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Discussion Starter #21
Last night the clutch master cylinder pushrod snapped. I had a spare on hand because I had been finding the wilwood clutch and slave set up, tend to blow through seals every 1.5 years.

I haven't changed the m/c for about 3 years, so I will use that parts fail as a reminder to change out the clutch and slave cylinder each year in the off season.

The mufflers arrived. Each one looks to be very well made and each has it's own remote control key fob.
Hoping to have the muffler system redesigned in a couple months
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Started working on the exhaust. I demoed the old system yesterday.

I made some wood supports for the mufflers, which will be the key area to locate.

Next once I am happy with the mufflers, it will be the tailpipes.

I have a flex coupling that I want to locate inline, to reduce transmitted vibration through the exhaust. Because the car is quite lowered, I have to locate it a little higher up under the car somewhere. I don't know where that is yet
 

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Discussion Starter #26
warthogdriver77 said:
great build man.
car looks excellent.
Thanks!

--

A little more work (a lot) on the drivers side tailpipe. That's the tightest area, so I thought I'd get it over with first.

I think I have the pipes close to mocked up where I need them. I had to enlarge the chrome trim ring a little for the larger tailpipes.
So decent progress. I need to plan for hangers and do a bit more clearancing before doing my welds.

The new welder is great, though. Lots of power. Now I have to work on my welding skills ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Worked on the driver's side from the muffler back. It's definitely the toughest, with little clearance between the fuel tank and leaf spring. I added a number of extra brackets so that it won't rattle. The tips are larger than before. It should free up quite a bit of horsepower with the switch to the 3" exhaust on the big engine.

Just gonna hope that this extra long winter is over in time for me to try it out ;)
 

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The exhaust looks good, are those the tips from the kit? I have been thinking about the Magnaflow kit myself, but getting ready to do the SoT 3 link so I may wait to check for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The exhaust looks good, are those the tips from the kit? I have been thinking about the Magnaflow kit myself, but getting ready to do the SoT 3 link so I may wait to check for clearance.
Hi, The tips are dynomax.

was thinking about the 3 link too, but I have yet been able to convince my wife to let me track it again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Dove in and got a bunch more work on the exhaust, from the x-pipe back. Welded in the flex couplers to hopefully dampen vibration.
Unfortunately one exhaust flange was mis-packaged, so I have to wait until the new one is shipped to complete the welding to the muffler flanges, darn.

Ideally I wanted this done, before doing the custom oval section from the collector to the x-pipe. Maybe I can do it, I'm not certain yet.

Otherwise I am 1/2 happy tonight lol
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I am brainstorming a change to the headlights. Since I have installed Gary's brighter LED signal lights, I am likely using these as my daytime running lights.
Prior to that I had the (four) highbeam circuit loaded with ballast resistors and was using that for a daytime running light. I only used that for about 25% of the time, as it was a high amperage circuit, loaded with ballast resistors to lower the wattage/ light output.

So I am nixing that, and instead replacing that with a momentary passing light/flasher circuit. That's what I was working on tonight.

Next I am deciding on the daytime running light circuit. Do I want it coming on automatically as soon as the car moves, or do I want it switched, manually?

I suppose I can do both, where I have it come on every time the car moves, then have an override switch to turn them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested

[Photobucket pic removal]

this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Picked up my carbon fibre mat etc, for constructing my brake ducts and a few other things. It's fairly expensive fabric, but should be a lot of fun making lightweight items for the car.

Possibly have some pics this week, depending on weather
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Started work on the carbon fibre ducts for the rear brakes. It should look good, but nice that I can hone my skills on the aesthetics for the parts under the car, where they are slightly less visible.

Will know a little more tonight, after the 1st section hardens
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Unfortunately the first batch of moulds failed to produce any semblance of a decent result.

Moulds #2 with a different materials, and I hotted up the mix a bit for a faster cure.

The results can only get better.

If it does turn out, then I'll post pics. If it doesn't then no pics
 

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What kind of problems are you having with the carbon parts?

Btw, your car is pretty awesome as others have mentioned. Also, what suspension and wheel tire combo up front?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
What kind of problems are you having with the carbon parts?

Btw, your car is pretty awesome as others have mentioned. Also, what suspension and wheel tire combo up front?
Thanks very much for your comments. The suspension started out as the Opentracker rollerized perches, and cut springs. It evolved to a TCP upper and lower control arm, then Shaun came along with his coilover, so actually has the SOT coilover, strutrods and TCP uppers and lowers.

Wheels are the 99-04 'stang, 17x9's. Very modified. I cut the backspacing 1.1 and then removed 3/16" off the wheel hub face

Tires are 255/40/17 on the front

Front is now super grippy and I have to look at improving the rear much more now. Eventually looking at Shaun's 3 link for the rear possibly, likely new stickier tires on the back

The problem I am having with the carbon fibre, is really the route I have to take with the brake ducting. It goes up over the leaf spring, and under the exhaust, and also turns to blow air on the brake discs. Pretty complex little shape.

It's coming along though
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Pretty much finished up work on the rear ducts. Hopefully when the rain stops, and I can get some more work done and a road test in, everything will be as it should.

I am getting a but better at moulding the carbon fibre. It's tough doing a hollow tube

So onto the front pretty soon
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Switched to the passenger side, and started replacing the balljoints.
Everything went well until I tried to unscrew the lower balljoint.
Didn't go and I damaged one part of the nut slightly

I decided to stop heat it up with my heat gun
no luck, and I didn't want to damage it further

shot it with penetrating oil, and am going to try and get the correct wrench tomorrow. Looks to be a 1 3/4 square socket
 

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Just dropping in a few of the previous bumpsteer images, for information for those who are interested









this was done over the course of 2 days, and requires;

1 a bumpsteer kit
2 a laser level (to level the car)
3 disconnect the sway bar and spring (on the side you are working on, to allow free swinging of the suspension through it's arc
4 an alignment tool, like the fastrax tool from summit
5 patience


The time that I took on this was well worth it, the car drives and steers so much better after doing this work (back in the day)
I am trying to follow your spreadsheet, but I can't figure out the final settings.

What were your optimal shim stacks on both sides?

Thanks!

Andrew
 
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