[drummingrocks]

i remember a discussion on boss302 or 428cj where it seemed to be normal that the factory was far from perfect. some uphill and there were differences side to side. seems to me that an imperfect stripe would be more correct and a case of not "over restoring".

Probably so. Some things, I can let slip, but when it looks like the stripe was applied at 4:59 pm on a Friday afternoon after 4-5 beers, then there's a problem.

 

[MEADOWFERN]

from the research i had done, the ribs were painted.

were you the original owner of this factory 69?

I was the second owner on my first 69, and I know it was still original paint. Hey I bounced over to Concours Mustang Forum to see what the Jedi said about shakers. Here was a thread with a concours judge that truly knows his Mustangs...

Re: Shaker Hood Scoop Appearance (#1)

(1) What came stock - black or silver/aluminum?

The ribs were painted a dull silver

(2) What is it - paint or brushed metal?

Likely originally done with something like an ink roller

(3) Are the original scoops cast aluminum or magnesium? I've seen them referred to as both.

Never tested one

 

[drummingrocks]

I just restored my clock....work someplace with bright light and work over a tray so anything that gets away doesn't disappear onto the floor (lesson learned).

+1. I swapped clock lenses on my '69 last week, and even after being super careful, I managed to drop one of the tiny springs that keeps tension on the rod used to set the time. Thankfully, I found it in the floor, but if it had bounced or flown across the room, I don't know what I would've done!

 

[buckeyedemon]

I was the second owner on my first 69, and I know it was still original paint. Hey I bounced over to Concours Mustang Forum to see what the Jedi said about shakers. Here was a thread with a concours judge that truly knows his Mustangs...

Re: Shaker Hood Scoop Appearance (#1)

(1) What came stock - black or silver/aluminum?

The ribs were painted a dull silver

(2) What is it - paint or brushed metal?

Likely originally done with something like an ink roller

(3) Are the original scoops cast aluminum or magnesium? I've seen them referred to as both.

Never tested one

your posts are confusing me. first you say your shaker had exposed aluminum. then you said you know it was the original paint (which seems like you are saying the ribs were painted?), then you show a post of a judge saying they were painted silver.

i'm confused.

as someone else mentioned, that type of material seemed to be sensitive to something ( found several areas of heavy corrision on my parts). it would make sense to me that the ribs were painted in some fashion from the factory

 

[ceswert1]

I don't have real specific pictures but I will post what I have. I am sure Mustang Ranch will have a complete presentation on hand. Check out their web site for more specific info, www.mustangranch.com Located in Santa Clara, CA. By the way, I have a 71 Mach 429cjr project starting shortly. I am having all major steps photographed and catalouged. Would be happy to post when things get rolling.

 

[MEADOWFERN]

your posts are confusing me. first you say your shaker had exposed aluminum. then you said you know it was the original paint (which seems like you are saying the ribs were painted?), then you show a post of a judge saying they were painted silver.

i'm confused.


I always THOUGHT they were exposed aluminum, but apparently they are silver paint. Never studied one that close, but bottom line, they're supposed to be silver.

 

[Junior2561]

thank you guys for all your continued feedback.

I bought an Osburn Body manual for right now. I'll see what info is in there. I also joined the concours mustang forums just to see what i can absorb.

 

[kk1969boss9]

Junior, do yourself a BIG favor take the time and drive down to BOSS CARS in Gahanna, Ohio (east of Columbus) 926 Taylor Station Rd. Take a camera and note pad and talk to Rick Parker and his people. You will find the information on your car your looking for and more. You will not be sorry, but impressed.

 

[Copperace]

I'm glad you asked this question...I found out information I can use from the other suggestions. I was about to start painting my interior pieces using satin black wally world paint..may reconsider. I am not going for concourse but, daily driver. Still it would be nice to be semi-accurate if it is cheap enough. Although I love this car I am not in-love with this car....at least not yet. Yes, the trap door frame on my baby was hacked all to heck and it makes me wonder if I should even repair it...well, at this point way too many other things to do just to get her on the road again....good luck with your project. I am however, in love with this website...

 

[brunofxst]

I'll add a few:

1. Faded yellow instrument bezels. Have them rechromed, or at least get some silver touch up paint. The same follows for the instrument/gauge needles--paint them back their fluorescent orange color. After 40+ years, nearly all of them are at least a little faded. This is what you're going to be looking at 90% of the time when you're driving the car; why not fix it?

2. Non-original seat belts on an otherwise very nice interior restoration. It just irks me to see generic, one size fits all belts. 3-point belts are fine, but retrofitting aftermarket lap belts in place of original Ford belts just screams cheap to me.

3. So-called "Shaker" cars outfitted with a Torino shaker.

4. Cheap black plastic wiper blades attached to a car that never came with them new. This is especially obvious on a car that has stainless or chrome wiper arms.

5. Incorrect or poorly added options, especially things like window slats and spoilers. If you want to add it, fine, but don't just throw the stuff on the car without researching proper measurements, what kind of hardware it used originally, etc.

6. No sound deadener or seam sealer in the trunk. I see this one all the time. People spend hours making the trunk look great, only to leave the sound deadener or seam sealer off during the repaint. Quarters are supposed to have asbestos-based sound deadner on the portions visible in the trunk. In the seams and around the wheel wells, seam sealer was sprayed, and often not very well. Anything is better than nothing; at least make some effort!

7. People that have partial quarter patches installed, and leave the weld lines. I've even seen cars where the welds weren't ground down on the inside of the trunk. I thought the whole point of repairing a panel was to make it like new?

8. Poorly installed/sagging headliners. This seems to occur a lot with any year classic Mustang, probably because headliners are so aggravating to put in these cars. Very rarely do I see a car at local shows that doesn't have either a sail panel flopping down (especially on '69-70s), or inexcusable wrinkles in the headliner itself.

9. Hacked up package trays. If you want a modern stereo, that's fine. But don't blatantly hack up the package tray with obnoxious speakers! Even worse, the guys that cut the trap door to install speakers, that's pure blasphemy!

10. Blacked out hoods that either have the dimensions wrong, are too shiny, or use some other kind of paint that looks nothing like what Ford used originally.

11. Leaving the steering wheel alone while restoring the rest of the interior. How can people restore every last detail of their interior, only to top it off with a worn and cracked original steering wheel?

12. Getting the interior colors wrong. Either the paint is too shiny, fills in the texture, or is just flat out the wrong color. Lots of people fog everything one color on black interiors; few realize that certain pieces should be charcoal black as opposed to the regular interior black.

13. Mach 1 stripes that are anything but straight down the side of the car. I've seen them going uphill, downhill, and everything in between. If all else fails, break out the tape measure.

14. Incorrect exhaust tips. This is especially aggravating on the cars that have valence cutouts for the specific tips the car came with originally.

My pet peeve is a beautiful, all original restoration with off-brand RWL tires. (Futura from Pep-Boys, Kuhmo, etc.) After spending all that money, buy Firestone or Goodyear.

 

[Roddster]

The tire issue: I'm not sure about Firestone, but Goodyear has abandoned the 14" and 15" market for tire that fit out 60's cars. This is why you'll see Goodrich T/A's on many car. Plus, we like to drive them...and not just off the trailer.
Now, notice this thread was started in 2011. I wonder is the first poster got the car done, and won anything with it.

 

[Cobraguy1]

Some great stuff here, I'm with Roddster I'd love to see the progress of the first post

 

[CSX4766]

I just picked up a one owner S code 69 Mach 1. 63,000 original miles. I am working on getting the trunk in shape right now. need to replace the tank since it sat for 19 years. lots of seam sealer and insulation over the top of the tank. original spare still in the trunk.

note: the tire was a Goodyear polyglas 14"

 

[awhtx]

original spare still in the trunk.

Was the original spare tire for a Mach 1 a whitewall?

 

[Mach1 Driver]

Was the original spare tire for a Mach 1 a whitewall?

Yes, all five were the same. In my case they were Goodyear Custom Wide Tread Polyglas, and the original spare is still in the trunk. I never had a flat.

 

[Dave R.]

The shaker should be semi flat black and yes the top surface of the ribs are exposed silver aluminum. See the attached picture as demonstrated by the Hooter girls.

What shaker? I don't see a shaker. Dave R.