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Discussion Starter #1
I ran across this cool water pump from StewartWarner

It's computer controlled and is plumbed into your radiator hose. It was designed for racing applications, and is universal. There might be some of us looking for an alternate cooling solution. I'm not quite sure what you'd do with the existing pump. Maybe remove the innards, plug where the shaft goes, and use it to direct coolant thru the L/R side of the block? For those of us running an electric fan and a thick radiator in need of extra space, this might be a solution, in that you could completely do away with the water pump pulley AND shaft...

http://www.emp-corp.com/Images/Key_Products/_key_computer_controller_pump.gif
 
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Nifty, but at $404.70 you can buy a Griffen radiator, electric fan and high performance water pump.
 

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Want a quick and dirty electric pump?

http://www.grainger.com/images/products/4p062.jpg

Here's the Sherwood marine pump I use in the race car....I could have an extra one for emergencies (I don't), along with a shaft seal kit, and the price is still roughly 1/2 of one of those race pumps...I put about 300 passes on the car with this pump before putting it in the shop and the pump still works like new and doesn't leak whenever I fire the engine.

Definitely not computer controlled nor as pretty but it does work quite nicely for me..

Hey, you can tell 'em you're using a bilge pump...hehehe

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can't quite see in your photos, how did you plumb it to the timing cover? Did you gut a stock pump and use it as a splitter?

With a 180deg max on that Sherwood pump, it wouldn't last long on the street. But for intermittent use, it's probably ok.

I'll have to thumb thru my Grainger, MSC, McMasterCarr, etc catalogs for inspiration...
 

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I have the pump mounted on the engine plate at passenger side front (look just immediately ahead of the top spring mount on the strut)...the inlet is pointing down. Because of the puller fan and everything being set back in the car, I had to make a plate for the timing cover and make a tubing manifold which sweeps downward. The design of the manifold split helps equalize flow.

Temperatures can be a problem, more for the motor than for the elastomers, which both are the reason for the 180 F temp rating. I replaced the elastomers with Viton. The engine has gone to 210-220 on hot days in the lights with no adverse effects. Also, the pump is mounted in such a way that it receives large quantities of air from the puller fan and, because there are no fender aprons, the engine area is quite open...both of which help to cool the motor. Also, remember that the pump is receiving cooled water from the bottom radiator tank, which is not the temperature of that which passes the temp guage sensor in the intake manifold.

I'd likely cool the motor with a duct if in a street car...

Not for everyone but just wanted to share how some of we poor boys manage to build competitive cars..*G*
 
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