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For the love of God, hire an experienced framer before this goes the way of the slab.
 

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We got a little done. We got 95% of a 26 ft wall up. That was all we could get done in a half day of work. It took 5 people to lift and put up that wall. It will have a few windows in this wall, but we are going to do that later.
How much gets done tomorrow depends on the weather. The next back 24 ft wall, then 26 ft wall. We have decided to split these in half and put them up, then tie them together. It will be much easier to raise the walls this way.
I have to say. I am overwhelmed at how tall 12 ft walls are, and we still have another story. This is going to be big, real big.
A pic.
Joe, one thing that kind of caught my concern here. You don't have jack studs on the door way to hold up the header, and your header needs to be 5.5" thick but you just have a single 2x10 (or 12 maybe) there right now. Adding more in later maybe?
 

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Joe, one thing that kind of caught my concern here. You don't have jack studs on the door way to hold up the header, and your header needs to be 5.5" thick but you just have a single 2x10 (or 12 maybe) there right now. Adding more in later maybe?
That door opening looks pretty wide, some people choose to frame in the block opening. I didn't want to mess with covering mine with siding, etc, so I framed up to the edge on mine.

My recommendation would be to frame in the windows now if you can, even if you cover them over with sheeting. Going back and adding mine in were a complete PIA, it's even more of a PIA if the windows don't fit between two studs. I made the mistake of telling the window people I wanted a standard two stud width window 72" tall (to match house). After I placed my order I finally paid attention to the window RO dimensions, 32.5x73". Well crap, I now had to move a stud (or cut it) for 7 windows. It was easier to smack it out and move it. I had to do one where I started the sheeting and it was not fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #904
I will post more pic's.
I have installed jack studs/cripplers, 2x6 treated, on the side and a 2x6 has been installed under the door header. The header is actually 2x16's doubled up with some 7/16 OSB sandwiched in between them. That should be more than strong enough for a side door.

There were two reasons I chose to go the PIA route with the one window.
1.) I have not ordered the windows yet. No excuses. I just know I am pushing my luck with Michigan seasons. I want this weathered in ASAP.
2.) I changed my building plan a touch with the foundation. I moved the people door back a foot. Now I want get a better look at it and then decide where I would like the window to be on that particular wall. Also what kind of window.
3.) The 2nd floor, floor truss will be delivered on Friday. I will have to make window decisions soon because I have to frame the second floor. On the second floor I have planned windows on the gable ends.

More pic's later.








Today's plan is to get the back 24 ft wall done and up. Then lay out the 26 ft wall on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #905
For the love of God, hire an experienced framer before this goes the way of the slab.
My brother has been framing houses since he was 16 years old. He is 47 now. A few years ago he built a 2 story garage addition onto his house. He even spent a few years being a Final home inspector for Pulte homes.
If anything. This will be over built in some areas.
He will be laying it out to the building plans, and code. I will be doing most of the grunt work. I am in great hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #906
Another long day. Making progress.
 

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I think the reason the framing looks visually "off" at first glance is that you're using 2x6s intead of 2x4s. The proportions are really different from the framing you commonly see. I couldn't tell that from the initial far-away photos posted and I also thought, "Where's the sill plate?! Why isn't the door header a doubled-up 2x12?! Surely this can't be code in Michigan!" Your close up photos explained a lot.
 

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i would either use tapcons or powder driven fasteners to attach you treated door jacks to the cmu walls, right now you are asking them to move over time by having no attachment for the last 2 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #909
i would either use tapcons or powder driven fasteners to attach you treated door jacks to the cmu walls, right now you are asking them to move over time by having no attachment for the last 2 feet.
I plan to use tapcons. Only after all the walls are up, and that front corner is built, up, and square. Right now only the back left corner is tied together level and square. I will be done framing the long 26 ft, right side wall today. Then tomorrow evening I will have help lifting, and setting it up.
Then Saturday. I will build the 2 small walls on each side of the garage door, and set the header.

Hopefully by Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday I will have the 2nd story floor trusses installed.

One step at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #910
Wall #3 is done.
Just waiting on helpers to lift it in place. Should be tomorrow evening.

 

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Excellent progress. I am also glad to see that you sheetedtge walls before standing them up. Keep up the progress.

LJ
 

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Discussion Starter #912 (Edited)
We held off a day to put up the walls.
I needed a day to gather more man power. It is a good thing I did. That wall was heavy. Even in 2 pieces.
We got started around 5:30 pm, because we all have day jobs. We finished just before dark.
Some of the bracing is extreme, but I was concerned about a lot of wind coming in the next 2 days.
The floor trusses will be delivered in an hour.
I already know this is going to be pain because they have a fork lift and not a crane.
Pic's.


 

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Awesome! How are you guys planning to set the trusses?
 

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Discussion Starter #914
Awesome! How are you guys planning to set the trusses?
These weigh in at 100 pounds each. I think my brother and I can walk them up ladders.
As for How to actually set them in place?
There are a several different methods. I haven't decided on a particular method to use with this kind of truss. I am going to investigate it more. I will try to call the Building inspector today.
I was thinking about using what is called a Strong Board down the center. Just 2x4's to tie them together down the center and inside of the truss.
Then using what is called a Ribbon Board on the outside. You cut a notch in the top/end of the truss, and run 2x4 around the ends to tie them together.
Then again that might be total overkill.
Some designs show just running some 1 inch plywood on the outside open ends only. Since the floor and 2nd story sill plate is strong enough. :shrug:
 

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Took 3 of us to do my trusses. Took an 8 ft 2x4 and nailed a foot long 2x4 to the end creating a V. One guy on each end, set the truss in upside down and spin it up into position with one guy pushing it up with the 2x4 and holding it. Had a 2x4 marked the same as the top sill, nailed that near the top of the truss and lined up each truss. Goes pretty fast once you get the first couple set.
 

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Usually the truss company will have drawings that dictate where strong backs and blocking are required.

Also, any particularly heavy loads should be carried at a panel point (where the diagonal web members meet the horizontal bottom chord). It would also be helpful to install a strong back at that location to help transfer some of the load to adjacent trusses.
 

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Discussion Starter #919
It has been a busy few days.
Getting the header up was a B. Just me and my brother. We got one truss in. I am debating weather or not to rent a lift for a day to get the remaining truss's up, decking, and a good bit of plywood. I'm feeling pretty beat.
Pics.




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