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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A combination of @Shaun @ Street or Track 's 3 link and sticky new RE71's has eliminated all throttle steer and yaw. I really noticed it last Sunday at the Tire Rack test track. I count on throttle steer to help on the slaloms and yaw to help going around the skid pad. I was a long and high speed slalom Sunday so not having the throttle steer wasn't horrible but not being able to set the car on the 270º trip around the skid pad put the hurt on the right front tire because I was turning hard left. In the past I had gone around the skid pad with the wheel straight or sightly right looking at the grass in the middle almost drifting at times. I played with tire pressures ending up with 30 up front and 31 in the rear trying to loosen it up. I ended up on the sidewalls up front and the arrows are all but gone!
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I guess I need to raise the watts link center pivot to create some oversteer? Does that involve readjusting the links as well? Maybe some softer springs out back? My spine would approve of that! I ended up being 11th out of 39 overall.🤷‍♂️

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I would think a softer spring would increase the grip to the rear? stiffer rear springs would cause the weight to transfer to the rear outside tire faster than the front outside tire, thus causing more oversteer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wait, are you trying to grip or slide?

Allen
I’ve always counted on a bit of rear slide in long sweeper’s and slaloms to reduce the amount of wheel I had to use. This is the first time I have ever had decent rear grip.
 

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RE's don't like heat. I would raise your tire press in the front 2-3 lbs. Rears are fine. If you want more rear slip, raise your 3 link for stiffer rear. Higher the link, less body roll, stiffer rear, more slip. It appears you're pushing the front.

Sorry, trying to remember the rule of thumb..

If the car is understeering / pushing – loosen the front or tighten the rear.

If the car is oversteering / tail out – tighten the front or loosen the rear.

This has really worked for me cuz every track/course is different, and when you have to make quick adjustments, this works.
 

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Typically on/off throttle rotation is a function of diff setup. Preload mostly. Usually you want it to straighten up on advancing throttle, and point in on trailing throttle. You can also play with the shock knobs (or what we called "the confusers"). I'd go stiffer on the rear rebound to try and get some rotation back.

That tire looks underinflated to me. Do you use a pyrometer to check tire temps?

AutoX is tricky as the tires are heating up fast. And not evenly. So the car really changes throughout the run.

If you feel like you're punishing one tire (and the pressure is right), you likely should soften that end.
 

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Having road raced with a locker before ... "no" ... actually "hell no".
 
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