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My driveshaft needed to be shortened, but I opted to simply have a new one built. Local driveline shop built one for $200. I figured if I ever go back to the 4 spd, I will have my old driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Well I have everything together and I did have to have to driveshaft shortened.

Everything is great except now i have a a minor vibration as I rev the engine, in neutral, clutch in or out, or in gear with the clutch in. I am suspecting the new flywheel and or clutch as I noticed when putting it all together that the flywheel center hole was SLIGHTLY larger than the crank center and didn't fit as snug as the one I took off.

Calling Paul at MDL Monday, thats where I bought the flywheel and clutch.
 

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Glad you got it back together. Bummer about the vibration!
 

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Well I have everything together and I did have to have to driveshaft shortened.

Everything is great except now i have a a minor vibration as I rev the engine, in neutral, clutch in or out, or in gear with the clutch in. I am suspecting the new flywheel and or clutch as I noticed when putting it all together that the flywheel center hole was SLIGHTLY larger than the crank center and didn't fit as snug as the one I took off.

Calling Paul at MDL Monday, thats where I bought the flywheel and clutch.
When I put my GT40P in I bought a new PRW billet flywheel and I was experiencing what I perceived as a slight vibration above 2k. I took the flywheel to a machine shop along with the flexplate that came with my motor. Keep in mind at the factory the balance is set with the flexplate or flywheel in the end. The shop said as is my PRW flywheel was very good but it was off 10 grams compared to the flexplate. It doesn’t mean there was a issue with the flywheel it simply meant it was off to the final balance of the engine which could be off . Anyway the shop said that the 10 grams wasn’t that much and really shouldn’t be noticeable and not a big deal but they matched it. That seemed to do the trick in my case. To me it seems smoother
 

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Discussion Starter #66
When I put my GT40P in I bought a new PRW billet flywheel and I was experiencing what I perceived as a slight vibration above 2k. I took the flywheel to a machine shop along with the flexplate that came with my motor. Keep in mind at the factory the balance is set with the flexplate or flywheel in the end. The shop said as is my PRW flywheel was very good but it was off 10 grams compared to the flexplate. It doesn’t mean there was a issue with the flywheel it simply meant it was off to the final balance of the engine which could be off . Anyway the shop said that the 10 grams wasn’t that much and really shouldn’t be noticeable and not a big deal but they matched it. That seemed to do the trick in my case. To me it seems smoother
Thanks for the advice, I was googling around for a shop to do this in the Indy area and have a couple to call monday.
I was also going to talk to Paul at MDL about the loose fit of the flywheel to the crank.

I wouldn't say it's a bad vibration but I can feel it for sure, it wasn't there before.
 

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Thanks for the advice, I was googling around for a shop to do this in the Indy area and have a couple to call monday.
I was also going to talk to Paul at MDL about the loose fit of the flywheel to the crank.

I wouldn't say it's a bad vibration but I can feel it for sure, it wasn't there before.
I had a bit of a hard time finding a shop that could just do the flywheel. All of the shops told me they needed the crank, rods and pistons to balance the flywheel. This shop could measure just the flex plate then match the flywheel to the flexplate.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I had a bit of a hard time finding a shop that could just do the flywheel. All of the shops told me they needed the crank, rods and pistons to balance the flywheel. This shop could measure just the flex plate then match the flywheel to the flexplate.
OK, good to know. I saved the old flywheel - never throw anything away until the project is finished right?:grin2:
 

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I bought an aluminum Fadanza flywheel that was supposed to be a neutral balance, took it to a race engine shop and they discovered it was out by several grams. They got it to within a gram I think. Even though a flywheel is supposed to be "balanced" when you get it, it's always a good idea to insure it is in fact balanced.
 

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Question ? the T 5 was made form what 85 to 97 ? what year do you guys suggest that i get ?

I also have a 3 spd hooked to a 289.

So much great info here.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Question ? the T 5 was made form what 85 to 97 ? what year do you guys suggest that i get ?

I also have a 3 spd hooked to a 289.

So much great info here.

Thanks,

Steve
this is where I started, I favor the Fox T-5 93 being ideal. then the CPC adapter plate and crossmember with an upgraded Z bar linkage using rod ends
this is the kit I used https://calponycars.com/transmssion/880-tra-656-532.html
And this is the pic I used to steal,,,er borrowed to make my own upgraded Z bar
 

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Discussion Starter #72
As of last night I have it all back together, vibration is solved.

After speaking with MDL we developed a plan to try and isolate the cause of the vibration that wasn't there before this project, by trying one thing at a time, first only the flywheel- no vibration, then add the pressure plate....BINGO, vibration. I explained to MDL that I was concerned about the Mr. Gasket bolt kit they sent me for the pressure plate. After taking detailed measurements on the bolt shoulder, the thickness of the pressure plate, and thickness on the lock washer, I determined I wasn't getting any bolt shoulder into the flywheel to register the pressure plate. So I asked them to send me new ARP bolts for the pressure plate and the flywheel (I had the flywheel off a couple times during the troubleshooting and felt better with fresh bolts).
The ARP pressure plate bolts had a deeper shoulder on them and, after measuring everything up, they would give me a 2.25mm penetration into the flywheel. The Mr. Gasket bolts had NO shoulder penetration into the flywheel. Also, the new ARP flywheel bolt shoulders fit into the holes in the flywheel better than the Mr. Gaskets.

I put it all together and the vibration was gone, nice and smooth!

So the lesson here is pay attention to the bolts you are using to putting something like this together, it made all the difference in this case. MDL said they would look into the Mr. Gasket PP set and possibly not offer them any more. I want to give a big thumbs up to Paul and Bruce at MDL, they were both very knowledgeable but listened to me when I had a concern. In the end they made everything right and were always good to return my call or ship something out.

I only put about 10 miles on it last night after finishing installing the new TruTrac 3:55's all seems good. Matter of fact, the vibration I have been chasing (different then the above issue) may have been an old worn out differential as the driveline vibration seems to be gone now.
 

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That can be very annoying chasing a vibration. I had one in my car after putting my GT40P in. I used a new billet flywheel. This past winter I pulled it out and sent it to a machine shop. The shop said as is the balance on the flywheel was very good. It wasn’t so much that it was off as supplied but it was 10 grams different from the flexplate that was on the motor which would be fine balanced at the factory. The shop said 10 grams on a 90* V8 plane crank would probably not be noticeable. Anyway it seems to have done the trick.

The other possibility is that my pressure plate was slightly off and putting it back together in a different spot could have done it as well. I used ARP flywheel and PP bolts too.
 
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