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Discussion Starter #41
I am trying to follow your spreadsheet, but I can't figure out the final settings.

What were your optimal shim stacks on both sides?

Thanks!

Andrew
I'll can go check, but on the chart for the one side, I'd see 1+3 and 1+3+4 looking the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
A few parts were delivered this week, and while waiting for a special wrench for my lower balljoint, I thought that I'd tackle the door.

There were a number of issues, and upgrades.
The window regulator was worn, so I replaced that.
It was quite badly out of alignment, so spent a good amount of time working out the issues.
(Window never closed tight lately, so always was wind noise on the highway)

Then added a courtesy light in the door.

The door was missing the handle bracket, so I installed that as well.

I thought that I checked the mirror for looseness, and put everything back together.
Nope I didn't check it properly and had to take everything back off again, and took the mirror out and apart. Applied some loctite to the offending screw and put it all back in.

Forgot to guide the adjuster knob through the panel, so yep took it all apart again, and finally have it together.

Took most of the day, but the window alignment looks good, cranks up and down good, and doesn't rattle. Mirror is nice and solid, and the hand hold is screws in tight, so the panel should stay on, even when the door is closed hard.

Whew, quite a long challenging day, but overall addressed quite a few important issues. Especially the window and mirror rattling.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
One of the items on my order list was the fuel filler tube.
I added the 22 gallon tank, to my 'stang at the beginning, but modified the '67 tube to try and make it work.

The pitfalls of that was a necessarily slow tank fill at the gas station. The tube and the tank neck were somewhat mislaigned. If I didn't go brutally slow, I'd get splashback, or gas all over my bumper.

NPD makes a conversion filler tube, so I got that.

It was quite a little battle to get it on, but I managed.

I also modded the cap a little but to fit under the trap door. I removed the spring seal, in favour of a twist on cap a long time ago. I found with the new tube, that the tabs on the cap interfered with the trap door. It didn't close tight.

I adjusted the tabs so the door closes nicely.

Whew. It should be a real nice change, not having to worry about the fuel splash, when gassing the car up, and not having to wash the gas off of the bumper, each fueling.

:)
 

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Can you post a few pics of the gas filler and mods that you made? Getting close to that stage on my 22ga Tanks Inc and it will be one of the last things I need to get done before mine is road worthy.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Can you post a few pics of the gas filler and mods that you made? Getting close to that stage on my 22ga Tanks Inc and it will be one of the last things I need to get done before mine is road worthy.

Thanks
I uploaded a pic of the newer NPD fuel filler tube for a 67 with the 22 gallon tank.
The other two pics are the original 67 filler that I had to cut to get to align with the 22 gallon tank.

Hope that helps

---

Tonight I picked up the wrench for the lower balljoints. In 5 minutes I had it swapped out. Great having the correct tool.

After doing all the balljoints, is seems like the lowers had minimal wear. The uppers were pretty shot tho.

All good now though. Probably put the tires back on tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Working on the steering now. Changing out the Borgeson unit, for the TCP power rack.

Tonight and the last couple days was arguing with the outer tie rod ends, and getting them out of the tapered ends.
Had to resort to the torch to get them to release, but they finally did.

Next I have to take the headers off, to get the steering box and idler arm de-mounted.

Should be a couple days of fun :)
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Years ago, when I had the cast aluminum Tee Pan, I had to remove it. Too close to the ground

I was thinking of modifying the oil pan a long time ago with cooling slots. Then possibly opting for a dry-sump system, for track. I didn't do either.


I hope the oil pan clears. It should. I have not planned on changing it. The motor mounts are TCP and so is the rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well I think I am 1/3 of the way on the disassembly. I loosened the passenger side header (Thankfully putting anti-seize on the bolts) and managed to wrestle the idler arm assembly off. It took a couple hours.

Now I get to work on the drivers side with the power steering box. I am hoping that goes as well, but it is much more complex. Plus I have to actually take that header right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
A few days into the steering change, and making progress.

Next step I have to lift up the engine and remove the drivers side header. I figure it will be a bit of a task, so am trying to be patient and not rush things.

I modified a lift bracket, so I can lift up one side of the engine.

I'll post again when it's out
 

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Discussion Starter #52
There are a few reasons. I think the Borgeson system, is a good intermediate system, and much better than the stock (back in the 60's ) ram style power steering.

I have always wanted the TCP system, but did not have the budget at the time. I want the precision of a rack, and theirs is the only proven system that works with the FE engine.

With the wide FE block and the Borgeson system, my header tube hits the steering box. The tube is really squished to clear, and I think effects that cylinder exhaust flow substantially. I spent a lot of time porting and polishing the heads. Kind of a waste after all that to squish the header that much. On the other side the Headers hit the Idler Arm bracket.

The current iteration of the FE tends to rattle the fillings as it is. Having it hit in the other places, is not desirable.

The rattle points will be gone, after this.

I'm sure I can convince myself of a number of other reasons. The front end will be slightly lighter. The center of gravity will be lower. The underside of the car will be more blingy.

The only thing I am not crazy about is having to revisit setting up the bump-steer again. Heck it's winter, so I should not feel too pressed for driving it, while it's raining LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #54
A good number of hours of wrestling with getting the header and steering box out.
Good thing is the majority of disassembly is completed.

Next step is restoring the header, and prepping for reinstall.
Restoration of any paint damage, way down in the engine bay where no one but me will ever see it.

Then prepping the steering column end for receiving the shaft fittings.

It all sounds really easy.

I think the most challenging part will be locating the power steering pump where it needs to be. This is a challenge more so because of the air conditioning compressor that must reside on the same side.

Anyway happy with the progress tonight
 

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I was wondering what the ham sandwich happened to that tube! I seem to remember having to "massage" one of my tubes with the borgeson box also.
 

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Wow, just viewed your build video. What a journey, hard to believe how much work you put into just restoring the body structure. Seeing the end result of so much hard work inspires me to keep working on my Coyote powered '70 Boss 302 tribute.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I was wondering what the ham sandwich happened to that tube! I seem to remember having to "massage" one of my tubes with the borgeson box also.
I really whacked the number 8 tube to get it to stop contacting the steering box.

I was glad to do it at the time, the Borgeson conversion, definitely fit the budget, and worked as a stop gap for a number of years.
It will be exciting to drive the car, without the header contacting the box and transmitting noise, never mind freeing up a good amount of exhaust flow on that tube :)

Wow, just viewed your build video. What a journey, hard to believe how much work you put into just restoring the body structure. Seeing the end result of so much hard work inspires me to keep working on my Coyote powered '70 Boss 302 tribute.

Alan
Thanks for your comments. Just keep making a little progress each time, and it will happen.

I just actually rewatched the video today too. It brought back a lot of memories of long hard nights after work. I like bolting stuff on, but wasn't a fan of the 2 years of body work. I could not have ever afforded to pay someone, plus I did get to do that my way. The results were worth it in the end.

It's been a few years, so seeing the video again was fun.

Thanks again for your guys' comments
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Do you have the pictures from the build video available so that I could look at them at a slower pace?

Thanks,

Alan
Hi Alan, Unfortunately the old website is long gone, and I closed the photobucket account.

There is an article a number of years old now, that stangnet and street legal tv did, It's called street muscle, now but has a few of the older pics. Hopefully that will help you a little
Pacific Thunder: A 1967 Shelby GT500 Pro Touring Tribute Car - Street Muscle

If there is something specific that you are looking for, I can try and dig up some old pics and post them for you.
 
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