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Discussion Starter #1
I switched to a tilt wheel steering column in my 70. It is the Ford factory tilt which , in 1970, was the first year Ford went from a tilt-away column to a tilt wheel as we know it today. Anyway, When I installed it, the column was too short to slide all the way down the shaft coming out of the steering box.

I checked the length of the column and the tilt wheel is 29 inches where the comparable points of measurement on the non-tilt wheel which fit in the car is 30.5 inches! I loosened the rag joint and slid it all the way down the shaft, so that I could tighten the bolt on the steering box side of the rag joint. Now, the steering column side of the rag joint barely contacts the steering column shaft. I need about another 3/4 to 1 inch of length on the shaft or the rag joint in order to bottom out the upstream side of the rag joint onto the steering column shaft.

The rag joint is about 1/4 inch shorter than the rag joint on my old column. In addition, on the old column the rag joint fit onto the steering column by sliding onto splines. On the tilt wheel column, the rag joint has a shaped opening and the column shaft has a flat spot on one side which fits into the opening. The opening is a collar, like the steering box side, and squeezes tight with a cross bolt.

I am at a loss here to know what to do. Did I purchase a tilt wheel for a non-stang vehicle and get "shafted" (pun intended)? Is there a longer rag joint fitting which will give me back the 3/4 inch or so I need to make the coupling? Does anyone have a tilt-wheel steering column on a 1970 stang? It is kind of perplexing since none of my literature addresses this topic.

Again, the free dinner offer is open to whoever can help me solve this one. The car is dangerous to drive at present.

Thanks.

sure it's fun, but it's only a car.
 

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Put a tilt in my 69 mach and encountered the same problem. Here's what i found and how i dealt with it.
The firewall seal/bracket on the non tilt column had an alignment tab/slot and the tube had a flange (more like a bump) that was slightly different from the tilt version. I "modified" the tube by sawing off the bump and altering the clamp/seal alignment tab. This allowed the tube to move down that all important 3/4 inch and the mod was covered by the seal/clamp. The column mounting clamp is slotted to allow a normal mount. Looks and works great.
P.S. Also had to shorten the turn signal harness cover to get a good fit. Hope the judges don't measure to find my steering wheel/column is actually 1/2 to 3/4 inch closer to the dash (i can live with the difference). Anybody got a better method let me know.
Hope this helps.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking of doing that. The alternative was to rebuild the rag joint coupling and have a 1 inch thick rag joint. I'll try your approach, it seems safer. Thanks much for your reply.

sure it's fun, but it's only a car.
 
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