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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, it's been awhile since i posted last, but i've had a problem for awhile that i haven't had any time to fix! after ALL my work that some of y'all may recall last summer, i was driving home from work and started hearing an exhaust leak. checked the new donuts that were installed, and traced it to a small "hole" in the head gasket. the crazy thing, it's on the back left cylinder on the bottom side, so just air getting by.

i've already ordered new head, intake manifold and carb gaskets (valve covers are new) so i can have a tight top-end, but i wanted to replace my head, manifold and carb bolts/studs with new ones from ARP so i can get the appropriate torque values and not have any leaks upon reassembly!

i've had a hard time finding the bolt kits or part numbers and i was wondering if anyone could tell me what i need to buy and what's the best! i don't care about having chrome/polished bolts, i just want the strongest and easiest to install/remove. thanks!!
 

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Your leak probably came from the line up ring that sits in the deck of the block not being lined up properly. had this happen years ago to me. You're going to need a new one of those too.
Summit Racing has all the parts you need, just take your time looking them up and use their search function for locating parts on the left side of the page. And get some of the ARP bolt lube too. Also, their torque values are a little different from stock, so pay attention to ARP's instructions.
Almost forgot, get a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean out the threads. There is a difference between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your leak probably came from the line up ring that sits in the deck of the block not being lined up properly. had this happen years ago to me. You're going to need a new one of those too.
Summit Racing has all the parts you need, just take your time looking them up and use their search function for locating parts on the left side of the page. And get some of the ARP bolt lube too. Also, their torque values are a little different from stock, so pay attention to ARP's instructions.
Almost forgot, get a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean out the threads. There is a difference between the two.
Thanks Scott! I have some of the lube already, but good idea about the chaser!! Also, do you have a more detailed description of this line up ring, or will it be called that? Its a 289 w/ edelbrok performer 289 and 4 bbl carb.

Anyone happen to know the threads for everything??
 

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Here's the dowels:
HEAD TO BLOCK DOWELS, SB FORD, 289-351W, 351C, 351/400M, - Alex's Parts Sales

Google is your friend!!

I think the head bolts are 7/16-20, but could be 14 pitch. Not sure about intake bolts though. ARP's website will tell you with a little investigating.

EDIT: Wow, did a search on Summit's website for "Block Dowel" and got three pages of them! And only 1 item for small block Ford without having to purchase a complete freeze plug/dowel kit.


Here you go:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Cylinder-Head-Dowel-Pins/Make/FORD/?keyword=block+dowel

Oh, and don't use a power tool or air tool to run the thread cleaner in the holes. I had a guy doing this for me once and it broke off in the block. And did you know they make a special tool for getting out broket taps and thread chasers!?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's the dowels:
HEAD TO BLOCK DOWELS, SB FORD, 289-351W, 351C, 351/400M, - Alex's Parts Sales

Google is your friend!!

I think the head bolts are 7/16-20, but could be 14 pitch. Not sure about intake bolts though. ARP's website will tell you with a little investigating.

EDIT: Wow, did a search on Summit's website for "Block Dowel" and got three pages of them! And only 1 item for small block Ford without having to purchase a complete freeze plug/dowel kit.


Here you go:
FORD - Cylinder Head Dowel Pins - SummitRacing.com

Oh, and don't use a power tool or air tool to run the thread cleaner in the holes. I had a guy doing this for me once and it broke off in the block. And did you know they make a special tool for getting out broket taps and thread chasers!?
thanks scott!! i tired searching, but didn't think to use dowell... funny thing is, i just replaced the dowells on my '76 cb750's cylinder block, so i should of known what you were talking about! thanks again for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, so i found the parts numbers, i don't know why i couldn't find these earlier, i guess a brain fart! just in case anyone wants to know, here are some part numbers. again, it's for a 289 w/ stock heads and an edelbrock performer 289 manifold:

Head Studs:
Hex - 154-4001
12-Point - 154-4201

Head Bolts:
Hex - 154-3601
12-Point - 154-3701

Intake Manifold:
Hex - 154-2001
12-Point - 154-2101
Studs - 354-2103

Thanks for the help Scott!
 

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Might need some input from others here, but if you use studs, is there clearance to lift the head up over them, or down on them in this case, without hitting the shock tower?
But then again, you could just set the head in place and then insert the studs. They only get finger tightened anyway, and they have an allen head in them to use a small allen wrench to snug them down.
I'd just go with the head bolts you have listed.
 
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