[Huskinhano]

Basically, I want to lower my upper A arms 1". However, I basically have a complete lack of time to work on my 66 now. I'm going to put a Monte' Carlo bar on, along with a export brace and a 1" front bar. I already have installed KYB's. In addition, I'm going to lower the car 1" by using lowering blocks in the back and cut the front springs.

If I don't lower the arms, I can get the work down somewhat quickly but taking the front apart to drill the holes will set me back more then I'd like.

I've heard that lowering the A arms for the street, doesn't make a big difference. What I'd like to know, is there anyone who's done the drop, with all other things being the same, no other changes at the same time. Does it make a difference, is it worth while at this time?

One last thing. My 66 still has front drums, I do have a set of Granada spindles and disks that I plan on putting on one day. I'm thinking this might be a more approprriate time to lower the arms. Thanks.

 

[RichLong]

I'd do the front end drop when I put the spindles on. But, I'd probably do it all at the same time. But thats me!

 

[Guest]

If you cut the springs, but don't use stiffer springs, you will probably have problems bottoming out.

Shorter springs, same spring rate, same travel = bottoming out.

It takes about two extra hours to move the control arm locations (if you are prepared).

Either way, when you lower the car, you will effect camber and toe-in. This is because the static height of the control is changed. The car should be aligned. Considering the cost of an alignment, I would do the drop and springs at the same time.

 

[66coupe289]

Tom,

When you have the springs out, it is not that big of deal to lower the A-arms. Undo the two nuts that hold the A arm on. (gotta use and open end wrench if you engine is installed. Mark the spots using a template. Drill using several drill sizes to step up the hole size. Reinstall A-arms with the same shims. This mod does not hurt and is free. Do it now and save the additional alignment costs.

You have to pull the springs to do the drop, you do not have to pull the springs to install the spindles. It only makes sense to do it while the springs are out. Just my .02

BTW, cutting the springs will effectively increase the spring rate some. Not knowing the condition of your springs, the amount you want to lower the car, it is hard to say if you may bottom out. Tip, do not cut one spring and install it to check height. The uncut spring on the other side will hold the car up. I trashed a set of springs doing that. Cut 1/3-1/2 coil out of each spring and install them both to check height. It is better to have to pull the springs again to cut some more than to have to pull the springs again to replace units that are too short.

 

[johnpro]

Personally, I've never understood the logic of cutting springs and going to all that work (especially on old springs or springs of an unknown age), when new already lowered springs only cost about $60.

I did not lower my A-arms when I built my front end (I wish I had). I have 620 1" lowered springs, 1" Aadco sway bar, Monte Carlo bar, export brace, and all polly bushings. My car corners like a dream. If it handled even better from lowering the a-arms, I'd probably never get out of my car, as it's already so fun to drive.