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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to do this to my '70 coupe. Trying to keep as much wight in the back as possible. The Traction-Lock gets really slipery sometimes. LOL

Note to self: Keep Mustang gas tank full so I can have traction to get up my hill
 

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It's pretty straightforward - run the cable as follows:

Battery on passenger side trunk shelf
Cable over wheel housing into quarter window area
Quarter window area into rocker panel channel (under carpet sill)
Rocker channel into passenger kick panel area
Front of kick panel over to upper firewall
Drill hole large enough for a plastic right-angle conduit fitting in a good location on the firewall and route the battery cable through it.
Route along inner apron, around shock tower to solenoid

Be sure to wrap the cable very securely wherever it crosses over or near a metal edge - I used bicycle inner tube, which made almost two complete layers, then taped it good with electrical tape and melted the ends down. This shielding is still in good condition two years later. I think there were two spots - in the quarter window area and leaving the kick panel - that needed this protection.

Oh, and use appropriate cable - I think it's 3 gauge, lots bigger than even quality replacement battery cable. You'll need the extra wire to carry the current that far.

The problem with this is that you're putting the battery in proximity to the fragile fuel tank... bad enough that the tank is essentially open to the passenger compartment, but adding an electric igniter is worse. :p Look into tank armor of some sort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah. I do want to do up a system and free up a little space in the front. But I figure 40 pounds moved equals a total differance of 80 LBs. hehe
 

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Yeah. I do want to do up a system and free up a little space in the front. But I figure 40 pounds moved equals a total differance of 80 LBs. hehe
I'm too lazy to do the math, but subtracting 40 from the front, and adding 40 lbs to the rear will change the center of grav more than most people realize. Remember also that the battery is in forward of the front wheel.
 

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Probably the best cable you could use , would be Arc Welding cable ! It's designed to carry very high amp loads , and the outer covering is really tough .
 

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Joe,

When we relocated the battery on our '66 we also moved the solenoid to the trunk area. We mounted the battery on the passenger side of the trunk, ran a one guage cable through the bottom of the trunk and inside the rails, as Shelby did, to the starter. This side of the circuit is only energized when starting the car. Next we ran an 8 guage wire from the power side of the solonoid to a distribution buse located in the engine bay where the solonoid was originally located. We then ran 2 12 guage wires from the ingnition posts of the soloniod to the engine bay and connected them to the exsisting under hood loom. We routed all three wires as mentioned above. The channel accomodates these three wire well. We also an 8 guage wire from the battery side of the altenator directly the the distribution buss replacing the 12 guage stock wire, per information we obtained from MAD Enterprises. The web site has a lot of great information; madelectrical.com. While we did use a tank armor plate we also ran a vent tube from the battery box through the bottom of the trunk. Worked for us.

Pat
 

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Summit sell a whole kit for this, including the plastic battery box.
IF you are going to run at an NHRA track, you will need to install a power kill switch that also cuts off the ignition.
AND, they will also want a metal (20 ga minimum) metal barrier between the trunk and the rear seat.
Don't forget to ventilate the battery box to outside the trunk.
 

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I bought a kit from Summit Racing years ago to relocate the battery.
I definitely think its a good mod for a non-stock Mustang as it improves weight distribution and makes for a cleaner engine bay.
 

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I used the Summit/Taylor 2gauge kit...I used blue Goodyear heater hose slipped over the wire in places where I thought the wire would need protection...I used a 20 guage barrier between the trunk and passenger compartment...I didn't do the trunk solenoid originally but I've got the car apart for some wiring now, and I'm doing it. You still need to have a fat wire from the alternator to the battery...but that can be fused. I'm using 8 guage for that.
 
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