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I wonder if a Barra would even fit height wise. With it being a DOHC, it's gonna be way taller than a 170/200. The only thing I could find on it's height was from this post where the guy measured his engine and it came back at 680mm (26.7 inches).

I seem to remember a few years ago reading a post about a guy that wanted to swap in a 300 and everyone was saying it was too tall to fit. The deck height of the 300 is 10" where the 250 is 9.46" and the 200 is 7.8". If a 300 won't fit, I'd have to question if a Barra would fit. Not to mention the cost of getting one over here and all the headaches that go with doing a swap on an engine where no swap kits exist.
actually a 300 WILL fit the early falcon and mustang engine compartments, barely but it does fit.
 

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1967 Mustang coupe
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start here:
 

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1964.5 Mustang I6 170 C4 Transmisson
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Ok, I’ll bite... how?

Knowing that just a decent top end for a six is $2-$3k, plus turbo and the fabbing it takes to install, header, etc.

I’ve got a roller 306 with forged pistons, aluminum heads, TFS cam, fancy roller rockers, headers, Holley etc. and spent less than $3k. I did some horse trading to do so, but it was easy and no amount of batgain hunting is going to land you with one of those exotic six banger heads.
That is rather expensive for a small part.
 

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1964.5 Mustang I6 170 C4 Transmisson
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
start here:
This now what I am talking about
 

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1964.5 Mustang I6 170 C4 Transmisson
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
The Barra idea is really cool, but those things don’t exactly grow on trees around here, and there’s some complexity to it from an engine management standpoint. Couple that with the fact that it’s big and heavy, plus cost, and like a turbo 200/250, you’re in the same position where you have to be in it for the wow factor and budget has to be way down on the list of priorities.

Nothing wrong with that approach, but I feel it should be noted in those terms.
Its rare here
 

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1964.5 Mustang I6 170 C4 Transmisson
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
The U.S. six was always a low cost economy engine.

Ive owned 200s and a couple 250s.

My advice is to mill the head to bump compression, get rid of the SCV and LOM, double roller timing chain, degree the cam, have the distributor recurved, headers and exhaust. If you want more power than what that will do, go with a V8. Its just not cost effective. Most sixes came with 2.80 or 3.00 gears. A bump to 3.20s will do more for you than anything. I just hauled a 4 lug 7.5 rear end to scrap with 3.20s. I couldnt give it away, it even had new brakes.

A well tuned six with a 3 speed and 3.20s is pretty zippy and fun to drive. the key with the six is keep the weight down. Dont add a bunch of weight: fog lights, dual exhaust, insanely big wheels and tires, AC, PS, console ect. People load up these cars with weight, then complain they are dogs.

A 5 speed and a Fox rear end with 3.55s would be more fun.
I would need a foxbody to use for parts, I have been having trouble finding some.
 

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Just a little forum tip... There's a multi quote function so you can reply to everyone in a single post instead of multiple posts in a row. It's even easier to use than ever.
 

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I don’t doubt that power potential. It’s the budget that gets me.
Only one of those mentions pricing and it’s up over $4k on the conservative side without even considering an Aussie or custom head.
i agee that it isnt cheap to run the aluminum head from vintageinlines, especially when you consider that a pair oif aluminum heads for a small block ford are around $1200. but remember that there isnt a great deal of demand for an aluminum small six head, so production is very low, perhaps 100 units at a time, and they can take time to sell off.

I would need a foxbody to use for parts, I have been having trouble finding some.
fox bodies are all over the place. and if you want the rear end, then look at rangers and explorers as well.
 

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If you are truly considering turbocharging the I6(of whichever size) I highly suggest reading "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. There is a chapter that deals with turbocharging carbed engines...it even tells you how to modify a carb for a blow-through application. To be clear, turbocharging a carbed engine has its limits...I doubt you will be able to run more than 10-12psi before the carb hat you use will inevitably start leaking boost...and even that much, intercooling would be critical. I don't consider engines with the intake and exhaust on the same side of the head to be great candidates for turbocharging myself...the exhaust manifold will reach temps of 1400+ degrees...and that will inevitably bleed over to the intake manifold, raising intake air temps significantly even after intercooling.
 

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If you are truly considering turbocharging the I6(of whichever size) I highly suggest reading "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. There is a chapter that deals with turbocharging carbed engines...it even tells you how to modify a carb for a blow-through application. To be clear, turbocharging a carbed engine has its limits...I doubt you will be able to run more than 10-12psi before the carb hat you use will inevitably start leaking boost...and even that much, intercooling would be critical. I don't consider engines with the intake and exhaust on the same side of the head to be great candidates for turbocharging myself...the exhaust manifold will reach temps of 1400+ degrees...and that will inevitably bleed over to the intake manifold, raising intake air temps significantly even after intercooling.
well there are enough innovations these days that prevent that 1400 degrees from migrating to the intake side of things, so heat isnt a real issue these days as it can be mitigated.
 

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Timely stuff. I haven't been on here for a while, but I have a few older posts on a 200 that I built with the CI head and a Fitech. The motor made ~215 hp and ~230 tq at the crank NA. I'm working right now to turbo the motor using a Fitech PA system, this time controlling the timing as well. My plan is to max out at 7.5 lbs of boost; it'll be intercooled, and I have a methanol injection system on hand as well. This is my first time turboing a car, so the learning is the fun part. I definitely have some fabrication challenges ahead, but hey, it's part of doing something different.
 

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This is a 300, not a 170. However, 300’s are cheap, plentiful, and tough as nails. Seven bolt mains. If you want to do one, do a 300. I’m trying a draw through setup a la Ak Miller. Good luck!
Don't do a draw-through...there are literally zero advantages aside from fewer carb mods needed and quite a few disadvantages(IE, no way to intercool a draw through setup effectively). Maximum Boost has a great chapter on turbocharging a carbed engine...definitely worth a read for anyone considering it.
 

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The "kit" to start the Barra swap is just the first piece of the puzzle. It's pretty similar to a Coyote swap in difficulty and cost, except you get to keep the shock towers (if you have some expensive manifolds to avoid them). Turbocharging a vintage 6 is a cakewalk by comparison.
 
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