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Many of us have discovered little things over the years that could help others, post em up! Here are a couple:

1.) When removing a starter from a 65-66 with 289/302 and long tube headers, it comes out and goes in much easier if you un-bolt the idler arm from the frame so that the steering linkage can be swung down out of the way.

2.) I had a new running horse fender emblem that I wanted to install in a 66 grill ala Shelby, but no hardware. I considered fabricating some from sheetmetal similar to what comes with the Scott Drake units, but thought of a clever alternative. Wanted to create something that could turn the pins into threaded studs. I considered drilling little piece of 1/4" all thread and epoxying it on. Then I had another idea. I took a scrap piece of brake line and a #6x32 tap and created threads on the inside of the tube. I cut it to length (7/16" long +/-) First I thought I would epoxy that over the pin, but then found the little barrel nuts that come with the emblems fit snugly in the tube. I did cut about 1/8" off the pin so a #6 screw could go in further. Making two of these and adding a couple screws and small fender washers and voila. Works perfectly. The pins slide snugly into the end of the tubes just as if they were going into a fender. No epoxy and totally removable.
 

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Use a toilet paper / paper towel tube to prevent losing the nut under the floor when removing the front seats.

Rotate the gas nozzle about 30-45 degrees when filling up to reduce splash back.

Double up gaskets on the gas cap to get it straight.

Use a clamp and a magnet for a great phone mount: DIY Phone Mount

The export brace isn't wrong, your car is.
 

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1) 65 66 front fenders, front corner where the hood meets it, exposed part were it turns 90 degrees and heads down towards the apron, is prone to cracking right along that ridge along the hood.
I weld up the U shaped flange on the fender behind the headlight bucket, and if the fender has been on a car for a while, I turn it over and reflow the steel as it is stressed.

2) 65 66 headlight buckets, upper inner cracked off mounting tab. I drill a hole in the bucket up in that corner into the hidden flange on the fender at a 45 degree angle. I run a sheet metal screw up into the hole, the fender hole being slightly smaller so the screw passes through the bucket. I align the headlight bucket to the hood and fender using this screw (tighten or loosen) and then put in the other 3 bolts to the fender. Often the captive nut in the fender is in the wrong place, so it has to be removed and correctly located.

3) Remove the front seat when removing a long shaft, 65 - 67 steering gear box.

4) Make friends with the local PD, and RESPECTFULLY ask for a drug dog to check the Mustang. I find drugs somewhere in about 15% of the cars I buy. Better in a controlled situation than along the highway.

5) Replace that 2" long rubber hose between the sending unit and the fuel line with modern impervious to solvent rubber hose.

6) Inspect the fuel line and brake lines while the car is up in the air on a lift for issues, like crimping, crushed, damaged, kinked, etc. lines. 55 years of crud flying up is not kind.

7) Find all the drain hole in the car, and high pressure spray backwards through them, and watch what comes out, and see if there is any sign of it being plugged up.

8) The particle board filler panel in the trunk on the left side, can be flipped over and put on the right side side under the spare tire to keep crud from falling and make the trunk area more attractive.

9) 65 - 68 heater core: solder on 2" extensions, moving the hose clamp into the engine compartment. Makes changing a hose a snap and prevents leaks into the car at the hose pipe joint.

10) Lubricate the hood hinges. Yes, you can bend a hood at the hinge.

11) Aluminum intakes are often thicker at the mounting surface, so the bolts that came out of a cast iron one may only catch a thread or 2. Using all thread to find out how long the bolts need to be.
 

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When installing a thermostat, push the disc open against the spring far enough to put an aspirin tablet in between to hold the thermostat open. That will allow the air in the system to bleed out immediately when filling, the aspirin dissolves and the thermostat goes back to normal function.
 

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When taking down the rear view mirror, sun visor brackets and coat hooks to replace a headliner, put the screws back in the holes in the body to locate where where to re-hang the hardware. Make a tiny hole with the screw driver, back out the screw and then re-attach the chrome without guessing and making extra holes in that nice new head liner.
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Binder clips make an easy (easier than windlace) pinch-remove-and-re-pinch holder for installing headliners, kick panel carpets, etc when you need to stretch, pull, and reposition something before and just after adhesive is applied, until it dries.
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A piece of regular insulated wire or a long piece of weed trimmer line makes an excellent thin, durable, non-stretching and reusable substitute for "rope" or string for pulling in a front or rear windshield with a new gasket, a little painter's tape helps keep the glazing compound off the paint, and WD-40 is an excellent cleaner for taking the gooey Bedding & Glazing Compound off tools and things after a glass installation.
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When changing your oil filter, pour new oil into the new filter and let it soak in and absorb into the filter media. When you spin on the new filter, refill the engine and start up, the filter doesn't have to absorb oil before it is sent to your starving bearings.

An old mobile phone with a few scratches etc still makes an excellent video camera to look under a dash, inside a cowl vent from the heater box or after removing that or the driver vent, looking behind fenders, under frames etc even if it has no service, or one of those old "selfie" sticks can be used to do a walk-around etc without having to lay on the ground.
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Use a toilet paper / paper towel tube to prevent losing the nut under the floor when removing the front seats.
This one is so simple. In the 40 years that I've owned my car, it never occurred to me.
 

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If you use a 4-way lug wrench, wrap a piece of reflective tape around the shaft of the wrench you use. It never fails that if you're changing a tire at night, the first three that you try to use on the lug nuts will be the wrong ones.
 

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Binder clips can also be used to attach mudflaps non-destructively! I check mine every once in a while to make sure they're not coming loose but it is really quite remarkable that they've held on for 60,000+ miles. But this is a great way to protect your paint on the way to a show, and the mudflaps can be removed once you get there of course. Or just keep them on for forever like me, because I think they look cool.

If a BFH isn't working, before you get the bigger hammer, pause and wonder if maybe there is some other reason that the BFH isn't working. You know, like you forgot to unbolt the other half of the part. This assists in avoiding parts destruction... sometimes.

If you stick a magnet on the inside of your sockets, you can keep from losing nuts in crazy places. Putty also works, though not as well as a magnet.

Use magnetic cable clamps to hang wires and hoses and whatever in places where you don't want to drill a hole for a permanent bracket. They're expensive but man they are so worth it.
 
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I had a hard time getting a driver side axle out of a housing that had been sitting 30+ years because I wanted the locker pumpkin...chain snatch, BFH, puller, heat, nothing worked...but I drove a big chisel between the back of the axle flange and across the old ratty brake shoes and BAM !!
Popped right loose.
 

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A rubber band, looped around the "cage" portion of the thermostat, out the water neck outlet and looped around it will keep the thermostat in place while you attach the thermostat housing to the intake manifold/block.

A 6" piece of rubber fuel hose makes a great spark plug installation tool. Stick over the end of the plug and screw the plug into the hole. Simply pull off when done.

Did you know your vernier caliper has a depth gauge? As you extend the "jaws" do you see the round "wire" on the opposite end move out? Yep...that's what it's for.

Use your timing light, connected to the coil wire, "trigger" taped down, wires run out the back of the hood and the light taped to your passenger-side windshield wiper arm to isolate, while driving, whether you have an ignition or fuel system issue. If the car starts dying and the light is flashing "wonky" it's an ignition issue. If the light keeps flashing consistently it's a fuel issue.

Wite-Out pens make great tools for marking timing marks, references for pulling distributors, even making notes about "last service mileage" on upper hoses, etc.

Four-inch long bolts with their heads cut off and the end ground to a rounded shape make great "guides" for intake manifold installation (and holding the gaskets) when placed at the outside corners.

Removing old pieces of exhaust pipe from mufflers or other pipes after they've been clamped with wire or "u-bolt" clamps can be a pain. Cut the pipe off leaving a couple inches exposed then heat the "crimp" in the muffler or pipe until red hot then slowly tap the stub INWARD while keeping the "crimp" hot. About 3/4 inch is all you need. Let it cool then grab the stub with pliers and pull out.

Pack the sealing ring groove at the fuel tank sender location with Vaseline to hold the ring in place while you install the sender.

When installing front fenders, cut some "washers" from pieces of an used gallon milk jug to place under 2 bolts on either side to temporarily avoid marring the finish while you adjust the fender forward and back. After you have it where you want it and have put other bolts in place, permanently, pull these bolts and remove your washers, then reinstall.

When servicing drum brakes, don't forget to inspect the 6 "wear pads" on each backing plate to ensure they are not grooved or scored and repair as needed. Light gouging can be removed with a surface conditioning disc. Heavy damage should be repaired by welding and re-grinding flat.

Before installing the right front fender, run a piece of twine, string, fishing line, etc., out the antenna wire hole in the cowl and up through the antenna hole in the fender. Tie a Q-Tip on the end to keep it from dropping back down the hole. When you're ready to install the antenna, tape the string to the antenna lead to guide it inside the car.

When bending mild steel tubing into a tight radius, coil the tube TIGHTLY along the site of the bend with a length of scrap bare copper wire from an old piece of Romex. The consistent pressure of the wire will keep the line from kinking. Since we're on the subject of mild steel tubing... on short runs where one "component" can move, like from a master cylinder to a distribution block, make one "loop" in the line about 3-4 inches in diameter to allow the line to "flex" as the master cylinder moves with every brake application.
 

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how about the use of a claw hammer to remove the windshield wipers from the studs (with plenty of padding at the fulcrum, of course).
 

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Cut the head off a fine thread WP bolt to use as an alignment stud when installing the pulley and clutch or fan.

If concerned with an original appearance, when at the JY always grab a few extra oem fastners to keep for spares. Ive got a bucket of JY bolts.

If you keep your spare tire under a cover, grab a mini-spare form a SN95 Mustang, weighs less, will fit without a spacer. * Speed is limited to 55mph as per the warning label.
 

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Wite-Out pens make great tools for marking timing marks, references for pulling distributors, even making notes about "last service mileage" on upper hoses, etc.
Keeping a silver Sharpie in the tool box is great for these, and also for making reference marks on other dark surfaces.
 

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When I did my heads I wanted them really clean so I sand blasted before the valve job (yes i was warned against it) after rebuild sand particles kept falling from water passageways so I called my machinist at Champion Auto who told me to fill the passageways with shaving cream. This would suspend the sand and afterwards could wash out when flushing. Amazing. Good thread.
 

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Hmmm....some great ideas....not much left for me to contribute.

Keep a couple magnets around for the shavings and metal dust. Then use compressed air to remove them from the magnet.

When doing any rattle can spraying, keep a cardboard box handy to spray into. Make a quick spray inside to check spray, then hold can upside down and spray until the nozzle is clear when done. Cuts down on over spray.

Drop in to the local laundry mat and see it they have a shelf for old sheets, table cloths and blankets. Our local rents cloth goods to the hospital, catering businesses etc then once they are getting worn or stained set them out for sale. I pick them up for $2-3 a piece and they make excellent drop cloths: much easier to use than newspapers and plastic and usable over and over again.

I picked up one of those folding portable coat racks at a yard sale a few years ago and modified some hangers so now, instead of holding coats, I hang parts. I can also drape one or two of the previously mentioned table cloths around 3/4 of it and now have a small paint booth. Simple to take down when I need the extra room.
 
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