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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Got everything apart and just working on cleaning stuff up and some small parts painting while I have it apart.
I had to loosen my drivers side exhaust manifold for clearance to get the H pipe down, so that was a tense few moments, hoping the manifold bolts came loose without drama which they did. So I thought I may as well see if the other side will come off just as easy and I can have them blasted and coated - so one thing leads to another.

And so it goes, I have to replace the rear seal now, it appears thats where my oil leak is. the back of the flywheel is mostly dry, so that makes me think it wasn't the flywheel bolts leaking.

Here is a pic of my old pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel.





My flywheel appears to be trashed, really pitted. This explains my bad chatter - along with the oil leak.
 

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Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.
I have the Hurst lever, boot and bezel in mine and I really like it. Admittedly I have nothing else to compare it to, but it shifts well and feels strong and certain. Plus I love th classic hotrod look of the white ball.
 

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When I did my MDL T5, I went with the MDL 1" back shifter. I also used the Ron Morris motor mounts and pushed it back a slight amount, avoiding cutting up my new floor.



The issue I had was with the bolt diameters. The stock style stick with the sharp lockouts had to be drilled to fit the larger bolts. Without a vise, I went to a local machine shop who did it for free.



This setup only lasted until I first drove it. The arm leans left, and with my new seat pads and my size, it hits my knee in second when I try to brake. I still need to shorten the brake push rod, but still not a good situation. Also, this arm attaches from the right side, which is ideal, but the advantage is lost with the left arm bend.



The other issue I had was the original style knob was too small. At my size, it was lost in the palm of my hand. Comparing it to my 3 speed ball, it is smaller. So I went with a larger from MDL, and went white this time. I also ordered the Lokar shifter which has similar geometry and is round to stick with my current boot, but it has no left bend. I also had smaller holes and needed drilling. It mounted from the left so I lost a half inch there. To make it all work with the recessed bolts, my machinist also trimmed the heads of the bolts to let them fit where the barrel head bolts were designed to go. Lots of work to deal with the MDL shifter using a different mounting bolt. In the end, I am much happier with this setup.



Once I shorten my brake pushrod to closer to stock, I think everything will be perfect.
 

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FYI....I just spoke to Paul at MDL and told him about my concerns with the 4spd lever lockout. He said he understands and asked if I wanted a 3 speed Hurst lever (It's round and no reverse lockout), which is perfect because I am removing a 3 speed Toploader. He said it will fit with my existing trim ring and boot - Perfect!
MDL Part # MD-320-2041

Order is placed, now I have to get to work getting it taken apart.
Can't say enough good things about Paul and MDL in general. There were a couple of things that were specific to our Frankenstein car that should not have happened but he worked through it for me and ultimately we needed to go to a hydraulic clutch--gave me a good discount too. I know I could of pieced it together a bit cheaper but I didn't want to take weeks searching for parts for our AOD to T5Z swap.
 

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Can't say enough good things about Paul and MDL in general. There were a couple of things that were specific to our Frankenstein car that should not have happened but he worked through it for me and ultimately we needed to go to a hydraulic clutch--gave me a good discount too. I know I could of pieced it together a bit cheaper but I didn't want to take weeks searching for parts for our AOD to T5Z swap.
If you have the time to scrounge around for the bits and pieces needed for a T5 swap you can certainly do it for a lot less than MDL. For the rest of us who can't do that be it geography or job situation, MDL can put together a one stop shopping experience within a few dollars + or - of Summit or Jegs. It was the first "conversion" I've ever done, C4 to T5z, that involved no trips to the hardware store.
 

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If you have the time to scrounge around for the bits and pieces needed for a T5 swap you can certainly do it for a lot less than MDL. For the rest of us who can't do that be it geography or job situation, MDL can put together a one stop shopping experience within a few dollars + or - of Summit or Jegs. It was the first "conversion" I've ever done, C4 to T5z, that involved no trips to the hardware store.
Yep, very complete kit from MDL. The initial quote had a trans and even fluid. I knew I could buy fluid locally cheaper and a T5Z from Jegs with free shipping so that was what I did to save more. for me, the customer support after the sale was well worth the extra cost and not having to search for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I've been busy working on the car here and there, we got a new puppy in the house so he is taking up all my free time.
While I had everything apart I replaced the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, coated the exhaust manifolds, and got the bell housing cleaned up.

Anyway, should be putting in the new T5 tomorrow and was wondering what the rule of thumb is to determine if my driveshaft is too long or not. Also will have to look up how to replace the yoke with the new one I got from MDL, it's a few inched shorter than my existing one - not sure why, but it is.
 

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Anyway, should be putting in the new T5 tomorrow and was wondering what the rule of thumb is to determine if my driveshaft is too long or not. Also will have to look up how to replace the yoke with the new one I got from MDL, it's a few inched shorter than my existing one - not sure why, but it is.
My new yoke from MDL was also much shorter? I think the rule of thumb is the yoke 1" out from full compression and I think that's what the MDL directions say. I took that to mean 1" out from the yoke contacting the tail shaft rubber seal so I had my driveshaft shortened 1/2". I probably didn't need to do that. As the rear axle moves up and down I don't think the yoke moves in or out a 1/4" at the trans.

Don't know enough to give you any advice, just my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
My new yoke from MDL was also much shorter? I think the rule of thumb is the yoke 1" out from full compression and I think that's what the MDL directions say. I took that to mean 1" out from the yoke contacting the tail shaft rubber seal so I had my driveshaft shortened 1/2". I probably didn't need to do that. As the rear axle moves up and down I don't think the yoke moves in or out a 1/4" at the trans.

Don't know enough to give you any advice, just my experience.
I didn't get any directions from MDL.
That's easy enough though, is that 1" with the rear wheels at ride height or hanging?
 

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Also will have to look up how to replace the yoke with the new one I got from MDL, it's a few inched shorter than my existing one - not sure why, but it is.

As I was searching through some various online articles about the T5 swap I ran across one that said DO NOT use a "long" slip yoke with a T5. Apparently the long slip yoke will starve the tailshaft bushing for lubrication. My original slip yoke was about 7.5" long from the center of the u-joint to the end of the hollow tube. The T5 slip yoke is only 6" long. The first 2" of the long slip yoke does not have any splines in it. I cut 1.5" off of my long slip yoke so now only the first 1/2" has no splines.
Is your new slip yoke 6" long from the center of the u-joint? How much of the ID does not have splines?
 

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I didn't get any directions from MDL.
That's easy enough though, is that 1" with the rear wheels at ride height or hanging?
I just went through all my several sets of individual component directions from MDL and couldn't find the "general" directions. I'm surprised you didn't get any directions! I'd give Paul a call tomorrow to see what he recommends. I think it's 1" out at ride height. But I'm not sure if it's 1" smashing the tail shaft rubber or 1" from the rubber? I had the rev limiter set at 6300 at the autocross yesterday and am still alive with my legs and gentleman parts still intact so there must be a decent fudge factor involved!
 

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That's easy enough though, is that 1" with the rear wheels at ride height or hanging?

With the wheels at ride height.
As the rear axle moves up or down from normal ride height the driveshaft actually pulls away from the transmission. I only have 1/2" of clearance between my yoke and the tailshaft and the yoke never "bottoms out" against the tailshaft.
And beware- the tailshaft extends out beyond the seal. If you push the yoke into the transmission until the ID bottoms out against the tailshaft there will still be a gap between the edge of the seal and the end of the yoke on the OD. So if you shove the yoke all the way into the transmission and measure the gap on the OD you still need to pull the yoke out 1/2" additional.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Is your new slip yoke 6" long from the center of the u-joint? How much of the ID does not have splines?
Yep, just went out and measured it at 6" and it has splines all the way to the end.

Good info on why it needs to be shorter, thanks.
 

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With the wheels at ride height.
As the rear axle moves up or down from normal ride height the driveshaft actually pulls away from the transmission. I only have 1/2" of clearance between my yoke and the tailshaft and the yoke never "bottoms out" against the tailshaft.
And beware- the tailshaft extends out beyond the seal. If you push the yoke into the transmission until the ID bottoms out against the tailshaft there will still be a gap between the edge of the seal and the end of the yoke on the OD. So if you shove the yoke all the way into the transmission and measure the gap on the OD you still need to pull the yoke out 1/2" additional.
So I'm assuming you didn't need to have your driveshaft shortened?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thank you guys, all good info.
I talked to Paul this morning and questioned why the flywheel bolt kit I got from them doesn't have any mechanical locking. He said just put loctight blue or thread sealer and torque to spec - good to go. Still makes me nervous though.

I hope I don't have to have the driveshaft shortened, just another delay.
 

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Thank you guys, all good info.
I talked to Paul this morning and questioned why the flywheel bolt kit I got from them doesn't have any mechanical locking. He said just put loctight blue or thread sealer and torque to spec - good to go. Still makes me nervous though.
Yea, I got those bolts with my kit but used ARP bolts instead as I already had them. You need to put thread sealant on the bolts and loc-tight. Nobody on this planet has ever given me a good explanation on how to do both so I put the white thread sealant on the end of the bolts and blue Loc-tight just after. It worked.
 

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I had shortened the driveshaft 1" when I installed the T5 so that it fit with my 9" rear end. After I installed the Explorer 8.8" the 1" gap had shrunk to 1/2"!
Ha! So your situation was not typical. I don't think I needed to shorten mine. It seems to run 50/50 from what I have read.
 
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