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OK guys. You talked me into it. I went to Walmart and bought a 6 pack and a timing light.

My eyeball on the distributor rotor was off by about 25 degrees /forums/images/icons/blush.gif. I had it about 15 degrees ADTC. I reset it to 10 degrees BTDC. Then I tried to double check that I don't have the distributor 180 degrees out. I pulled the #1 plug and started cranking, but I couldn't feel pressure building at any point. Anyway I put it back together and it still won't start.

Now, for one thing, I KNOW the thing isn't 180 degrees off, because I took off the valve cover last night and watched both valves close as I rotated it and once I reached TDC again the rotor was at #1.

But what I'm obsessing over now is this. Why can't I feel any puff of air? Now, I'm cranking it with a socket on the crank. And I can't turn it very fast that way. The pistons and rings are new. Could I be loosing compression because the rings aren't seated?

I'm wondering if I've got too much lifter preload with the roller rockers. I tightened the nuts down snug and then gave them each another 1/2 turn and then locked them. That's what I thought I was supposed to do. Was that wrong. Now that the lifters have pressure on them it seems like that might actually be holding the valves off the seats.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I haven't started in on the 6-pack yet, but I'm getting close /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
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You can not tell if the piston is on an intake or compression stroke by looking at the valves. You have to be sure the piston is on a compression stroke! There are several ways to do this. I am a bit alarmed by the fact that you can not feel a puff of air with the #1 plug out and your finger over the plug hole. Since you can not feel the puff use a thin long blade screwdriver to test for the height of the piston. DO NOT LEAVE THE SCREWDRIVER IN THE HOLE WHILE CRANKING! I turn the engine by hand while doing this test. When the piston is at TDC most of the screwdriver will be out of the hole (obviously) This will at least tell you if your distributor is 180 out. Have you verified spark? My guess is that you are 180 out.

Rick
 
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I had a similiar problem, after dropping the engine in the car it took for ever to get the car started. The timing was off as well as the carbs were not getting fuel. That was the problem it took for ever for the fuel to reach the carbs. Could this be the problem. You may want to look down the carb to see if the jets are passing fuel into the bowl.

66 Convertible
66 T-5 GT Coupe (export)
 

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start with the basics. Fuel, compression, spark.

Is it getting spark? put a spark plug on a wire and watch it spark.

Is it getting fuel? if you pump the accelrator pump you should see gas squirt inside the carb.

Is it getting compression? remove the center distributor wire, and #1 plug, have someone crank the engine and hold your hand close to the hole, you should feel it puffing. Compression gauge is even better.

Does it want to start? get a can of starter spray, put a screwdriver in the carb to prop open the choke a bit and give it a little squirt and crank it, if your close it will want to try to start, or backfire.



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I did the same thing trying to adjust my valves with roller rockers. I followed the Chilton manual and never could get it right. I lost compression and when I tried to start it you could hear the starter spining fast because there was no resistance. The easiest thing to do is to loosen all roller rockers and then start then car. Adjust each one making noise and then secure. It makes for a mess but sure is quicker and easier. Good luck.

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Make sure you get your finger right in the spark plug hole when looking for TDC. Have someone else turn the motor over by hand while you check for the puff of air. Its gotta be there or theres no piston in the cylinder! Thats where I would start then the usual other 2 spark and fuel.
 
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When I was going through all of this I didn't have a helper so I found that having of the remote starter switches made it possible to turn the engine over from inside the engine bay and take various the various readings and measurements at the same time.

I'm not talking about the $100 version that allows you to start the car from your living room. There's a switch type that connects to 2 posts on the solenoid. You press a button after connecting it and the car turns over. It was $15.

It works the same as putting a screwdriver across the terminals but with much more control, plus you can hold the switch in your hand and press it when you're not near the solenoid.

You may have already knew about this but somebody will find this post useful. It's a real lifesaver when you have to bump the engine slightly. A helpers version of slightly may differ quite a bit. Now you have total control.

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