Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,775 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully this weekend I will start the removal preperation of the blown 302 in my daughter's coupe. If I'm uncertain about the condition of the c4, should I simply drop it first (with plans to have it inspected) since the driveline is current disconnected and then remove the engine? or keep it in place and remove the engine first? No matter what I do where does it break? between bellhousing and block? In addition, the heads are not attached to the block so where are the best spots to connected the hoist chains at?

Sorry for so many elementary questions. I'll get through this one way or another.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
I pulled my engine & tranny (c4) as one unit. It was easy to disconnect the two after they were out. Unless you have a tranny jack I think its easier this way, since you are planning to pull the trans in any case. Yes, disconnect by undoing the 6 (5 for older block) bolts connecting the bellhousing from the block. I had a engine plate that went on the intake..., I would guess you could use opposing head bolts. Oh if you pull the engine & trans as one unit, make sure you plug the end of the tranny and it helps to have the car as high as possible (on jackstands for ground clearance).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,417 Posts
where are the best spots to connected the hoist chains at?
I like to use opposite corner bolt holes. Find a couple of larger threaded holes and bolt it to them.

Whatever you do, be careful! these things are quite heavy and if it falls somethings (someones) going to get hurt. :(

I had one slip on my hoist chain once, things happen in a hurry ::
Luckily nothing more happened than a toxic waste spill when it tipped over my drain pan :p
I`m much more careful after that ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
I've only ever pulled the engine and tranny together but I've done it on brit cars, italian and american. Just seems easier that way and the american bays are so big it isn't usually a problem.
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
Pull them as a single unit. Use 2 head bolt holes on opposite corners to attach your hoist to. Using the leveler like Art mentioned really makes the job easier.

One of the best ways I've found to seal the rear of the tranny is to take a sandwich baggy and put over the end, the put a wire tie around the end of the tail shaft housing and pull it tight. I've tried using the "transmission plugs" and they are total waist of time (most of the waisted time is in cleaning up the tranny fluid when the plug pops out).

Remove the 4 torque converter stud nuts (have to remove the inspection plate to get to them) before removing the 6 (or 5 on an early engine) tranny bolts when you got to seperate them, but yes, you seperate the bell housing from the block to seperate them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Sometimes I'm amazed that it's the really simple things that I learn. For instance, I've never plugged or baggied the tranny, and always just let it pour out onto the floor dry I had already laid out. You know, I think I'll try putting a baggy over it next time. :: I have, however, used the engine hoist load leveler every time after the first time I pulled an engine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,032 Posts
If you use an engine leveler (very effective tool..) put the crank handle to the rear of the car. The cherry picker blocks its use when elevated - just when you need it most. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,775 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I do have a tranny jack if that persuades you folks to change your recommendation, otherwise you guys have convinced me to yank everything at once which I assume all will go back together before installation. I assume raising the car way up is to help make clearance for the tranny's tail when the assembly starts to tip nose up and tail down. Will normal jack heights work ok? Best locations for the jacks? Is the front of the car normally raised higher than the rear? Do you pull any of the sheet metal (grill, etc) in front off to make more room? Finally once pulled I assume I can lay the assembly down on it's belly maybe on blocks to start the seperation process.

Just realized that in order to seperate the housing from the block, don't you need to turn the crank a little to have access to some bolts? Should this be done first while the engine is still in the car? Otherwise, isn't it a bear to turn the crank when the engine is out of the car?

Happy Friday to all.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,417 Posts
You should be able to seperate it with just the tranny to block bolts. The TC and drive palte will stay on the motor.

P.S. do you have a motor stand ready?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,775 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Since I am planning to take the block right to a shop, what do I need a engine stand for? Remember the intake manifold and heads are already off. I assume though that it would be nice to have one while I'm assembly the other parts back onto the new block. Sorry if I'm sounding too naive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,775 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Since the intake manifold and heads are already off of the block, I was going to simply seperate the tranny/housing from the block and immediately take the block in. In this particular case, I assume that the motor stand is good just to assemble the various parts back onto the new block after it arrives back home instead of doing it with the block in the car. But before the block goes back in I assume that I would need to remove the block from the stand in order to reconnect the tranny to the block.

So much to relearn but it's good for that last remaining brain cel.

Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,417 Posts
I didn`t know it was going straight to the shop.
I sometimes use an old mounted tire to hold a motor. put the bottom of the oil pan into the middle, it`s surprising how well it holds one. ;)
And yes they are necessary for re-assembly :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
Hmmm, I'd still be tempted to pull as one unit. Yep the clearance was for the tranny tail, I just used 4 regular jackstands (front rails & rear axles). Removed the rad & hood. Yes, you normally need to turn the engine to remove the convertor (sometimes a thin wrench will work after you remove the bellhousing). But you should be able to crank it over by hand fairly easily since the heads are off. I left the unit on the cherry picker with the tranny resting on the bench and then removed the bellhousing bolts. With engine still supported by the cherry picker It was simple to pull the block from the tranny.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top