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I would prefer all my stock dash gauges work, but want a more reliable oil pressure readout. Can I drill/tap another hole in my sending unit extension to run an actual pressure gauge off of, or would that cause issues (having the stock unit at the end of the extension and the aftermarket gauge fed just before it)?
 

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Absolutely. I did just that for a gauge sender and an idiot light sender.
 

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Sure . Or simply add a brass "T" fitting . Both gauges will still function correctly. Same for an idiot light.
 

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I'm using the same "T" fitting on my 67 Cougar and 70 GMC. They work great and give you a lot more confidence on what your oil pressure system is doing.
 

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Unless you have access to a proper machine shop I would recommend adding a T fitting vs drilling and tapping into the side of the stock extension.
 

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I drilled and tapped my sending unit extension with another 1/8" NPT threaded hole. I installed a fitting for tubing for a mechanical gauge in that hole and a switch for a Low Pressure Warning Light in the original hole.
 

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I drilled and tapped my stock extension for an aftermarket pressure gauge. It's very easy and I think it has a cleaner look than adding a tee.
Agreed, anyone who can drill a hole straight should be able to tap the extension when it's out and in a vice. IIRC one of the Mustang vendors sells an extension with an additional hole already tapped ?
 

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I'm not a fan of the "Tee". I like the nice and clean look of an extension that is drilled and tapped for the second sender already. Nearly impossible to find these days but in the 1980's Ford had exactly those on some F350 and F250 trucks. That's where mine came from. I use mine for an oil pressure warning light and an oil gauge. I thought I saw someone post where Scott Drake was selling reproductions of those double drilled extensions. Am I mistaken?
 

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I drilled and tapped mine, piece of cake. My VDO sender for the new gauge was too big to fit comfortably between the block and fitting to get a tight enough seal so it leaked a bit. Tightened all the way it’s just enough so it doesn’t fit. I’ll mount the VDO remotely one of these days. Haven’t got around to it just yet. On the race cars we remote mounted them so they didn’t vibrate off the block.
 

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If you want to be REALLY anal-retentive about the "clean" look then tap one of your rear galley plugs and install a shallow 90* elbow, to clear the flywheel/flexplate, drill a hole in the top of the block flange behind the intake valley rail and tap it 5/16-20. Run a compression/NPT bulkhead union through the hole, secure with jamb nuts, use 1/8 copper on the "inside" and have a "sender ready" port on the outside.
 

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Not sure if this is the right size you need but there are dual port extensions available from the usual suspects:

When I was running two gauges I just cobbled together a pile of ugly fittings from the hardware store. This looks way nicer.
 

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If you want to be REALLY anal-retentive about the "clean" look then tap one of your rear galley plugs and....
Good lord. What a lot of trouble for no sensible gain. Silly. Absurd even.




And now that it is in my head I totally have to think up some reason to justify trying it. See what you did?
 

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Good lord. What a lot of trouble for no sensible gain. Silly. Absurd even.




And now that it is in my head I totally have to think up some reason to justify trying it. See what you did?
Easier than replacing the block with a late one that already has the oil port there to begin with. LOL.
 

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Wait, what? You mean like my F4TE aimed at the '69? I haven't even looked at that. Will do now.
 

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If you tap the sender extension log, be sure and use a bottoming tap to insure the threads go all the way to the bottom of the hole.
 
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