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Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon..

As a gentle reminder here are my specs...

351w (.30 bore/balance/line homed/etc), World Heads (ported/roller rockers), c4 tranny w/ tci 2.5 stall/servro/works, 4.11 posi rear, 15" rims, 650 carb vam sec 4bbl, edelbroc perf rpm intake, original dizzy, hedman headers and an open exhaust (glasspacks only).

Here are my cam specs..

http://www.camhelp.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=35-238-3

Problem:

Car wont light up. I can bairly get the wheels to turn from 0. I am unsure of how to go about tuning the engine now that I have everything I want. I plan on getting a nice dizzy but am unsure what to get. What will work well for my application?

I have new plugs and 8mm MSD wires new out of the box. I have FINALLY gotten the car ready to be driven but I know it should be performing 20x better. Of course this is of the highest urgency because I'm going to the quarter mile track on Aug 28th in Minneapolis. What have other people with a similar setup gotten on the 1/4 track?
 

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I'm running the same cam specs in my 302 and don't have any trouble breakin' loose. Even chirps the tires hitting 2 & 3 with my C-4.

My best advice is to have a chassis dyno tune. If that isn't feasible, there are tuning tips aplenty here on the VMF.

Your 650 carb is plenty. I'd be looking for a timing problem first if you are lacking performance. Other than not being able to make some smoke, what are the other symtoms? Misses, low top end, stutters, surges, etc.?
 
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I haven't done a ton w/ the timing as I am really unsure how to do it.

Every now and then I get a sputter when reving the engine. The lowend just doesn't want to work, almost like it's bogged. Once I get moving a bit and then I can feel her.

The timing is set to 0 degrees on the harmonic balancer and the idle RPM is real low (700-800).

Where is the first spot to start?!
 
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That's the goal /forums/images/icons/smile.gif.

I knew going into this I would need larger tires. Still haven't decided what rims/tires to get for this setup yet.
 

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I'm thinking timing is an issue, if initial timing is now set at 0. I don't remember what the manual setting value for the car should be, but try connecting a vacuum guage to one of the full time ports, disconect and plug any vacuum advances, and rotate the distributor until you get peak vacuum. This will also pretty much give peak idle. This does a decent job of setting base timing. I usually like to put a timing lighton the car at this point, to record at what markings the timing was set.
Be careful setting the timing per the harmonic balancer, as the inner and outer shells can shift, resulting in tdc not really being tdc.
Be careful afterwords to keep an ear out for the engine knocking. Too much advance can cause the engine to knock, in which case you should back off the timing a bit (a smaller number of degress btdc for your initial setting.)
Hope this gets you started.

Carl
 

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As mentioned before, I would start with the timing and carburetor. I can burn the tires all the way through 1st gear with my 331 and C4, get 1-2 chirp, and on a good time, 2-3 chirp. I can also do a pretty hefty burnout starting in 2nd gear and hitting the gas. I have 3.55's in the back and a 2400 rpm stall. I am runnin about 16 or so initial timing with a total of 38, and the vacuum advance is disconnected. I have an original dist with pertronix conversion. Is your converter working properly? Have you power braked it at all to see what happens?

Dave
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I can get the converter to go a bunch. I am not sure where it's stalling out because I dont have a tach.

I just knew something was wrong because my fathers 351c smokes all the tires with a stock setup an 3.50 gears.
 

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start timing at 10* inital. advance 2* at a time untill you start to ping. Go out put in 2nd excallerate hard. do this untill it starts to knock, then back it off 2* you have hit best timing right there. You may have to reajust your idle mixture and curb idle after you do this, becuse you idle will raise with advancing the timing.
 

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Set your timing to TDC and disconnect the vacuum advance. Do this by removing the #1 plug and advancing the engine till it is at the top of the compression stroke. The timing will not be optimal however it should also not be a problem. Set the Points with a feeler gauge ifyou have them, if you have electric ignition check that you have 12 volts to the unit and not 6.

Next if i'm totaly unsure of the carburator i turn the idle mixture screws al lthe way in (BUT NOT TIGHT!) then i open them up 2 full turns.

Then have somebody turn the key while i play with the thrrottle under the hood till i can get it started. Adjust up the idle adjust till it will stay running. and let the car warm up 5 minutes. Check the choke that it starts out closed and opens over the 5 minutes. Remember you need to rev the enving now and then to allow the choke to back down.

Hopefully the engine has run for 5 minutes. Get a can of carburetor cleaner and spray around the base of the carburetor and along the intake manifold. Also check that all the vacuum lines are connectered.

Look inside the carburetor and make sure the accelerator pumps are squirting rhen you rev the carburetor.

Try reving the engine and see how your doing. Use a timing light to set the timing. Stick with the stock specification for now. You also want to check the dwell if you have a meter

If by this point your still not running, do a compression test of the engine to make sure the valves are all adjsuted correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
10 degree huh? How do you arrive at this number? What do I get out of the engine by adv/retarding and why do I want to be at such a high adv?

What if I switch to 102 octane fuel? Will I need to retime?
 
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