[IndyFive-O]

Resurrecting an old thread, project was on hold for a while but now I am ready to place an order with MDL.

I have a list and talked with them today about a few things, one of my questions was that they put this on my order:
# MD-88-421-204-03 Quik Stik Shifter, Ford T-5/T-45, 1" Back

I asked about it and he said the T5 will be forward and slightly right in the stock hole in the tunnel, this shifter centers it front to back and, by bolting the shift lever to the left of the shifter, centers everything up so the boot lays correctly.

Anyone have any opinions on this? I don't want to spend the $255 if I don't have to.

 

[Feethurt]

I didn't buy the MDL shifter. The stock T5 shifter fit fine through my floor opening- a little forward but not a real issue. The reason you would want an aftermarket shifter is to get stops so you can shift hard without breaking forks. The MDL shifter, last I checked, does not have stops.

 

[IndyFive-O]

I didn't buy the MDL shifter. The stock T5 shifter fit fine through my floor opening- a little forward but not a real issue. The reason you would want an aftermarket shifter is to get stops so you can shift hard without breaking forks. The MDL shifter, last I checked, does not have stops.

What shift lever did you go with, the Hurst or original style?

 

[Feethurt]

I modified my original shift lever to bolt to the T5 shifter. It's pretty easy if you have a drill and angle grinder, well worth the hassle to save $100 or whatever crazy price shift levers go for.

 

[1ofAMillion+]

Without the positive stops or better shift ratio I'd say its not worth it. At least not at first.
Like with other parts of these cars, including cutting the drive shaft, there can be enough slight variations that one car needs it and the next doesn't. Some people need to trim the right edge of the shifter hole, I didn't.

 

[1ofAMillion+]

What shift lever did you go with, the Hurst or original style?

Don't confuse the shifter with just the shift handle. I read the best shifter for the money is the Pro5.0 and you can get different handles for it. I still use the shifter and handle that was on the T5 and although it stretches the OE'65 boot in 5th it works fine. If I get too slow in 5th the boot pulls it out of gear for me on occasion:laugh:
Watch out for the knock off fleabay and amazn shifters that are only ~$50-75. They will shed aluminium that will go into the guts of the trans.

 

[IndyFive-O]

Don't confuse the shifter with just the shift handle. I read the best shifter for the money is the Pro5.0 and you can get different handles for it. I still use the shifter and handle that was on the T5 and although it stretches the OE'65 boot in 5th it works fine. If I get too slow in 5th the boot pulls it out of gear for me on occasion:laugh:
Watch out for the knock off fleabay and amazn shifters that are only ~$50-75. They will shed aluminium that will go into the guts of the trans.

Yep, I get the difference between the handle and the shifter, I was curious if the Hurst style fit different than the original style shifter HANDLE.

I was laying under the car yesterday surveying the work to be done. I will have to disconnect my exhaust at the manifolds and then cut the exhaust right after the "H" pipe as it's all welded. I Googled around and saw Walker makes butt compression connectors that I can use to put it back together without having to take it somewhere to have it welded back up. Does anyone have experience with these type of connectors?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36534?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-walker-exhaust&gclid=Cj0KCQjw19DlBRCSARIsAOnfReikgvXdcUXYS0vLN40994s0h0JT_36Nu6-ea9H-I7kD74DWnP_K2HcaApBDEALw_wcB
Any other ideas on how to deal with the exhaust?

 

[katwalk]

Yep, I get the difference between the handle and the shifter, I was curious if the Hurst style fit different than the original style shifter HANDLE.

I was laying under the car yesterday surveying the work to be done. I will have to disconnect my exhaust at the manifolds and then cut the exhaust right after the "H" pipe as it's all welded. I Googled around and saw Walker makes butt compression connectors that I can use to put it back together without having to take it somewhere to have it welded back up. Does anyone have experience with these type of connectors?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36534?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-walker-exhaust&gclid=Cj0KCQjw19DlBRCSARIsAOnfReikgvXdcUXYS0vLN40994s0h0JT_36Nu6-ea9H-I7kD74DWnP_K2HcaApBDEALw_wcB
Any other ideas on how to deal with the exhaust?

I do. I used them before in a case where the exhaust was 1 piece from the headers to the tailpipe, so I cut the pipe and installed one of these. Very handy.

 

[IndyFive-O]

I do. I used them before in a case where the exhaust was 1 piece from the headers to the tailpipe, so I cut the pipe and installed one of these. Very handy.

Thanks for the feedback, did you use it as a permanent solution? Would you recommend them?

 

[1ofAMillion+]

I didnt mean to seem to talk down to you but if you haven't seen them you might not know how they can leggo together.0 You can also get some off-set joints for T5s that I guess will do what the MDL one is doing.

I've used couplings that use the u-bolt and saddle. They can be pretty much a permanent solution as many kits you can buy use only couplings. I bought a bunch of pieces from this place https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ID-to-2-ID-Universal-Exhaust-Pipe-to-Pipe-Coupling-Connector-Adapter-Coupler/161627277652?hash=item25a1bc8954:g:gBsAAOSw4GVYUFLe
There is a Permatex exhaust putty that you can use to help seal them. After it has been run a while it becomes such a hard cement that I couldn't even beat a joint apart.

 

[IndyFive-O]

I didnt mean to seem to talk down to you but if you haven't seen them you might not know how they can leggo together.0 You can also get some off-set joints for T5s that I guess will do what the MDL one is doing.


I've used couplings that use the u-bolt and saddle. They can be pretty much a permanent solution as many kits you can buy use only couplings. I bought a bunch of pieces from this place https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ID-to-2-ID-Universal-Exhaust-Pipe-to-Pipe-Coupling-Connector-Adapter-Coupler/161627277652?hash=item25a1bc8954:g:gBsAAOSw4GVYUFLe
There is a Permatex exhaust putty that you can use to help seal them. After it has been run a while it becomes such a hard cement that I couldn't even beat a joint apart.

All good. You are right though, I am not familiar with what my options might be to get around the offset.


Thanks for the tip on the sealer. Not sure I would want to use that, being able to take them apart would be a bonus.

 

[Nailbender]

Resurrecting an old thread, project was on hold for a while but now I am ready to place an order with MDL.

I have a list and talked with them today about a few things, one of my questions was that they put this on my order:
# MD-88-421-204-03 Quik Stik Shifter, Ford T-5/T-45, 1" Back

I asked about it and he said the T5 will be forward and slightly right in the stock hole in the tunnel, this shifter centers it front to back and, by bolting the shift lever to the left of the shifter, centers everything up so the boot lays correctly.

Anyone have any opinions on this? I don't want to spend the $255 if I don't have to.

I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.

 

[IndyFive-O]

I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.

Wow, thanks for the heads up about the shift lever, I wanted it to look fairly original but I dont want to deal with the crappy quality. Looks like I will change it to the Hurst lever and boot.

 

[Nailbender]

Looks like I will change it to the Hurst lever and boot.

Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.

 

[IndyFive-O]

Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.

I will report back.
The boot and bezel is super cheap, don't let that stop you.

 

[Huskinhano]

Or you could put a Toploader 4 speed in

 

[Nailbender]

Or you could put a Toploader 4 speed in

Yes Tom, we know.:grin2:

When I'm cruisin' in overdrive
Don't have to listen to no run of the mill talk jive

 

[IndyFive-O]

I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.

FYI....I just spoke to Paul at MDL and told him about my concerns with the 4spd lever lockout. He said he understands and asked if I wanted a 3 speed Hurst lever (It's round and no reverse lockout), which is perfect because I am removing a 3 speed Toploader. He said it will fit with my existing trim ring and boot - Perfect!
MDL Part # MD-320-2041

Order is placed, now I have to get to work getting it taken apart.

 

[Nailbender]

Thanks for the info! Curious to see how it works out for you.

 

[katwalk]

Thanks for the feedback, did you use it as a permanent solution? Would you recommend them?

I did and never had and issue with it. I think the key is to make sure the exhaust pipes fore and aft of the connection are mounted securely.

Farrell