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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Over the weekend I had a bit of unexpected fender rubbing when turning through a sharp dip and rise in a parking lot. Needless to say a few expletives were flying out of my mouth. Fender = screwed up and brand new tire = wasted.

I am partly blaming this on the older Golden Legion, at least that's what I believe it is, repro fender from the 1990's, which I have never liked for more than one reason. The fender lip does not have the very slight curl up to it like the OEM and it is actually 1/10" wider.

I've had 215 60 15 tires on 15x7 4.25 Magnum 500s for over a decade, and this has never been a problem until now. The ride height seems to be the same as it has been for the last several years after I did the Arning upper control arm relocation. The 1 inch lowering coils are 10 years old but don't seem to have sagged other than the settling like they did at first.

I picked up a roller on eBay for 20 bucks, so I'm looking for tips on rolling the fenders with 20+ year old but still fairly nice paint that I prefer to at least try to keep from damaging. I would appreciate any tips or suggestions, like things that may not be mentioned in tutorials or maybe choosing beginning and ending points.

Heavy Duty Roll Fender Reforming Extending Tool Wheel Arch Roller Flaring Former | eBay

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Tip #1 • Use heat from a hair dryer or heat gun, to soften paint.. hot enough to be able to only hold fingers on paint for 3 seconds.(a friend to help is handy, as the heat dissipates rapidly.) Having panel facing the sun helps to slow the heat loss.

Tip #2 • Take your time, don't get greedy and try to fold too quickly, you need to work the whole fender arch a little at a time.

Tip #3 • Don't overheat the paint, and scortch it.


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here's a video for your tool, BTW you got a good deal, those go for $128+45 in shipping:
Let us know how it comes out
 

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IMO your experience is pretty common, it can take years to encounter the perfect worst-case combination of steering angle and suspension load to cause a problem. Years ago I broke a swaybar link on my 65 turning in to a really sharp drive that racked the car hard, causing a bind.
 

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Sounds like a lot of work. Glad I used my die grinder and the same carbide bit I ported my heads with to trim the fender lips down to 1/4" many moons ago. Took about 15 minutes a side and cost me zero.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tip #1 • Use heat from a hair dryer or heat gun, to soften paint.. hot enough to be able to only hold fingers on paint for 3 seconds.(a friend to help is handy, as the heat dissipates rapidly.) Having panel facing the sun helps to slow the heat loss.

Tip #2 • Take your time, don't get greedy and try to fold too quickly, you need to work the whole fender arch a little at a time.

Tip #3 • Don't overheat the paint, and scortch it.


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I can imagine that wanting to go to far too fast yields a bad outcome. I'll keep that all in mind when I start to tackle this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IMO your experience is pretty common, it can take years to encounter the perfect worst-case combination of steering angle and suspension load to cause a problem. Years ago I broke a swaybar link on my 65 turning in to a really sharp drive that racked the car hard, causing a bind.
I guess that is exactly what happened. I found the worst case scenario while turning around to get this pic. If you look close you can actually see the buggered fender. Not sure it was worth it. LOL...

759471
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like a lot of work. Glad I used my die grinder and the same carbide bit I ported my heads with to trim the fender lips down to 1/4" many moons ago. Took about 15 minutes a side and cost me zero.
I hadn't considered that option, but have seen someone doing it before.
 

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Its funny, I had 225x50-16s installed on new 8" rims on a bone stock body fastback. Drive around the block and pulled back in saying something in my rim/tire combo was screwed. Old Mexican owner turns to his 19 year old kid and he comes out of the office wth a baseball bat. If this old Mexican hadn't taken good care of me for many years, I might have been concerned. His kid rolled the bat over the tire a few times each time leaning a little more on it and that was it, its been fine for 22 years or so... It aint that hard, just do baby steps. In my experience on projects like this, it starts out fine as you are worried about screwing it up. By the third one your getting bored and impatient and either a) get greedy and take too big of a bite or heat the paint too fast b) you finish the job and decide it needs; "one more time"...
 

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Hey TX65, keep in mind, rolling the guards will help your situation, but, it's a very real possibility that you could still have some tyre/fender contact when done..

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I hope you paid with a credit card or Paypal. It looks like the seller has a poor feedback score.
 

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So everybody says everything but the Eastwood fender roller sucks. I went to town on the double walled rear quarters on my 65 this week with the Eastwood roller and won big time. I know its all commie regardless but the Eastwood roller did not break and I was trying. More negative camber would help as it moves the top of the tire in, I'm at -3º but I don't drive on the street much. You can't achieve much negative camber on a 65-66 without this.Lower arm camber kit 65-66 Mustang - Falcon Comet - Opentracker Racing Products Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I hope you paid with a credit card or Paypal. It looks like the seller has a poor feedback score.
Yeah I saw that but thought it was worth the risk for the price. It says it shipped. I paid with PayPal. If it doesn't come I found some for under $50. Its interesting that it says 286 sold but he only has 8 feedback scores with the good ones being buyer and the negative ones being seller. Also it says item location is South Dakota, but the sellers name says based in Poland. I've never seen a feedback score that bad. Probably should have paid closer attention to it. That's what happens when you order things on the phone instead of the laptop. Lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey TX65, keep in mind, rolling the guards will help your situation, but, it's a very real possibility that you could still have some tyre/fender contact when done..

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I hope not, these are only 215 60 15 tires, but you could be right.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So everybody says everything but the Eastwood fender roller sucks. I went to town on the double walled rear quarters on my 65 this week with the Eastwood roller and won big time. I know its all commie regardless but the Eastwood roller did not break and I was trying. More negative camber would help as it moves the top of the tire in, I'm at -3º but I don't drive on the street much. You can't achieve much negative camber on a 65-66 without this.Lower arm camber kit 65-66 Mustang - Falcon Comet - Opentracker Racing Products Good luck!
I have heard that before about the Eastwood roller. Many of them look identical and could have come from the same factory. Who knows for sure though. Since my car is a street car, I'm not sure excessive camber is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Its funny, I had 225x50-16s installed on new 8" rims on a bone stock body fastback. Drive around the block and pulled back in saying something in my rim/tire combo was screwed. Old Mexican owner turns to his 19 year old kid and he comes out of the office wth a baseball bat. If this old Mexican hadn't taken good care of me for many years, I might have been concerned. His kid rolled the bat over the tire a few times each time leaning a little more on it and that was it, its been fine for 22 years or so... It aint that hard, just do baby steps. In my experience on projects like this, it starts out fine as you are worried about screwing it up. By the third one your getting bored and impatient and either a) get greedy and take too big of a bite or heat the paint too fast b) you finish the job and decide it needs; "one more time"...
This definitely looks like a task where patience is the key. Its funny how sometimes things like that work out so well.
 
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