Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I apologize in advance for what are two very basic (dumb) questions:

1. I'm doing the arning/shelby mod on my son's '70 mustang and am considering not putting the rubber isolator back in on the top of the spring. We were wanting a 1" drop in the front suspension and I figure with the arning mod and removing the isolator we will be at about 3/4". Any issues in not reusing that isolator? I know on late-model mustangs I've ditched those without consequence (other than a slight lowering).

2. On the passenger side of the car, in the front fenderwell there is something that looks like a small canister - what is it?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,184 Posts
The can is a vac source for the heater/def acc inside.
Removing the rubber off the spring tops may cause squeeking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
Consider a "thin" rubber isolater if you can find one. Some of the Mustang parts places sell two thicknesses of them. If not, you'll have quite a noisy front spring.

Maybe cut a little bit of coil? 1/4'' might be plenty to achieve the drop you are looking for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,138 Posts
No bushing will result in a loud knocking noise from the front end. If you do cut out half a coil, use a sawsall. Heat on the springs from a torch is really not a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
Definitely do NOT remove the rubber isolator. The arning drop will lower the car slightly. If you want more cut the spring down mechanically, with a cut-off tool, or a sawsall. Make sure you cut off the bottom of the spring, not the top where the isolator is. And do NOT use a torch to cut off the spring. If you are uncomfortable cutting the spring, just buy a new set of lowering springs. They are way cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
962 Posts
No such thing as "dumb" questions, Brian, better to eat your ego and ask than to have issues after!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No such thing as "dumb" questions, Brian, better to eat your ego and ask than to have issues after!
True, I'm sure once I got the springs back in without the isolator I would have figured it out, but it's far better since the wheels are still off and its on jackstands to know now. Thanks to everyone for the replies.

The arning/shelby mod has been pretty straight forward but I did underestimate the thickness and hardness of the steel so the holes took a little longer than I'd thought to make. Have one side done completely now. We're anxious to drive his car with the arning mod and the new shocks. I'm pretty sure the shocks were original so it should ride much, much better. Now if we could just get rid of the snow around here. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,126 Posts
Small passenger side(in wheelwell) canister is a vacuum can for AC. It may also be used for a tilt wheel. I know it is used for AC in my 70.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,881 Posts
The factory style insulator is maybe 1/8" thick. If yours is thicker than that, it's not original and should be replaced anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Update. Got the arning mod done, cut a little over a 1/4 coil off the front springs, installed new isolators and the new shocks. With the 17" wheels it sits about as low as it can without rubbing. I was surprised that it lowered it that much.

Unfortunately I took it to get aligned using the specs for the arning mod for a '70 mustang and they said they couldn't get it to those specs. They said the camber and castor could not be achieved but that the camber was off more than the castor. Does this mean that we need the negative wedge kit? Any other suggestions? It's possible that the shop just didn't know what they were doing, but assuming they did know, I'd like suggestions on what to do next.

Thanks - Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,881 Posts
The negative wedge kit has zero effect on alignment. It prevents binding of the upper ball if you go more than 1" on the holes.

Do you have an export brace? And I don't mean the cheap one, I mean the thick, deeply stamped reproduction. A Monte Carlo bar would be nice, if it clears the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
I forget who has them but I think many places sell extra thick coil spring isolators which will raise it back up some and maybe correct the geometry.. But I havnt read anybody saying they needed to do that before.

I unknowingly had a slightly bent shock tower on mine which made it next to impossible to align until I had it fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
Update. Got the arning mod done, cut a little over a 1/4 coil off the front springs, installed new isolators and the new shocks. With the 17" wheels it sits about as low as it can without rubbing. I was surprised that it lowered it that much.

Unfortunately I took it to get aligned using the specs for the arning mod for a '70 mustang and they said they couldn't get it to those specs. They said the camber and castor could not be achieved but that the camber was off more than the castor. Does this mean that we need the negative wedge kit? Any other suggestions? It's possible that the shop just didn't know what they were doing, but assuming they did know, I'd like suggestions on what to do next.

Thanks - Brian
Brian,
Can you post the alignment specs you were seeking and those achieved.
As mentioned by 22GT, install a Monte bar to insure a structurely sound shock tower relationship.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
If it has too much neg. camber (which is typical when you drop the mounting points of the upper control arm) you can always put shims in between the upper control arm and the body where it mounts to. You are limited to a relative thin shim because the bolts do not have a lot of extra length to them. I would suggest that you put the same thichness of shims on both bolts of the upper control arm and on both sides. Don't worry about caster because it can be adjusted with the strut rods. How close can they get the camber?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The negative wedge kit has zero effect on alignment. It prevents binding of the upper ball if you go more than 1" on the holes.

Do you have an export brace? And I don't mean the cheap one, I mean the thick, deeply stamped reproduction. A Monte Carlo bar would be nice, if it clears the engine.
No I don't but that was next on my list to buy. Right now it just has the factory bar which I understand doesn't do much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Brian,
Can you post the alignment specs you were seeking and those achieved.
As mentioned by 22GT, install a Monte bar to insure a structurely sound shock tower relationship.
The specs were the ones I found here:

DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70

I will follow-up with the shop and ask them what specs they were actually able to get it to as they didn't give me those specifics. They didn't charge me because they couldn't get it aligned and simply said there wasn't enough adjustment to allow it to get to the specs I provided them.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top