a lot of buying power and a lot of people. There are 40 million people in CA alone. If you are in a place that's somewhat rural or hasn't been lifted as much as the rest of the country it will be a hard sell. TX is going to be more like the southwest than the Great Lakes or midwest. If it's near what the owner says it is I think $12.5 is lowball. If I listed for $20k, would settle for $17/18k and you offered $12.5 I'd be inclined to walk and not offer a counter. There is a lot of info on the site on what to look for in a classic Mustang. Do some searching, get some knowledge and go see the car. That's the only way if you know it's going to be worth it for you. Not me, not anyone else but you. If you like it and are comfortable with it buy it and enjoy it and don't be concerned what anyone else thinks about the value of the car. If you can drive it home and not have it in your garage working on it for a year or two that's worth something.
 

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Makes your car slower, annoying in traffic. Never heard the "man pedal" reference before.

:grin2:
Who drives a muscle car in traffic anyways. If your looking to wait for the green lights and push one pedal to the floor and hold the the car straight for 10-15 seconds, and show off a little slip of paper, set up an auto right. If however, you want to hit the twisties and have the time of your life, aint nutt'n like beans (hp), good suspension and a man pedal :pirate:

... and since I'm in this deep, lets go for broke: if you don't want the rest of us to ask if your wife will let you use her car long enough to go have a beer... :x>:)


Just hav'n fun (not really ;o))))
 
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