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Discussion Starter #1
What are some of you using for a battery tray when relocating the battery to the trunk? I wanted one that looks like it was supposed to be there and no aluminum style.
 

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Yep. Better put it into a battery box that is vented to outside the trunk, or you will eventually get acid fume issues.
 

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I modified a regular 68 battery tray for my set up. No need for a battrey box with an AGM Optima for a street driven car.
I made a billet clamp but if you wish a stock clamp will work.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I modified a regular 68 battery tray for my set up. No need for a battrey box with an AGM Optima for a street driven car.
I made a billet clamp but if you wish a stock clamp will work.
Looks like what I’m look for thanks. See you also have the starter sol back there also. Good move..
So lets see what you did with the spare tire..
 

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Boss 429's have the battery in the trunk from the factory. See if you can find a reproduction boss 429 mount. A little internet Boss 429 research will let you see exactly how Ford would have done it on your car.

B
 

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You got my interest so I did some research

Also, all other hardware stays under the hood, historically the solenoid is not relocated to the trunk. If you don't find reproduction cables, then welding cables can also work to connect the battery (in the trunk) to the solenoid (under the hood).

As far as acid fumes-- I have never heard of B 429's having problems, but unless you are going period correct I would use a dry cell.

B
 

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The Boss 302 also had it's battery in the trunk. For my 70 restomod, a Boss 302 tribute, I am using a standard front mount battery bracket I have modified for trunk mounting. I will add a battery box and POS wire circuit protection as well. I owned a Factory Five Cobra prior to the Mustang with the battery trunk mounted. While you can mount a lead acid battery in the trunk and vent gases from a battery box to the outside, it is better to simply use a AGM style battery and not worry about any potential outgassing.
 

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I too have an AGM battery.
20200321_122612.png
 

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I want to relocate the battery to the trunk in my 67.

I also want a later mini-starter.

That means that the starter cable will have constant power from the battery to the starter all the time.

Is there any way around that?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The Boss 302 also had it's battery in the trunk. For my 70 restomod, a Boss 302 tribute, I am using a standard front mount battery bracket I have modified for trunk mounting. I will add a battery box and POS wire circuit protection as well. I owned a Factory Five Cobra prior to the Mustang with the battery trunk mounted. While you can mount a lead acid battery in the trunk and vent gases from a battery box to the outside, it is better to simply use a AGM style battery and not worry about any potential outgassing.
Boss 302’s never had a Factory trunk mounted battery.. I had 2 of them and still own a Boss 429..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You got my interest so I did some research

Also, all other hardware stays under the hood, historically the solenoid is not relocated to the trunk. If you don't find reproduction cables, then welding cables can also work to connect the battery (in the trunk) to the solenoid (under the hood).

As far as acid fumes-- I have never heard of B 429's having problems, but unless you are going period correct I would use a dry cell.

B
No Battery fumes inn the trunk on Boss 429’s cause they have a vented battery caps like this. Dry cell it will be for sure...Also Boss 429’s had a 29 series battery..
747685
 

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Galaxy Battery tray will give you that nostalgic look. Go down to a welding supply store to get the cable, at least that is what I dad 40 years ago. You will need to increase the size of the cable because of the voltage loss from the length. With high current you have a large drop in voltage. Find out how many amps your engine takes to crank and the welding shop should be able to choose the cable size you will need. You can also look up an electrical chart for the size of cable you will need for the length of cable you are running. Use a good rubber grommet where the positive cable goes through the floor.

If you bolt your ground cable to the truck floor you will also need a heavy ground cable from the engine block to the body.

If your going to race it you need to check on what is a legal location and type of tray.
747683
 

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I want to relocate the battery to the trunk in my 67.

I also want a later mini-starter.

That means that the starter cable will have constant power from the battery to the starter all the time.

Is there any way around that?
I've never done it but this is what I'm thinking. The old GM starters had the battery cable hot all the time at the starter. The rest of the wires that powered the car were also hooked to that terminal. On your Mustang those other 12V wires are bolted to the battery side of your starter solenoid.

Run the cable from the positive terminal in the trunk to the starter. From that same positive terminal on the starter run a cable up to the battery side of the original starter solenoid. You might even be able to use th eold starter cable. Just move it over to the battery side of the original solenoid and hook the other end of the cable to the new starter's terminal. Now everything works except you do not have a wire from the starter switch to activate the new solenoid that is now down on the mini starter. And you do not have a 12V volt booster wire to the positive side of the coil.

Remove your "S" and "I" terminals from the original starter solenoid. The only thing left hooked to the original solenoid would be on the battery side of it. That means you will need to run a new starter "S" wire from the starter switch or extend the one that was on the original solenoid down to the new starter solenoid. Now it cranks

The "I" wire boost's your coil's voltage to full battery voltage during cranking for easier starts until the solenoid releases. If your new mini starter has an "I" terminal you could run a wire from that terminal and connect it to the "I" wire you removed from the old solenoid or you could just run it from the cranking terminal on the starter switch to the positive terminal of the coil.

The GM starters had a Battery cable, and a small "I" and "S" terminal on them. The problem with all those wires down there is they got cooked from the heat and it was common to have a bad connection where the positive cable bolted to it. Those starter went out more than the Ford starters. The little mini gear reduction starters are pretty reliable, we had them on the Dodges.

One time I tried using a factory solenoid to control a different style starter, a replacement starter like a gear reduction one with the built on solenoid. So the factory solenoid was turning on the solenoid on the starter. That did not work. It would start but then the starter would not stop cranking. I was told it needed a diode between the two solenoids.
 

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I never had any problems with fumes from the battery. I had it in the trunk of my Mustang and that was my daily driver.

I was more concered about battery acid corroding the trunk's floor. Don't overfill your batteries. Do not hammer on your battery posts , be gentle with them. It breaks the seal between the case and the post and you get leaks there. Use the acid washers under the cables. They make battery liner trays to catch the acid and they make a acid neutralizing mat you can put in the tray.
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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What are some of you using for a battery tray when relocating the battery to the trunk? I wanted one that looks like it was supposed to be there and no aluminum style.
What are some of you using for a battery tray when relocating the battery to the trunk? I wanted one that looks like it was supposed to be there and no aluminum style.
I used the one out of fox donar, worked great
 

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This is what we did with my 67 vert. Will have an Optima in it so no vent. Will be having a trunk interior custom built for audio and it will cover the battery
747705

747706
 

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I modified an original style base and used the standard clamp. To avoid having a constant 12v through the car all the time, I put the solenoid in the trunk as well.
 

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I want to relocate the battery to the trunk in my 67.

I also want a later mini-starter.

That means that the starter cable will have constant power from the battery to the starter all the time.

Is there any way around that?
This drawing will allow the starter cable to be hot only when in start. The solenoid will need to be moved to the rear, and the battery start cable needs to be a 1 or 2 gauge welding cable. The welding cable is much more flexible and easier to work with than automotive battery cable. I also recommend a HD relay, Amazon has a Bosch type relay rated at 75 amps that I have used in this application. It looks different than the typical cube type relay but functions the same way. Amazon.com: Bosch Automotive 0332002168 Pins, 12 V, 75 A, Normal Open Power Relays: Automotive
 

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A 5 series BMW has a really nice battery cable, but the PAP cuts the terminals off, then wants $44 for the cable.
 
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