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+1 on the Caltacs. I have them on my 70 and went with the low profile 1 hole version for the additional clearance on the bumpy roads here.

 

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Just an FYI, I chased wheel hop for a while till someone suggested I check the toe on my rear wheels... turns out axle was not true and I had 1/8" toe out...

With the new housing and maier springs the car doesn't hop and launches really nice.

Goodluck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just an FYI, I chased wheel hop for a while till someone suggested I check the toe on my rear wheels... turns out axle was not true and I had 1/8" toe out...

With the new housing and maier springs the car doesn't hop and launches really nice.

Goodluck!
I'll have to get that checked out! Thanks. And some of my friends watched me launch it and they said it looked like the wheel was jumping front and back more than up and down..
 

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If you dont want to go all the way to Cal-Tracs I would suggest the shelby style under-ride traction bars. Just make sure to get good quality ones. My first set were bogus and my 408w turned them into bananas.

You can see them in the pics below.



 

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My issue with Shelby bars isn't in reduction of wheel hop because I do think they helped that substantially. They may help in brake pinion dive as was the theory but didn't drive that car hard before installation.

What I don't like is that the length isn't exactly the same as the leaf spring and increased the for lack of a better word "jitteryness" of the rear end do to bind. Made it almost feel like a light truck with overloads. Short of it, I ran them but was less pleased with around town comfort. It was horsepower limited to a 1.6 short time, but it did hook.
 

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I'll have to get that checked out! Thanks. And some of my friends watched me launch it and they said it looked like the wheel was jumping front and back more than up and down..

When you launch, the pinion gear is trying to 'climb' the ring gear forcing the pinion upward. This twisting action (as seen looking lengthwise down the rear end housing) forces the springs to 'wrap up' and form an s shape before releasing their stored energy abruptly and cause your hop and again wrapping up starting a vicious cycle. When the springs are wrapping up they are effectively shortening their overall length and could be perceived as the tires moving forward.

All the traction aids listed are designed to mitigate the upward pinion motion upon launch. Many ways to do this. Traction bars are one way but pinion snubbers and forward biased leaf springs are another. As stated the old shelby style under riders also control pinion dive during hard braking but have a different roll center than the leaf springs causing some bind if the bushings aren't compliant enough.

I probably didn't help you with your decision but it's nice to know 'why' these things work.
 

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I use Competition Engineering Slide a Link traction bars. Very nice pieces with quality hardware. And they work great. Very similar to Caltracs. But these have a bushing in the middle to help absorb some of the harshness when driving around.

 

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There is also the Underride Spring Rods from Cobra Automotive.

Rear Suspension

I might be adding the rods to my Traction Master. I don't make a ton of HP but the Traction masters seem to help with braking.
 

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I thought the same thing, but my car will wheel hop, and my springs are new.
I will be getting cal tracs, they just work.
New is not always the same as good, I have zero wheel hop with my 67, four speed and m/t ET street 275/50/15's .
I run 5 leaf HD springs.
 

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i have new stock spec rear leafs (HD for the 69 mach 1) and caltrac's and it still wheelhops on the street.

In my opinion the stock spec springs (even 'HD) are pretty dismal in controlling wrap up. Add horsepower and sticky tires to the equation and the problem gets exponentially worse. Switching to a forward biased spring with urethane bushings can only help.
Getting stock replacement springs for a 50 yr old car that was designed to move people economically and then going to the track with them seems like a recipe for disappointment in my eyes.
If you look at a maier racing spring you will see how the leaves are forward biased to help control wrap up. The factory springs more closely resemble something off a wooden buggy.
I'll add to the list of traction aids Walt Hane of evergreen racing. They have overriders similar to the 65 Shelby's but have a damper to adjust for roll center to match the spring as it shifts through the springs' natural motion.
 
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