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Hi, Everyone...
Would like some opinions from experienced folks
I'm about to final weld my newly added passenger side torque box on my 67'.
Bought the Dynacorn 2 piece box. Really like it and have it fitted nicely.
All future weld spots look nice and tight...about to fire up welder for permanent install...and I see the attached pic.
I believe it came from the 'how to' on CJ's website. It appears the installer is making sure the box is 'level'...
Has anyone else done this? I have my box fitted nicely with tight seams and the mating flanges look clean and even.
Put a torpedo level on mine in this spot...and it's not level.
Is this standard protocol or anal retentive unnecessary-ness???
 

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I wouldn’t worry about it being level more that it fits. I’m glad you used the 2 piece. Last year I bought the Spectra heavy gauge version. No complaints about Spectra it’s just that the 1 piece are more designed for new work not adding. I had to cut them apart, refits the sides as I didn’t want to make any cuts in my very solid floors. I used weld through primer. I would not use it again. I felt it effected the welding making it harder. When I was done I used 3M cavity wax with a wand kit to get inside the boxes for rust protection. Check my thread started posts if interested.

Where your angle finder is, at some point gussets were available to add more support. When I was done with my car it did feel tighter but more what I noticed was what I didn’t notice. The unibody seemed to be quieter. I don’t hear creaks and groans and my car was a very solid car to start with.
 

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As long as your joints and mating surfaces are good you are golden. Not sure what that angle would mean anyway. Not sure why that part of the torque box would need to be level either and really who knows if the car in the pic was even level. I would not worry about that angle.
 

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I bought the Spectra 1 piece units but drilled the spot welds out and separated the 2 pieces. Like Tom said about coatings behind panels, they can often cause more troubles than what they are worth. Personally I also find the primers just boil up and contaminate the welds. I just finished doing and inner and outer cowl on a friend's 66 and will be doing his front torque boxes next. If you want to see some more pics check out my build thread. On my car the drivers side just needed a little grinding on the edges to make them fit while the passenger side required a lot more work. I also added the gussets.
 

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I did the same install as Caper50. Took the one piece boxes apart. I did run a tape line across the edges inside to cover the spotweld areas then etch primed and undercoated them prior to installation. The tape line ensured no weld contamination. I did however use the Proform weld through primer under that taped area with no issues.

And as above i agree that the 'level' aspect of the installation depends on whether the car is level or not..most of the time it's better to fit it up flush with the lip on the rocker area rather than worry about 'level'.

On the 70 i did install the small reinforcement brackets under the bottom and they tie them in nicely. https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-24190620-65-70-mustang-dynacorn-torque-box-gusset-pair.html?ref=brand:99237

...John
 

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I bought the Spectra 1 piece units but drilled the spot welds out and separated the 2 pieces. Like Tom said about coatings behind panels, they can often cause more troubles than what they are worth. Personally I also find the primers just boil up and contaminate the welds. I just finished doing and inner and outer cowl on a friend's 66 and will be doing his front torque boxes next. If you want to see some more pics check out my build thread. On my car the drivers side just needed a little grinding on the edges to make them fit while the passenger side required a lot more work. I also added the gussets.


Wow - Can I be your new friend?


lol
 

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Torque Boxes

Lot's of great feedback. I would test fit the upper piece first, drill, then test fit the 2nd piece, drill, and then plug weld each piece individually. Since the upper side lip of the upper torque box would typically extend upward through the firewall, I instead inverted it so as to not cut the floor. Some people cut the lip entirely. Take your time. Measure thrice. Cut and weld once. I used Eastwood weld through etching primer and also coated the interior of the torque boxes with rubberized undercoating. Last, for additional strength, it may be a good idea to stitch weld the pieces in select areas along the frame rail, floor support, and rocker panel. Attached are photographs from my installation. I'm no pro, but it is not difficult as long as your car's dimension and sheet metal is in good condition. Best of luck!











 

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On a side note. Be safe wear eye protection and make sure nothing is in your welding helmet. During my install I wore a full face shield while using the grinder. At some point a metal splinter went into my welding helmet and when I flipped my helmet to weld underneath a metal splinter landed in my eye. Let’s say it was not fun. I had to go to the opthomolist to have it removed. He commented on what a good patient I was. I told him I wasn’t about to make any sudden movements with him holding a knife against my eye!
 

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Oh these are the extra gussets I added. I have to give credit to 2bd66 about these

Added some gussets myself, not as large but very heavy gauge steel.
 

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