Vintage Mustang Forums banner
41 - 60 of 74 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thanks for all the replies folks. As some of you know and are guiding me through a full cowl replacement and while I’ve got my column removed it’s an obvious time to address and old loose box and any other steering issues. I still like the simplicity of the Borgeson solution and eliminating the control valve (that I just freakin purchased) but I think I’m going to reach out to CHOCK as a first step. I’m certainly happy to use the stock system as long as I can get it working well and get some longevity out of it without aggravation if that is attainable. I turned 60 today so I guess I just went from middle aged to officially old or something like that. Is it too much to ask for a decent steering experience?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
My opinion - and it's based on some experience!

If you have original equipment P/S and it's sloppy AND you wish to retain P/S then have a good quality rebuild on the original system, then add as much caster as necessary to get good directional stability.
The absolute key is good condition good quality balljoints, bushes, tierod ends and getting the caster, camber and toe set up as per SoT or Opentracker dimensions.

Adding EPAS to a sloppy non-power set-up will give you light but still sloppy steering. (I did this to a 1990's TVR Griffith and had to replace the non-power rack after the EPAS was installed)....

The Borgensen set-up looks appealing, but there's enough negative feedback to discourage me.

Just my opinion, YMMV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LSG

· Registered
1966 Mustang convertible. 289 V8 3 speed, a/c, Borgeson auto steering. Been in our family it's whole
Joined
·
26 Posts
I had stock steering in my 1966 convertible. That was never an issue when I was younger and with biased tires. I put the Borgeson on my car 3 years ago and I kick myself for not doing it sooner. For me it's a no brainer. I've had no trouble with it and really enjoy the drive more. For me, it was worth the price.


Can anyone give me the benefit of their experience with the Borgesen power steering conversion with their 65/66 or other. I currently have power steering with the standard box, pump and a new control valve which I haven’t had much success with. I’d love to get that clunky control valve out of the loop but have some questions first:

Is the Borgesen box a significant step up from the standard b

what is the all in cost if I’ve already got the standard pump ?

I’ve got a new control valve, that has been used for a few weeks. is there a market for it and roughly what’s it worth ?

What’s the cost of just rebuilding the existing box?

thanks community for your opinions.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I had stock steering in my 1966 convertible. That was never an issue when I was younger and with biased tires. I put the Borgeson on my car 3 years ago and I kick myself for not doing it sooner. For me it's a no brainer. I've had no trouble with it and really enjoy the drive more. For me, it was worth the price.
Thanks drjrr. I appreciate your experience. I will be going to 215s or even 225s. That’s a factor I didn’t mention in my initial post. Not sure it would have changed the outcomes of any of the replies. It seems like both systems can work well if installed properly. At least that’s what this thread seems to be indicating.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
46,165 Posts
Thanks drjrr. I appreciate your experience. I will be going to 215s or even 225s. That’s a factor I didn’t mention in my initial post. Not sure it would have changed the outcomes of any of the replies. It seems like both systems can work well if installed properly. At least that’s what this thread seems to be indicating.
I got 215/65's, 16:1 box, Shelby Quick-Steer and wouldn't trade it for all the power steering in China....
 

· Premium Member
1966 GT 4spd
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
I’ve got SOT suspension, rebuilt steering ram(control box) from Chock, roller bearing idler arm, 225F/17 tires and recommend alignment. It went from sloppy n loose to now having great feel. My box only has a little over 100k on it but will send to Chock to have it rebuilt this year. Only plans are to add the quick steer kit to it.

Overall when done right, you’ll be happy.

Chris
 
  • Like
Reactions: RudeMan

· Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
My opinion - and it's based on some experience!

If you have original equipment P/S and it's sloppy AND you wish to retain P/S then have a good quality rebuild on the original system, then add as much caster as necessary to get good directional stability.
The absolute key is good condition good quality balljoints, bushes, tierod ends and getting the caster, camber and toe set up as per SoT or Opentracker dimensions.

Adding EPAS to a sloppy non-power set-up will give you light but still sloppy steering. (I did this to a 1990's TVR Griffith and had to replace the non-power rack after the EPAS was installed)....

The Borgensen set-up looks appealing, but there's enough negative feedback to discourage me.

Just my opinion, YMMV.
I know I’m gonna feel stupid for asking but what is EPAS ?
 

· Premium Member
1966 GT 4spd
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
I know I’m gonna feel stupid for asking but what is EPAS ?
Electric power assisted steering..using an electric motor attached to the steering column instead of a pump and hardware.

Chris
 
  • Like
Reactions: blueovalfan68

· Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I’ve got SOT suspension, rebuilt steering ram(control box) from Chock, roller bearing idler arm, 225F/17 tires and recommend alignment. It went from sloppy n loose to now having great feel. My box only has a little over 100k on it but will send to Chock to have it rebuilt this year. Only plans are to add the quick steer kit to it.

Overall when done right, you’ll be happy.

Chris
Thanks. Where do I get Chock’s number ?
 

· Premium Member
1966 GT 4spd
Joined
·
2,423 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I've got a 67 coupe with factory power steering. Soon I will need to rebuild as I believe its all original. Since the 1967 has the 'stab-o-matic' solid shaft, is it possible, straightforward and recommended to replace shaft with something like a 1968 rag-joint set up? Objective would be safety improvement. Thanks for any input.
 
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
Top