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If you're not going to get roller rockers, I would just go with a stock replacement instead of spending more on the poly-bushing ones you have listed. I would also hold off on upgrading your shocks. Remember, as @cougar70 pointed out, everything that you are doing is first-and-foremost a band-aid for a very messed up shock tower; I would put an absolute hold on any upgrades that are not necessary for the car to be aligned until you get that fixed.

Ken
 

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I tried responding to your message but it says it is closed for further responses. But to answer it:
I was thinking 100 plus shipping for the set. They are Edelbrock IAS shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Ordered SorT parts today to get this moving. Credit cards do wonders.

Once parts come in and car goes to shop to try to weld crack, will update with pics and info.

Waiting on shocks for the moment but I keep leaning toward thd konis, adjustable which are basically the sane price as bilsteins. I have bilsteins on my 67 and like them, but it is a stiffer ride. Like the adjustability of konis. So will save and try to find a sale some day.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
So I guess the question is will i need the adjustables. I also saw this set, but not sure if they would be too stiff. Agsin this will be for wife to drive and enjoy and she is a leisure driver.

Would these be a better option? What is the softness of these? I read about them but still dont know. Reviews didnt have comparisons.

 

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WOw, what a ride this thread has been. I have the konis and they are fine but after speaking with many of the experts available to us Opentracker, Mike Meier... the Bilsteins are a newer technology and a better choice since the Konis are $500 anyway.That said, I love the red tops in the engine compartment for an old school look. everyone knows Koni red! If you purchase from any of the vendors mentioned in this thread, just set them as they tell you and forget. Search Bilsteins on this site and you will hear raves. Go cheap on anything else but shocks are worth the investment! Personally, I would cancel the A arms and go stock shimming if necessary to get there before I would go cheap on shocks.

Regardless of how you get to your castor, the upper control arms are still going to put the wheel in the same place which you are unhappy with. Your car needs a days worth of aligning the fenders, hood and possibly doors. its all wonked, align fenders and hood to cowl then fit the doors to even the space front and back and align the lines. It will make the car look 100% better to you and anyone knowledgeable about old cars and you won't be chasing your tail trying to make look right

All of this said, your car's bucket list requires new suspension and steering. Looking at everything down below, its all old, worn and likely in need of replacement, not to mention incorrect parts. Personally I would go ahead and do the steering components also, idler arm, tie rod end links etc. Its all pretty cheap sub $200 and should be done before alignment. Replace the rubber on the strut arms and use RUBBER no fancy poly. Get the Roller spring perches mentioned, makes a great difference! You're almost there, don't stop - get it all right...

Finally, if you liked your ride height and you do the Shelby drop either by drilling or special A arms, you may be stuck replacing springs to get the height back up.

Don't worry, your car needs all this stuff, do it now and your done.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I like all of your ideas, and I intend to do all that body work and alignment and can redo steering too, but as mentioned before right now it sits. Unused. Not enjoyed.

I want my wife to emjoy snd drive t a bot before we take mnths to get stuff right. Also, I want to do it all the right way, and have all the body work and prep work done at once. One time. Not in pieces and here and there.

Right now i want to get it useable for the next year or two then I will focus on all the rest.

I agree with it all tho.
 

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Unpopular opinion: I don't think that that roller perches do give you $200 of improvement. If you have a welder and a vise, I would buy the kit from Opentracker (assuming they still sell it as a kit), and make them yourself to get them for less if you want them.

Just my two cents.

Ken
 
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