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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so tomorrow is my 16th birthday.. been rushing this past month to get my car ready. I had everything ready except trans lines and radio(not necessary right now). Pulleys were in and everything. My handyman came over a few days ago and was looking at it and noticed a bolt was missing through the AC idler pulley and water pump. The threads were broken off inside. In order to get the rest of the bolt out he said I should take the water pump off and he would drill it out. I was like okay and took everything back off. Got all the water pump bolts out except one that goes all the way to the engine block. I am pretty sure it is the one that they put in in the factory so obviously its been in the water pump for over 50 years and is rusted. It got threaded once about 3/4" was visible. I really wanted to be able to drive my car on the day I got my license (tomorrow) and now that won't happen. Now I just want to be able to get it running ASAP. How do you advise me to go about this situation? I can attach pics tomorrow.

(On a side note can anyone give me any tips on how to connect trans cooling lines to the trans easily? Also radio power/ignition/ground? Thank you.)
 

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So, if I understand you correctly, the water pump is off and you have a broken bolt left? Remove the front 4 oil pan bolts and pull the front cover, then you can access what is left of the bolt. Heck, if it's been 50 years you probably need a new timing set anyway.

On the trans cooler lines, hook them to the tranny first, then the brackets and the radiator last. You may have to slightly bend the end by the tube nut one way or the other to make it easier to thread in. For radio power you can get a fuse tap to pull both battery and ignition hot power from the fuse box.
 

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If you have part of the bolt sticking out, thread a nut down a ways, put on a washer then thread a second nut in front of it. Turn the first nut backward as if to thread it off until it contacts the one nearest the end and voila, you've created a head on the bolt. Keep turning that first nut until it backs out. You may try some penetrating spray and gently tapping it etc first.

For your trans cooling lines, loosen the radiator bolts to allow you to move it a little, push the line with one hand, with the flare against the radiator seat, and always start the ferrule nut with the other hand to be sure you don't cross-thread it, tighten as far as you can by hand then use a LINE WRENCH, not a regular open wrench, to tighten it.

You can use the original fused radio wire for power from the back of the ignition switch and ground to the chassis, as original.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, if I understand you correctly, the water pump is off and you have a broken bolt left? Remove the front 4 oil pan bolts and pull the front cover, then you can access what is left of the bolt. Heck, if it's been 50 years you probably need a new timing set anyway.

On the trans cooler lines, hook them to the tranny first, then the brackets and the radiator last. You may have to slightly bend the end by the tube nut one way or the other to make it easier to thread in. For radio power you can get a fuse tap to pull both battery and ignition hot power from the fuse box.
Sorry I may have worded that weirdly. I have all of the bolts of water pump off except for one. It is stripped at the threads and will spin but wont come out. Its just a tricky space for trans lines so thank you. I'll look into fuse tap but thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you have part of the bolt sticking out, thread a nut down a ways, put on a washer then thread a second nut in front of it. Turn the first nut backward as if to thread it off until it contacts the one nearest the end and voila, you've created a head on the bolt. Keep turning that first nut until it backs out. You may try some penetrating spray and gently tapping it etc first.

For your trans cooling lines, loosen the radiator bolts to allow you to move it a little, push the line with one hand, with the flare against the radiator seat, and always start the ferrule nut with the other hand to be sure you don't cross-thread it, tighten as far as you can by hand then use a LINE WRENCH, not a regular open wrench, to tighten it.

You can use the original fused radio wire for power from the back of the ignition switch and ground to the chassis, as original.
Like what I said to Woodchuck I may have worded that vaguely. I have all bolts except one and it will spin but wont come out. As with cooling lines thank you I will have to buy some line wrenchs but thanks. As with the radio... the PO added back speakers and redid wiring. I have looked and looked and cannot find the old power or ignition wires. Could I ground it to a bolt that goes into the top of the frame that holds the ash tray? Thank you
 

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Yeah you can ground the radio pretty much anyplace that has clean metal as long as your chassis is grounded well back to the battery. As far as the bolt, you may be able to get it to grab a thread and start backing out if you can create backward tension at the same time you're turning it counterclockwise... I did that once by chucking the bolt tightly into a drill then pulling backward as I powered the drill counterclockwise. Again, that will work best if it has a head on the bolt to grasp. You may just end up having to carefully and cleanly drilling it out then installing an insert or tapping it for the next size.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah you can ground the radio pretty much anyplace that has clean metal as long as your chassis is grounded well back to the battery. As far as the bolt, you may be able to get it to grab a thread and start backing out if you can create backward tension at the same time you're turning it counterclockwise... I did that once by chucking the bolt tightly into a drill then pulling backward as I powered the drill counterclockwise. Again, that will work best if it has a head on the bolt to grasp. You may just end up having to carefully and cleanly drilling it out then installing an insert or tapping it for the next size.
Alright awesome thank you for the ground part. It does have a head and I was thinking of trying to get backward tension.. There isn't room for my drill to fit because of the radiator. What are some general tools that I could use to create some backward tension? I can ask my handyman what he thinks but thank you.
 

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I did and that just stripped the threads more I am pretty sure. I think if I got backward tension that first said then it should come out.
No.
What you did was back the bolt out of the threads in the block. Now there is no more force being applied by the threads' inclined plane action to push the bolt, it is just spinning. If the threads were gone what is holding it? It is now being held by rust deposits or silicone or gasket maker or paper gasket or even just whatever gunk is left from the water passage..
If you want you can just cut the head off the bolt (hard because it will spin) then pull the pump and timing cover and see whats holding the bolt and wonder like others have "how did that little bit of crap hold on so tight!".

Why the timing cover you ask? because that's where the end of the broken one is hiding and you wont have some "handy dude" messing up the timing cover trying to drill it out! And for your B-day you can check the timing chain and maybe change it. No, it nor the water pump are the originals but it might need changing anyway.

You just knew old cars would be fun, right?
 

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Alright awesome thank you for the ground part. It does have a head and I was thinking of trying to get backward tension.. There isn't room for my drill to fit because of the radiator. What are some general tools that I could use to create some backward tension? I can ask my handyman what he thinks but thank you.
I wonder if you can snag it with a slide puller of some type and either jerk it out of there if the threads are shot, or use a jaw puller to power it out.
 

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Pull the radiator if it's in the way... it's not a hard job and it'll make the other work that needs to be done much easier.
Use vice grips (a real tool, not one with "China" stamped on it... Irwin is the original brand), jam a small pry bar under the bolt head while turning it out. As many have mentioned earlier, the threads should catch. A little penetrating oil is also a good idea.
When re-assembling, use Anti-Seize on the bolts. When I assembled my engine I replaced all the water pump and timing cover bolts with stainless steel and put Anti-Seize on everything.
That was 2015. Everything is working, and no leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No.
What you did was back the bolt out of the threads in the block. Now there is no more force being applied by the threads' inclined plane action to push the bolt, it is just spinning. If the threads were gone what is holding it? It is now being held by rust deposits or silicone or gasket maker or paper gasket or even just whatever gunk is left from the water passage..
If you want you can just cut the head off the bolt (hard because it will spin) then pull the pump and timing cover and see whats holding the bolt and wonder like others have "how did that little bit of crap hold on so tight!".

Why the timing cover you ask? because that's where the end of the broken one is hiding and you wont have some "handy dude" messing up the timing cover trying to drill it out! And for your B-day you can check the timing chain and maybe change it. No, it nor the water pump are the originals but it might need changing anyway.

You just knew old cars would be fun, right?
That's what I signed up for! I didn't want to have to cut the bolt but that seems like one of the only options. I might not have to drill the broken bolt out if I actually end up getting the water pump off. I should change timing chain you're right so thank you and I will try to do that over break :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pull the radiator if it's in the way... it's not a hard job and it'll make the other work that needs to be done much easier.
Use vice grips (a real tool, not one with "China" stamped on it... Irwin is the original brand), jam a small pry bar under the bolt head while turning it out. As many have mentioned earlier, the threads should catch. A little penetrating oil is also a good idea.
When re-assembling, use Anti-Seize on the bolts. When I assembled my engine I replaced all the water pump and timing cover bolts with stainless steel and put Anti-Seize on everything.
That was 2015. Everything is working, and no leaks.
I have seen Anti-Seize mentioned a lot so sounds like a reliable product. I will get some of that. I put penetrating oil on already and will try with my real vice grips haha. Thanks :)
 

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If the bolt is moving, soak it with penetrating oil and move it in and out until it moves freely, then work your way out as it loosens. I recently removed eight broken studs from a steel plate that way. Took a long time, as they were badly rusted, but got them out clean. I was able to put heat on the steel around the studs. Avoid using a Vise-grip if you can. A nut welded to the stump is best, if possible.

737521
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If the bolt is moving, soak it with penetrating oil and move it in and out until it moves freely, then work your way out as it loosens. I recently removed eight broken studs from a steel plate that way. Took a long time, as they were badly rusted, but got them out clean. I was able to put heat on the steel around the studs. Avoid using a Vise-grip if you can. A nut welded to the stump is best, if possible.

View attachment 737521
ok will do thank you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: Used a crow bar to pull bolt out super easily... threads were basically rusted off. Ordered a new bolt set and gasket. Once I get trans lines connected and put radiator and transmission fluid and gas in along with the water pump my car should run :)
 
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